car dying
#1
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car dying
Was driving the S2 and suddenly whenever I gave it gas it would choke up. Then the car started dying, power steering gave out, etc. I pulled over and tried to start it. It would crank/spin over and eventually start then die immediately. If I let it sit for 5 minutes it'll start and run for a minute or two, then it would choke. If I try immediately after it dies then it'll barely start before dying. Swapped DME relays and it did the same thing. I towed it home (again). Today I jumped the relay. I put the wire in and immediately the fuel pump came on. I then put the key in and started it and it ran for a few minutes before dying again, though you could still hear the fuel pump. Grounds are all fine. Gonna check behind the rotor cap as well. Any ideas?
#2
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Normally when something dies or chokes when giving it gas, one of your components that measures vacuum or TPS angle are faulty. The computer is looking for an increase in voltage or signal and it's not there.
Check your TPS and barn door.
Check your TPS and barn door.
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It doesn't do it every time I give it gas though. When I start it after it sits I can rev it just fine. It'll just die at idle. The choking when I give it gas was just the beginning symptom.
#6
Check the wiring to the speed sensor on the back of the motor and to the hall effect sensor on the back of the Cam gear housing. The hall sensor can also come loose if the magnesium in the cam cover is deteriorating.
My S would die when the wiring for the hall effect got to hot from coming out of its support bracket and getting to close to the header.
My S would die when the wiring for the hall effect got to hot from coming out of its support bracket and getting to close to the header.
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Check the wiring to the speed sensor on the back of the motor and to the hall effect sensor on the back of the Cam gear housing. The hall sensor can also come loose if the magnesium in the cam cover is deteriorating. My S would die when the wiring for the hall effect got to hot from coming out of its support bracket and getting to close to the header.
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#9
Getting back to the sensor. Make sure the sensor connection at the firewall is not cracked or degraded. Mine just quit running one day due to that problem. Prior to that it was idling rough and hard to start. A friends car would not rev over 3000 RPM due to the same problem.
A fuel pressure gauge for the rail can be bought at Paragon or Lindsey.
A fuel pressure gauge for the rail can be bought at Paragon or Lindsey.
#11
i bet you is your alarm. i have the same issue with an 89 na and on my 87 S.
now, theres apparently two types of alarms for the late cars and one cant be bypassed by the clark's garage method. IF your alarm is the one with the key on the fender behind the door, try the method in clark's garage.
IF it doesn't, locate the alarm module, behind the DME computer, pull the power (small) plug and try starting and running it.
now, theres apparently two types of alarms for the late cars and one cant be bypassed by the clark's garage method. IF your alarm is the one with the key on the fender behind the door, try the method in clark's garage.
IF it doesn't, locate the alarm module, behind the DME computer, pull the power (small) plug and try starting and running it.
#12
I had a similar issue with my S2 a couple of years ago. After giving it >50% throttle (all the way up to WOT) the engine would sputter and the car would buck. After some searching I found out that the connector to the AFM, right in front of the engine, would sometimes come loose on the S2. It's a problem unique to that model. I pulled the connector from the AFM, cleaned the contacts and plugged it back in. Problem solved.
Hope yours is just as easy to fix.
Hope yours is just as easy to fix.
#13
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I had a similar issue with my S2 a couple of years ago. After giving it >50% throttle (all the way up to WOT) the engine would sputter and the car would buck. After some searching I found out that the connector to the AFM, right in front of the engine, would sometimes come loose on the S2. It's a problem unique to that model. I pulled the connector from the AFM, cleaned the contacts and plugged it back in. Problem solved. Hope yours is just as easy to fix.
I sure hope it's not the alarm
#14
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I had a similar issue with my S2 a couple of years ago. After giving it >50% throttle (all the way up to WOT) the engine would sputter and the car would buck. After some searching I found out that the connector to the AFM, right in front of the engine, would sometimes come loose on the S2. It's a problem unique to that model. I pulled the connector from the AFM, cleaned the contacts and plugged it back in. Problem solved.
Hope yours is just as easy to fix.
Hope yours is just as easy to fix.
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