divil

Put the counter holding wrenches on from above. Then you can do it without removing the housing. If you have any trouble getting the wrench over the top, then first break the adapter loose using the big flare nut on it's own... then you'll be able to rotate the whole thing a little. That's how I did it. I definitely didn't remove the oil filter housing.

bonus12

That would have worked except the exhaust heat shield left absolutely no options from above, in attempting to get to my leaky hose. The nut was behind the heat shield, although you could see the nut through a space - but a wrench or other tool would not go through this space.

I had the adapter loose and rotating by hand, but could not counter the nut in that space.

If you could do it from above I wonder how.

divil

I think I reached up from below and carefully got the wrench in place by feel. Then IIRC I put the main one in place and carefully loaded it up until there was enough pressure on the counter wrench that it wouldn't go anywhere. It probably took me a few tries. IIRC the 2 lines enter the housing at right angles to each other - for one of them, the wrench braced against the body at the side of the engine bay, and the other one it was against the edge of the header shield (where the 2 halves are pinched together). I used the small "service wrenches" from Harbor Freight. They're very thin and have very short handles. I used a pipe over the handle of the main one (I think I had to flatten the pipe a little to get it to fit). Even then they were among the toughest nuts to break loose I've ever seen. Definitely took both hands, lying on my back.

For the ones near the oil cooler itself, there was nothing solid to brace against, and not enough room to use a pipe over each wrench. So I put the 2 wrenches on at a small angle to each other, then squeezed them together with the biggest channel lock pliers I could find. That took a few tries too because it kept slipping and everything would fall apart, but it eventually worked. The 5th fitting, which joins one of the rubber lines to the metal line I think - I never got that off. The guy in the hydraulics shop I brought them to did it, and he said it a tough one.

bonus12

That makes sense. I would need to use those two small wrenches and squeeze them together with a channel lock pliers I guess. Crazy enough to work.
I'll have to do the 5th fitting as you call it too. Hope mine is a little easier!

divil

I think that last one will be easy once you have the line off *if* you have a vice. I don't, but I think that's how the guy at the shop was able to do it. Once you have it held solidly in place, if the worst comes to the worst, you can just hammer on the wrench with a big old lump of wood. That will do it. For the others, there just isn't room under the car for that.

divil

Oh and I should add...you might be better off with these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Line-Wre...533888&vxp=mtr

They have way longer handles than the HF ones I used. That might have made it a lot easier.

bonus12

Much respect to you divil.
In thinking back, I had poor tools and limited time -- a bad combination. I'd like to look into your suggestion of tools.

s85b50

It seems the OEM cooler hose is no longer available for the lower part.

dlknight

Whatever you choose to use please don't use the push fit hose fittings as shown in Post #11 - https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...l#post12686346

I did the exact same and they lasted two miles before the combination of the oil pressure and heat blew them off of the fitting, I managed to replace one of the hoses with a genuine one from Porsche and new connector pieces.

lart951

What do you call push fit? If you are referring to the set of lines displayed on picture #1 both sets still working fine after thousands of miles, no leaks no complaints from the customers.

dlknight

Hey Lart - yes the barbed type fittings on reply #10 (got it wrong in my post), in the picture of the rubber hose there is nothing holding the hose apart from the barbs on the metal fitting? Here is some pictures of the failed "similar" hoses on my turbo. I believe the hose became too soft and pliable when it heated up with hot oil and led to the hose being blown from the fitting under pressure. I'm not doubting that "your" hoses are failure free but someone who comes to this thread and copies the design from the picture could end up with the same issue as me. So I'm warning anyone that does this of the potential outcome, I'd prefer AN fittings or better still crimped ends as per the factory hoses (like the first pictures you posted).

Anyway people are able to make their own choice but a failure of this hose could be catastrophic and ending with a very expensive engine rebuild.

Attachment 1337089

Attachment 1337090

Autobreza

I have a 951 oil cooler and hose setup, pressure tested, and available if anyone needs it.

s85b50

How much do you charge for those?