jbob

hey y'all, big time thanks for the previous thread i was involved in that totally helped me do the clutch master/slave/line replacement. good tips and the motive was freaking awesome.

no drips, and the car drives and shifts now. thing is i have like 4 inches of play on the pedal pushing in before i can tell it engages. i am hoping thats just adjusting the clevis? i won't have time for a couple days to get in and play around - my fear of course is i screwed up somehow.

thx again. great resource and people here

audi49

Check the diagrams in the links below. These adjustments worked for me (spring tension, 0.5mm clearance...). 4" of travel to adjust for is a lot... not sure if there's another issue in your case?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...al-height.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...le-coming.html

dmjames

I've got the same basic situation on my car, though I haven't replaced the master/slave cylinders yet. But the seemingly huge amount of travel before getting to the release point on the clutch pedal is exactly what I'm looking at too... So is the engagement point supposed to be pretty far up on the pedal?

Chip Gregg

I have what I felt is way too much free play as well, was about to dig into the issue

Van

Probably your clutch disk is wearing thin. There's a way to check the "spec" by measure the location of the clutch fork in the bellhousing inspection hole.

Here's the pic:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploa...1336081897.png

944crazy

There could also be some air still in the system. I didn't use a pressure bleeder with mine, I bled mine using the two man system. However, this may still apply to you if your reservoir ran dry at any time during the bleeding process. This will mean there's air in your master cylinder, and when you push the clutch in you are just compressing air for the first 4 inches of travel.

I found that I needed to aggressively pump the peddle a couple times too get the air out, and then bled it a little more from there. You shouldn't have more than 5 - 10mm of play in your peddle. This is from there being around 0.5mm play before the master cylinder push rod hits the piston and starts pushing the fluid down into the slave to open the clutch.

This play is adjusted at the clevis, but you need to be certain that there's no air in the system first otherwise you won't be able to properly feel when the rod hits the piston. If you adjust the clevis too short, the peddle will travel further before the rod hits the piston (more play). If the clevis is too long, the rod will be pushing on the piston even when the peddle is all the way out. You will notice that your peddle vibrates when this is the case.

jbob

I'm going to start at the clevis since i just pressure bled mine, but wondering if i do need to bleed again.

if i do, is it best to have another person hold the pedal down while the pressure is on and i climb under and bleed and look for air bubbles? when i bled before it was a beautiful stream without bubbles at the end of bleeding with the motive.

dmjames

I checked the clutch thickness a few weeks ago when I put in a fresh batch of transmission fluid and it's just fine.

I occasionally have an issue where the clutch engagement point varies after being stuck at a light for a while and I leave the pedal in, so I'm guessing I either need to bleed the system or have a leak somewhere *and* need to bleed the system, so I guess that's next on the list! Needed to do a new round of brake fluid anyhow since I don't know how old it is anyway, so I guess that's as good a time to do it as any.