Timing Belt is fine, Balance is shot. won't turn over
#1
Cruisin'
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Timing Belt is fine, Balance is shot. won't turn over
First some baseline info:
1987 944S
128k miles
Well, my engine is locked up- ie will not turn over. I took off the timing belt, and it seems to be in great shape- almost new looking. The balance shaft belt on the other hand is worn, and off the bottom balancer shaft sprocket. I haven't looked at the timing chain yet either. I am thinking that perhaps the starter may have shorted or something. The engine will start to turn then come to a grinding halt. It quit very quietly one day, like it ran out of gas or something. Can the balance shafts cause this? Is there some electrical failsafe in-case I run out of gas? thanks
any help is appreciated
1987 944S
128k miles
Well, my engine is locked up- ie will not turn over. I took off the timing belt, and it seems to be in great shape- almost new looking. The balance shaft belt on the other hand is worn, and off the bottom balancer shaft sprocket. I haven't looked at the timing chain yet either. I am thinking that perhaps the starter may have shorted or something. The engine will start to turn then come to a grinding halt. It quit very quietly one day, like it ran out of gas or something. Can the balance shafts cause this? Is there some electrical failsafe in-case I run out of gas? thanks
any help is appreciated
#3
Race Car
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Pistons are hitting something. Possibly a broken valve head. Or it could be what is called hydro lock.
A leaking injector will fill the cylinder and the fuel will not compress. Pull the dipstick out and smell the end. If there is a strong gas smell pull the plugs and see if the engine can be rotated.
Note on the timing belt. The proper way to pull a timing belt is to lock the engine at TDC with a special toothed clamp at the flywheel. This is an interference engine and will bend the valves if the timing belt is off more than two teeth. With the "S" model there is a cam drive chain and tensioner under the valve cover. This fails and can either jam the works causing the timing belt to break or just drop the intake cam from the engine cycle. Either way this is very bad.
Tensioning the timing belt is critical too. If it's too loose the belt will slap and jump teeth. If too tight it will fail prematurely. If it's just right then you can get 30,000 out of it but most of us change it at 15,000 just to be safe.
A leaking injector will fill the cylinder and the fuel will not compress. Pull the dipstick out and smell the end. If there is a strong gas smell pull the plugs and see if the engine can be rotated.
Note on the timing belt. The proper way to pull a timing belt is to lock the engine at TDC with a special toothed clamp at the flywheel. This is an interference engine and will bend the valves if the timing belt is off more than two teeth. With the "S" model there is a cam drive chain and tensioner under the valve cover. This fails and can either jam the works causing the timing belt to break or just drop the intake cam from the engine cycle. Either way this is very bad.
Tensioning the timing belt is critical too. If it's too loose the belt will slap and jump teeth. If too tight it will fail prematurely. If it's just right then you can get 30,000 out of it but most of us change it at 15,000 just to be safe.
#4
You change yours at 15K? Holy crap! The last time I changed mine it had close to 50K on it.
I had understood that if your lose a balance shaft belt you can run into a contact issue as a result. Yea or nay?
I had understood that if your lose a balance shaft belt you can run into a contact issue as a result. Yea or nay?
#5
Race Director
Originally posted by Manning
You change yours at 15K? Holy crap! The last time I changed mine it had close to 50K on it.
I had understood that if your lose a balance shaft belt you can run into a contact issue as a result. Yea or nay?
You change yours at 15K? Holy crap! The last time I changed mine it had close to 50K on it.
I had understood that if your lose a balance shaft belt you can run into a contact issue as a result. Yea or nay?
Tifo
#6
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Sometimes the balance belt takes out the timing belt. Sometimes it doesn't.
I had my balance belt break and just wrap up in the bottom of the belt covers. Didn't take out the timing belt. Yes I replaced them anyway.
I think that 50,000 miles is driving on borrowed time.
Us early 944 drivers don't have any auto tensioner so we play it safe.
I had my balance belt break and just wrap up in the bottom of the belt covers. Didn't take out the timing belt. Yes I replaced them anyway.
I think that 50,000 miles is driving on borrowed time.
Us early 944 drivers don't have any auto tensioner so we play it safe.
#7
Drifting
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Originally posted by SoCal Driver
Tensioning the timing belt is critical too. If it's too loose the belt will slap and jump teeth. If too tight it will fail prematurely. If it's just right then you can get 30,000 out of it but most of us change it at 15,000 just to be safe.
Tensioning the timing belt is critical too. If it's too loose the belt will slap and jump teeth. If too tight it will fail prematurely. If it's just right then you can get 30,000 out of it but most of us change it at 15,000 just to be safe.
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#9
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On review the balance belt might have gone under the timing belt and caused it to jump teeth. Would have broken the timing belt if there was not an auto tensioner.
#11
Drifting
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Originally posted by SoCal Driver
Would have broken the timing belt if there was not an auto tensioner.
Would have broken the timing belt if there was not an auto tensioner.
Edit- Except you do still need a P9201 for the balance shaft belt.
#12
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You are saying that the spring tensioner does not keep spring pressure against the belt?
Hmm... Not having one in front of me I would think the idea of an auto tensioner is just that; to keep the belt tensioned. Guess I'll have to check the manuals.
Either way I bet his valves are more than likely toast along with a few valve seats.
Hmm... Not having one in front of me I would think the idea of an auto tensioner is just that; to keep the belt tensioned. Guess I'll have to check the manuals.
Either way I bet his valves are more than likely toast along with a few valve seats.
#13
Drifting
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Originally posted by SoCal Driver
Still the auto tensioner has a bit of movement till the compression spring bottoms out. This is not so with a tensioner that is tightened in place such as the early 944's.
Still the auto tensioner has a bit of movement till the compression spring bottoms out. This is not so with a tensioner that is tightened in place such as the early 944's.
#14
Drifting
Originally posted by Dave951M
Just for peace of mind, you should really replace it at 30k or yearly. It's cheaper than a broken one.
Just for peace of mind, you should really replace it at 30k or yearly. It's cheaper than a broken one.