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Tonight when I tried to get car started I got a good chance to check out what is happening and not only are injectors clicking but so was idle stabilizer valve. The dash lights had 2 extra handbrake lights come up that I had never seen. Normal one below seat belt sign(on left) with an arrow down but also one above it with an up arrow and one over on RHS.
When I left ign on for a while all the clicking stopped and the 2 extra handbrake warning lights went out too. This is a ROW car but I have never seen these warning lights before, and can confirm it is the injectors clicking with ign on pre crank. This makes absolutely no sense to me.
After I waited for it to settle down and clicking had stopped and warning lights dropped out, car would still not start. It has a brand new battery btw A new DME relay has been fitted too.
Well, all of this stuff is getting power from somewhere..how about a bad ignition switch? Strange that all this stuff would be up and clicking away if the switch was turned off..Might be worth a shot..perhaps you can remove the switch with all the cabling still attached and do some work with a meter..and find out how the power is getting there. The DME must be telling all these critters to do their "Thing" so it must be getting power from the switch..interesting...if it were intermittent, I'd think it might be a ground issue..just some thoughts
Cheers Tiger. I am at my whits end with this car, and running out of ideas but I'm am super deterined to get it sorted. I just wish the Buchanan's(Jet951) were closer, as they seem like the only ones down here who seem to know these cars inside and out
sounds like it may be time for a phone call or a visit to Buchanan's...perhaps with a trailer....How far away are they?Hopefully not somewhere in the Outback...might make a weekend of the trip with your sweetie.
Cheers Tiger. I am at my whits end with this car, and running out of ideas but I'm am super deterined to get it sorted. I just wish the Buchanan's(Jet951) were closer, as they seem like the only ones down here who seem to know these cars inside and out
Bruce while I am not suggesting you send your car interstate for a tune, if it really is giving so much grief it may be cheaper than you think to get your car up here. I remember getting cars up from Adelaide to Sydney for about $500, that may have been a backfill rate, but assume there would be some cheap rates Melb-Syd. Buchanans are about an hour from the airport, when done you could fly up on the Saturday morning on a discount flight and be back by midnight. I have paid $200 to get towed to them and am only 15 mins drive, so it might only be 3 or 4 times the price for an extra 1,000km.
Dear Cyber: Let me get this straight..all this stuff starts going mad when you insert the key into the switch, but you don't turn it at all? Is this correct? doesn't sound right.. if this is what is happening..sounds like a shorted switch to me. Perhaps if you pulled the switch and opened it up,or tried to clear it with some electronic cleaner, things might start going right. might be a crucial bit of corrosion in all the wrong places. BTW, check out the "cleaner" on a small piece of cloth first, it might attack the plastic. If it starts acting better, after this..replace the switch. hope this helps some.
Bruce while I am not suggesting you send your car interstate for a tune, if it really is giving so much grief it may be cheaper than you think to get your car up here. I remember getting cars up from Adelaide to Sydney for about $500, that may have been a backfill rate, but assume there would be some cheap rates Melb-Syd. Buchanans are about an hour from the airport, when done you could fly up on the Saturday morning on a discount flight and be back by midnight. I have paid $200 to get towed to them and am only 15 mins drive, so it might only be 3 or 4 times the price for an extra 1,000km.
Glen I am seriously considering it but funding it is only thing stopping me at this point. I have a mate who works in car transport so may have a word and see if feasable.
Originally Posted by Tiger03447
Dear Cyber: Let me get this straight..all this stuff starts going mad when you insert the key into the switch, but you don't turn it at all? Is this correct? doesn't sound right.. if this is what is happening..sounds like a shorted switch to me. Perhaps if you pulled the switch and opened it up,or tried to clear it with some electronic cleaner, things might start going right. might be a crucial bit of corrosion in all the wrong places. BTW, check out the "cleaner" on a small piece of cloth first, it might attack the plastic. If it starts acting better, after this..replace the switch. hope this helps some.
No putting the key in doesn't do anything, it is when I put ignition on(all lights come on, on dash, but before I turn it that last click to crank it over and start her.
These are the new warning ights I have when clicking occurs
on right is brake fluid, on left is brake pads. I hve never seen these lights before until clicking issue. After a while the clicking stops and these 2 warning lights turn off
I don't know about this on the Porsche cars, but it seems that the DME is going through a pre-start regime that it should have been going through all along. Seems that a portion of the computer suddenly "woke up" and started behaving "normally"?? Have you been driving on any rough roads or is there a water leak under the battery tray, that might have affected the DME? Perhaps someone with this model of 944 can be of help here. I'm not sure about the injector clicking prior to start, but the brake pads sensors and the other warning light would seem normal in a pre-start....good luck..seems I'm out of airspeed, altitude and ideas here..hope the trip to Buchanan's isn't too expensive. does the car start after all this and seem to run normally?
Have you opened up your DME yet and taken a look at it? I don't think there is any doubt, this must be a problem inside the DME. Look very close at both sides of both boards, looking for fine cracks in the solder on the back side, and burnt components on the top side. If you don't see anything obvious, I would recommend getting your hands on a good used DME to try. Even if you have to buy it and it turns out to not be the problem, you can still resell it and recoup most of the expense.
Have you opened up your DME yet and taken a look at it? I don't think there is any doubt, this must be a problem inside the DME. Look very close at both sides of both boards, looking for fine cracks in the solder on the back side, and burnt components on the top side. If you don't see anything obvious, I would recommend getting your hands on a good used DME to try. Even if you have to buy it and it turns out to not be the problem, you can still resell it and recoup most of the expense.
The DME is a brand new Rogue unit so am doubtful that is culprit and although I have a known good fully rebuilt unit, it isn't set up with 28pin mod to run Mtune chip. So swapping out dme isn't easy. I just had new turbo fitted so need to check engine grounds but the ppl who fitted turbo were going to redo grounds while they were in there
I have had some good news sort of. I found out that a mechanic who was working at a local Porsche centre has gone out on his own and is setting up his shop literally around the corner from my house. It is one street away.
He used to look after a turbo cup race car for many years and so knows our cars very well. I have had a chat with him and will be leaving car with him to get sorted.
I've been having this same problem with our '86 951. I found one of the reference sensor wires to be cracked, with all the metal strands exposed (the sensors are "new-ish"). I tried taping the three individual wires to make sure they weren't shorting against each other. This worked for a few days, then it wouldn't start again yesterday. I went out this morning moved the reference sensor wires around a bit and it started. While it was running, I moved the wire I had taped and it stalled. Repeated this, started again, played with wire, stumble, then stall.
I have ordered the Lindsey racing reference sensor replacement harness, which replaces the wiring from the sensors to the DME.
05-06-2015, 05:17 AM
