jbob

looking to do my slave cylinder at home with basic hydraulic jack and jackstands

been a while since i did anything here on my own, so have some basic questions

would i be best jacking up the car from the front or sides?

i have some basic tools, would i need anything more than basic wrenches and sockets? i dont yet have a torque wrench.

the install seems simple enough. havent looked yet - just seen the puddle and the clutch when from sticking at the bottom to all of a sudden the pedal being fully dead and going all the way to the bottom, am assuming its the actual slave cylinder. does that fail much more than the hose, or is there a good chance its the hose? i'll jack it up soon and see where the fluid runs.

bleeding is my main concern.

would mityvac be enough to allow me to bleed this properly?


the other issue with the bleeding is i keep reading to have the rear of the car higher than the front, wont that be hard when its jacked up in order to reach the bleeder nipple? would i be able to reach this with just the read jacked up?

SloMo228

I just did this job not too long ago... twice. Which is why I would recommend replacing the entire clutch system while you're at it. If your slave failed, your master is probably not far behind. And the rubber flex hose is also just as old. I can tell you from experience that it's extremely frustrating to get it all done and then notice a new leak, this time from the master. Also, along the same lines, I would not recommend attempting to rebuild the slave - just buy a new one and save the headache of finding a leak there too.

I was able to get access to the slave just jacking up the front driver's side. You don't need anything more than basic tools, just wrenches and sockets. Flex attachments may help but aren't strictly necessary. The job is straightforward but you don't have a lot of room to work in some spots.

I had a hell of a time bleeding my clutch. I tried manual bleeding, back-filling from the slave up, and using a vacuum bleeder. Nothing really worked until I ponied up for a Motive pressure bleeder. I wish I had just spent the cash up front. I didn't even need to have the rear end of the car lifted to get a good bleed with the Motive.

Tiger03447

Thanks, Slo-Mo..This job is on the horizon for me too..Was wondering about the pressure bleeder thingy..:>))

Jason @ Paragon Products

Probably wise advise to do the clutch slave and master at the same time with help from the Motive to bleed the system.

odonnell

Just did this yesterday, it's not so bad if you are ready for it. First, install the slave into the bellhousing.

Get these materials brand new: about 6 feet of 1/4" clear tube from hardware store (bring slave to make sure it fits on bleeder), an oil squirt can, a turkey baster, and of course DOT 4 fluid. Also make sure you have a way to adapt the clear tubing to the oil squirt can.

I went to harbor freight and got a baster-ish thing along with this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-fl...-can-1106.html

The 1/4" tubing I got (lowes) fits snugly over the end. 0.17" ID

Now get the fluid level in the reservoir to just barely higher than the clutch MC line and leave the filler cracked so air can get out. Fill the oil squirt can with new fluid.

Get under the car and attach the tubing to the bleeder, and open the bleeder half a turn. Attach the other end to the oil can, which you can have anywhere because you have 6 ft of tube. I found a good place was next to the driver side front fender so I can watch the reservoir level. Make sure to route the tubing in such a way that there it goes up and then back down to the slave, so air won't get sucked into the bleeder.

Now just pump the fluid into to the bleeder, be patient. Soon you will see a solid column going in. You can also see bubbles coming out in the reservoir. When you see the level getting high in the reservoir and/or the bubbles have stopped, close the bleeder.

This should get your pedal to return at least. After that, just do a normal 2-person bleed. In my case there were still a few more bubbles after the oil can method because the bleeder was dripping and allowing air in. However, it's not as bad as people make it out to be as long as you work smart.

snb13

I completely agree with SloMo on this. I had the same experience, except I didn't get the Motive bleeder. I got it bled ok, not perfect, knowing I had a full brake job coming up soon. Then I took it to a shop and had them bleed it. Someday I'll get the Motive bleeder. I tried the MityVac. Fail.

jbob

thanks for the good notes

which one is the good motive model # to work with the size of our reservoirs?

going to splurge a tiny bit.

the fluid is disgusting, planning on also bleeding the brakes. what would be the order of operations for bleeding? if i wanted to bleed brakes but also need to do the procedure of replacing the master/slave cyls. and the "clutch fluid hose"

last thing is wanting to do this right - i am looking to get master, slave and fluid hose ($31 bucks on pelican) - do i need the paper gasket and are there any other things i might want to order while i am buying stuff. kind of want to do this well and ideally only once.

thanks

jbob

does the motive require a 944 specific adapter? looks like a great tool

Tiger03447

Yepper..costs about 30.00 on Amazon for the super anodized trick Porsche bleeder cover....LOL! Guess I'll have to get one of those for my Ford as well..DANG! Broke again!

thomasmryan

ecs has the schwaben pressure bleeder that fits without an adapter for less than 50

snb13

I have the hose, brand new. $25 shipped. PM me if interested.

jbob

this the one that would work without adapter?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...leeder/ES3474/

jbob

is the paper gasket worth getting for the master cyl end?

any other extras that help this seal and last long? if i am doing new master/slave/hose will that cover most things that leak?

Jason @ Paragon Products

The Motive 0100 or "European" bleeder has the right fitting for all Porsche applications:

http://www.paragon-products.com/Moti...er_bleeder.htm

thomasmryan

replace the paper gasket if it is torn...if you don't order it, you will need it. if you do order it, you won't.... then when you do need I you wont be able to find it))lol get two. they're cheap.

that bleeder will work fine. I just like the schwaben tools...great value.

the clamps on the blue hose are special but there is no pressure there...do replace it.

the flex line is what failed on my car where it rubbed the booster. 25 bucks is a steal if that is the right part number that fits your car.

before you start, read this..it will lighten your mood. a certain word wont let me link but google flussig clutch Porsche 944 ...it is great and might save you a step