Anybody done this or know of a procedure? I have the FSM, but I sometimes find that procedures written by fellow listers are more valuable than the FSM. If anyone has done this, how difficult is it? I'll need the pressure relief valve alignment tool, right? Thanks.

 

If you are referring to the oil pump driven by the crankshaft you will need to drop the oil pan as it helps holds in the pump. The FSM shows how to rebuild the oil pump but I am not sure about Haynes. What is wrong with the pump you want to replace ?

 

The gasket on the pump is leaking oil, so I wanted to pull the pump to replace the gasket, not the pump.

 

Well you are going to have difficulty replacing the gasket as there isn't one. It's sealed with an anaerobic sealant. You can remove and reinstall the oil pump without pulling the oil pan but it takes patience and a little practice. I just did one about a month ago.

 

Do you mean the oil cooler housing on the side of the engine? That's where the OPRV is located and it does have a gasket. Not a hard job, but you have to get the OPRV installed right or it's a nightmare.

 

I thought I saw a gasket in the PET. I guess I was mistaken. Is it possible to add sealant without removing the pump? It's a very small leak.

 

You can try but it would be a one in a million if it seals. Most likely your going to have to call your buddies, buy some beer and go to town on it. If you choose to remove the pan you can do rod bearings as well. Either way you should reseal the entire front and replace belts and tensioners/rollers as needed.

I would try and do it without removing the pan first, worst that can happen is you end up not getting it sealed and have to remove the pan. It's a gamle I would take 10 out of 10 times..

 

I cleaned the area around the leak, started it up and got under to watch for the source. I'm not sure if it's coming from the oil cooler housing or the pump. Is there a clear separation between the two? The problem is that the engine is pretty fresh off a rebuild. I don't really need to do any seals, bearings etc., so I'd like to do as little dismantling as possible.

 

They are completely separate. The problem, as you know, is there is 10 pounds of **** in a five pound **** bag. You can't see a damn thing.

The pump is more likely I would guess do to the fact that there is no gasket. Someone had to spread the sealant by hand and that is probably the root of the failure.

No warranty on this??

 

Unfortunately not, but I'm a decent wrench (at least in my head), so I'll get it patched up one way or another. Just sucks to see such a nice shiny engine drip oil in the driveway.

 

Agreed. But like some of my customers say "if it ain't leaking then it ain't a Porsche". Sigh................

 

I've heard this about 911s, but not the 944 series. But maybe this is why the 944 line was not accepted as a "real Porsche".

 

Did the oil drive gear get replaced ? Sometimes the seal will wear a groove in it and if not replaced can leak. The pan doesn't't have to come out, just dropped enough to clear the oil pump lower edge.

 

Thanks guys. I'm planning on doing this over the winter months, as I just got the car back together and I'd like to enjoy it a little before tearing it apart again....perfection will drive me mad someday. Any suggestions on anerobic sealants? I was looking at the performance products catalog and saw that loctite makes an engine sealant. Will this work, or is there a better one out there?