Intruder196

I replaced my clutch slave cylinder late last week. I bled the cyclinder per Clarks garage. But the problem I'm having is the pedal wont return all the way to the top. I can drive the car normally but the pedal stays close to the floor. Its like the clutch assist spring is holding it down. I can manually pull the pedal up with my foot when driving. But this isnt a solution. Is there an adjustment I am missing?

veleno

Probably more bleeding is needed.

HICKS

Yeah, you still have air in the system. Best bleed is nose down, *** up, and use a motive power bleeder.

Van

Sometimes I've had bubbles trapped in the top rise of the line going from the master to the slave... Loosening the connection between the hard and flexible line can sometimes help. Also some vigorous pumping of the pedal can help get the air bubble down to the slave, where it can be bled out.

Intruder196

I'll try bleeding it again to see if I can get it to work normally.

FRporscheman

The method with which I've had the most success is to have a pressure bleeder hooked up at the tank while doing the 2-person pedal method. You can do it alone and just leave the bleed nipple on the slave open as you push the pedal up and down several times, just make sure you pull the pedal up slowly so you don't suck air back in through the bleed nipple.

Intruder196

I got a few more bubbles out of it and now the pedal works normally.

FRporscheman

Nice!

Cambo

I had the same issue when I replaced my master cylinder last summer. The method I used then and will use now as I just replaced my slave cylinder and line/ hose from the slave was from a video I saw on youtube.

stubble88

Did you fix this? If so how? Does the pedal act normal when the car is off? Mine doesn't return but only when car is running
I've replaced everything. Still same issue.

AgLiftPilot

Kind of confusing that it would only return when the car is running. You may have something else going on inside the clutch not related to the hydraulics. I would still think more bleeding is required first as the easiest option before getting into any other more costly troubleshooting. I recently installed all new components on a car and it took a surprising amount of bleeding iterations to get everything to work normally. Itll take forever for any change to start becoming apparent but eventually itll start to work as normal. A few more bleeds and itll be correct after that.

I used a motive pressure bleeder on the brake reservoir to help push the fluid through the clutch system. When the pedal sticks to the floor, open the bleeder until no air comes out then close. Pump the clutch a few times and bleed again. Keep going until you get the desired result. It takes quite a few iterations before the pedal will return on its own.

stubble88

Oops. Delete