Well a long time without 944. Pics coming but 2 owner 1986 spent its life in Tucson and El Paso. Most service records. Off white ext chocolate brown interior that has had sheepskins on seats most of life.

Will do all usual service getting great service from Sunset Porsche


What's a source of phosphate free antifreeze. Used to have a VW/Audi source.

Chuck
83, 86, 87 944 now 1986

 

Pentosin NF, I get it at Napa.

 

I use distilled water (about $1/gal at the grocery store) and Peak Global Lifetime antifreeze, also found at NAPA and other places. Made in USA. I plan to change it every 5-8 years despite their "lifetime" claim. The reason for the "phosphate-free" requirement is so that it doesn't react with the minerals in tap water; use distilled water and that is not an issue.

http://www.peakauto.com/products/ant...full-strength/

Provides guaranteed LIFETIMETM protection - for as long as you own your vehicle - when a complete cooling system flush and fill is performed and specified maintenance followed
Formulated for use in all American, Asian and European automobiles
Features a patented non 2-EH formula that is phosphate-free and silicate-free
Can be used to top-off any color of automotive antifreeze including green, yellow, orange, fuschia, blue and red
Amber color will not change the current antifreeze color when used for topping off
Meets ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4340

 

According to a website that I read several years ago concerning antifreeze. It's because of the water that the Germans have over there. Their water, (leitungswasser) out of the faucet is unfit to drink and most Germans won't touch it..When they make their antifreeze, it is usually with distilled water...That's why most of the German car literature recommends only their antifreeze. We don't have their water problem in the U.S. so check your requirements and see what kind of antifreeze you want to run....Pentosin seems the best right now for the Porsche application...jus sayin..

 

Pentosin nf from advance online delivered....same in the mercedes....same in the subaru.

The flat 6 in the scooby would shake some on start up for years. The open block head gasket suffers in the early 2000 models by leaching the puke in the cylinders while sitting. Replaced the radiator a couple months ago and used the subaru coolant modifier. No more vibration during warm up. Might add some to the 3.0 when I swap the radiators. I have a 2oz per 1000 miles seam issue.

 

How can a modern nation like Germany tolerate tap water that is unsafe to drink?

 

I have been wanting to try evans for a little while now. It is waterless and has some very unique properties. Not the cheapest.

 

Their tap water is as good as any, you can drink it, no problem.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water...ion_in_Germany

I will go with Evans too. Cant beat 190C boiling point.

 

whatever's on the shelf at the auto store that says aluminum safe.
mix water if needed.

it's like any other fluid - don't over think it.
the 944 is like any other car, not designed to some ragged edge degree of perfection where the precise chemical makeup of your coolant will make or break the block.

 

+1, never an issue with any aluminum safe coolant. I do use distilled water though as I don't like the additives in tap water. You see those little hard white spots you find in some coolant galleries inside engines, that is calcium build up from tap water use. Might not harm anything but I don't like it being there so I use diststilled.

 

It is not that simple. Aluminum is not the only concern, copper, brass, type of plastic and type of rubber used is important too.

BMW coolant system will prematurely fail if you use red type of antifreeze that is common with VWs, instead it needs NF coolant which is blue in color.

Asian and french cars use yellow coolant..

Any of those types are not mixable and if used wrong will likely eat something, Red coolant in BMW certainly does cause premature failure, causing plastic water flanges to become brittle and break or leak.

Good thing with waterless coolants is that they do not boil - ever. That means no more steam vents and steam pocket related hot spots. It is definitely coolant of choice for turbo engines in my opinion.

 

From http://www.3si.org/forum/f11/dumping...-setup-206021/

Here's a mean tech article I ran acorss that made up my mind and worked to prove alot of things I had read: http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0011.html

Evans coolant is 100% propylene glycol...no water added. Cool thing is it doesn't boil until 360F. Thats great when you think about localized boiling around the cylinders causing hotspots with conventional...with Evans there's no way you're going to get hotspots in the combustion chamber that can possibly cause knock. Bad thing is propylene glycol's specific heat isn't all that great. That effectively makes your radiator act like its smaller than it really is. That also means that when your engine makes a fixed amount of heat the Evans coolant temps will rise more than water will. That's all fine and dandy when you remember that it won't boil until 360F...it has plenty of overhead. The bad thing is the fans run more often than they should since the stock computer thinks you're getting hotter than you should be. The other bad thing is your oil temps go up from the extra heat in the block so you need a nice big oil cooler to manage things. Granted Mobil 1 says its good for 400F but I know most road racers shut things down at 300F. Other negatives to the Evans coolant are the cost and the large expansion rate range of the fluid with temperature swings.

Plain water with Water Wetter (or a similar surfactant like purple ice or stay cool) keeps temps the lowest. Problem with it is a boiling and freezing protection. Water wetter doesn't do anything significant to the boiling or freezing point of plain water. The best protection for boil over is adding conventional antifreeze but that will increase your actual coolant temps. If you want to increase the boiling point while avoiding antifreeze you need to crank the system pressure as high as possible. The highest pressure cap I could find is the TRD at 1.5 kg/cm2 (21.75 psi) which will raise the boiling point to 262-263F. Of course with the high pressure comes the chance of busting hoses. Water Wetter does contain corrosion inhibitors but they don't hold up for too long. Redline recommends replenishing or replacing the Water Wetter every 15,000 miles.
http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm

Of interest is this computer water cooling review of Water Wetter:
http://www.bunkermentality.net/wetter.html
The guy tested different concentrations of Water Wetter and more than the recommended amount actually hurt the heat transfer abilities of the coolant. That means for the size of our cooling system we want to use somewhere between 6.6 and 8.7 oz of Water Wetter...no more and no less. You won't even need a whole 12 oz bottle if you want it to work at max capacity.

 

For Chuck's original question I have to join the "keep it simple" crowd here. Read the labels. For example, AutoZone has a house brand called AllMakes. It is phosphate free and aluminum safe. I use it in a broad range of vehicles mixed with Walmart distilled water, with a few exceptions of make and model. My experience with the 944 is that the distilled water makes a bigger difference than the brand of antifreeze.

 

@ Voit and others...FWIW..when I was in Frankfurt for 6 months, none of the Germans would touch the water..that was back in the early 90's..they must've cleaned up their act in the water dept..since then...good for them!Tiger 03447

 

G48 is the spec for the blue stuff that meets specification for pre 1995 Porches and other German cars. It's also known as G11 which is VW spec but I believe it's the same stuff. Not sure what availability of G48 is in the US, it's cheap and widely available here in the UK.