Dead spot in new starter... any solution?
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have about 5000 miles on my starter, 2100 of them since the fire. Since I bought it several years ago, there is no chance I can return it.
Here's what it does:
-The solenoid will activate, but the starter will not turn
-All connections are clean and tight
-Brushes look fine
-Armature looks fine
There must be a spot on the armature that is a very poor conductor. I have tried whacking it with a hammer, and it does not help. If I drop it out of the bellhousing and spin it a little, it's fine after that. (unless it stops on the dead spot)
This has happened 3 times, once on the 1st crank of the rebuild from the fire, once at this last weekends GTG, and now trying to leave this morning. I was going to pull the starter this past weekend and try and find the problem, but I got side tracked and ran out of time.
So... what's the best method of attack? I have a date this evening and would like to take 951, but I sure as hell don't want to have my date help me pop start it when the starter craps out again. I was planning on taking the afternoon off to work on the car, so quick tips are appreciated.
Here's what it does:
-The solenoid will activate, but the starter will not turn
-All connections are clean and tight
-Brushes look fine
-Armature looks fine
There must be a spot on the armature that is a very poor conductor. I have tried whacking it with a hammer, and it does not help. If I drop it out of the bellhousing and spin it a little, it's fine after that. (unless it stops on the dead spot)
This has happened 3 times, once on the 1st crank of the rebuild from the fire, once at this last weekends GTG, and now trying to leave this morning. I was going to pull the starter this past weekend and try and find the problem, but I got side tracked and ran out of time.
So... what's the best method of attack? I have a date this evening and would like to take 951, but I sure as hell don't want to have my date help me pop start it when the starter craps out again. I was planning on taking the afternoon off to work on the car, so quick tips are appreciated.
#4
Instructor
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Lebanon, Ohio
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
or just tell me where you're gonna be and what time you'll need the car back and I'll make sure it doesn't stop running!!!!!!!
What time are you gonna be home today?
What time are you gonna be home today?
#5
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think Simpson has the right idea, park on a hill.
I could check and see what my voltage regulator supplier wants, or even carries, a new armature. Not that this will help you for your big date. Don't go banging on the housing with a hammer. There are permanent magnets attached to the housing body and if you crack one of those you are hosed: whole new starter time.
I could check and see what my voltage regulator supplier wants, or even carries, a new armature. Not that this will help you for your big date. Don't go banging on the housing with a hammer. There are permanent magnets attached to the housing body and if you crack one of those you are hosed: whole new starter time.
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So, when this happens, I guess you are dragging down the 12 volts across the battery to zero, right? I think this will eventually damage the battery.
This is exactly the problem I am having now. Starter will crank fine 20-30 times, then get "stuck". One very loud click, but the starter does not turn. I removed mine from the car, everything seems to be working. Then engine turns fine using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley.
I was thinking that the brush material needs to be cleaned out from inside the starter (the case is sealed otherwise).
If you get stuck on your date tonight, who will push the car to pop-start it? Could be a new test (like the unlocking of the doors in the movie "A Bronx Tale").
-Kevin
This is exactly the problem I am having now. Starter will crank fine 20-30 times, then get "stuck". One very loud click, but the starter does not turn. I removed mine from the car, everything seems to be working. Then engine turns fine using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley.
I was thinking that the brush material needs to be cleaned out from inside the starter (the case is sealed otherwise).
If you get stuck on your date tonight, who will push the car to pop-start it? Could be a new test (like the unlocking of the doors in the movie "A Bronx Tale").
-Kevin
#7
Instructor
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Try rolling the car a bit in gear. This will move the starter just as if you dropped it from the bell housing. You won't have to move it much, just a few feet at most. If 1st is really stiff you might have to put it in 2nd or 3rd, but it might have to be rolled farther to get off the dead spot in this case. You can then start it as usual. If there really is a dead spot on the starter this should work like a charm until the starter goes completely.
I've been told this works, but it might require holding the key down so the solenoid engages the starter.
If you park on a bit of a hill there will be no need for a pop start and you won't even have to get out of the drivers seat.
Good luck...
Jonathan
I've been told this works, but it might require holding the key down so the solenoid engages the starter.
If you park on a bit of a hill there will be no need for a pop start and you won't even have to get out of the drivers seat.
Good luck...
Jonathan
Trending Topics
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jason - Planning on being in the garage by 4:30... but we'll see about that. Date is at 7pm.. so it will be close.
Jonathan - Just rolling the car will not work, the starter would not be engaged. I could roll it while attempting to start it (engaging the solenoid and drive gear), and that might bump it off the dead spot.
Ice - Yeah, you don't want to hit the housing, but if you hit the mounting flange, it can knock it just enough to get it going. Let me know what you find for parts.
Kevin - Sounds like we have a similar problem. The solenoid is activating, so it is drawing some current, but far less than when the starter is operating. As long as you don't sit there holding the key in the start position, it should not damage the battery. I only drop to about 10 volts on cranking, 11ish when it flips out and will not roll over.
Sure.. parking on a hill is a no brainer, but what happens if there is no hill.. or no parking where I can get a good roll? Not a great option.
I guess all I can do is take the brush set out and rough up the armature with some emery cloth and try again.
Jonathan - Just rolling the car will not work, the starter would not be engaged. I could roll it while attempting to start it (engaging the solenoid and drive gear), and that might bump it off the dead spot.
Ice - Yeah, you don't want to hit the housing, but if you hit the mounting flange, it can knock it just enough to get it going. Let me know what you find for parts.
Kevin - Sounds like we have a similar problem. The solenoid is activating, so it is drawing some current, but far less than when the starter is operating. As long as you don't sit there holding the key in the start position, it should not damage the battery. I only drop to about 10 volts on cranking, 11ish when it flips out and will not roll over.
Sure.. parking on a hill is a no brainer, but what happens if there is no hill.. or no parking where I can get a good roll? Not a great option.
I guess all I can do is take the brush set out and rough up the armature with some emery cloth and try again.
#10
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Brian; when you have the arm out ,take an old hacksaw blade and grind a hook in it and draw it through the insulator slots where the copper is. These get plugged and will short the winding out .Also clean the brush area good .The brushes may be just hanging up or cocking.
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Let me crack this one open again and see what's up. You have done more than enough for me.
Pisses me off a new starter with 5000 miles is not working right...
Pisses me off a new starter with 5000 miles is not working right...
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
#15
Race Car
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Costa Mesa, California
Posts: 3,781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There is a large brass washer on the end of the solenoid plunger that contacts the back side of the connector post from the battery. This is what switches the battery directly to the starter motor.
You may be able to take the solenoid off and apart and polish this washer or even turn it around. Don't forget to clean the back side of the large brass bolt too.
You may be able to take the solenoid off and apart and polish this washer or even turn it around. Don't forget to clean the back side of the large brass bolt too.
Last edited by SoCal Driver; 09-03-2003 at 06:25 PM.