https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDe4...ature=youtu.be

It's always done this, someone told me I need "starter shim(s)", what's your opinion?

 

damn Mexicans.

 

Is the new starter a permanent magnet type? (smaller case) If so the kick-backs could be due to interference with the ref sensor. Do a search on here, been discussed before.

 

Hooked up a battery tester and battery was dead, how could that be? I take this for at least 30 mins on the highway every third day ...

 

When batteries die or plates get sulfated - they just die. Sometimes without warning.

 

What voltage is the alternator putting out? And how much current drain is on the battery when the car is off? Those are the most obvious causes of a dead battery, next to it just being bad from age or bad luck.

 

I forgot the exact output but it's over 100 amps. The battery gauge on the dash read fine (12 volts) and I'd driven it to work and back 4 days in a row. Then after it sat for two days straight in the below freezing temps, it seems to be dunski

 

Mysterious battery drains are a problem with these cars (and many others). Stereo, alarm, alternator diodes, glovebox light, hood light...

Once you have a good battery look for the current draw with the key off and tell us what it is (ammeter connecting the + or - battery post to the chassis harness).

 

no interior so most of those don't apply. the only thing i can think of is an after market water temp gauge that stays on all the time. do they make a snap-on/snap off battery terminals to prevent this?

 

You probably have an alternator, and who knows what is still wired in despite the interior delete. Yes there are ways to disconnect the battery remotely. Some are designed to maintain accessory power though and that might not solve your problem.

 

Since the battery is too new to have this issue I have to believe something is draining the battery when shut off, maybe it's the aftermarket water temp gauge that's on all the time. Regardless I'd like to know if there are battery leads that are either easily removable or have an on/off switch? This way I know nothing's draining the battery. I understand the battery will die after a long period of inactivity but I should be able to leave the car a few days without having a dead battery

 

Is your bellhousing notched for the S and R sensors?

 

I'll have to take a picture when I get back in town.



Assuming I get the battery recharged and the alternator passes the battery-tester test, upon reading these three items on starting in cold:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-dr...-in-winter.htm

my questions would be:

1. Does "Sometimes you will see people spray ether into their engines in cold weather to help them start" = put ether in the gas tank? not sure what spray means here.

2. Anyone have an oil recommendation on something that would flow better in the cold temps?

3. Any recommendations on a battery that can withstand the cold better. The Interstate I bought from the dealer can't seem to hold a charge since day 1

 

I wouldn't worry about the ether...the idea of that is to enrich the mixture but that's unnecessary because your car has cold start fuel enrichment.

Oil...I use 15W-50 seems to be a popular choice for cold weather.

Finally, batteries don't loose their charge because of the cold. If your battery is losing charge, it is probably for the reason already mentioned - something is draining it. Do you know if your battery is actually permanently dead, or just discharged?

Oh yeah, one more thing: I was in Harbor Freight today and I noticed they had not one but two types of battery disconnect switches on the shelf. I snapped a few pics which I'll post soon. I don't think it's what you need but since you asked...

 

Oh contrare' those switches are exactly what I need. This way I can stop whatever's draining the battery during shut down, thks