Need Help Relocating The Battery
#1
Racer
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Need Help Relocating The Battery
Good Afternoon Team,
I need some input regarding the relocation of the battery. I purchased a battery relocation box from Summit Racing and have the ability to weld it in place. I would prefer to relocate it in the right rear wheel well. My question is where should I run the hot wire? Should it be outside of the car or inside. I hope that someone has done this already and can give me some pointer- areas to watch out for. I did the search thing and it turned nothing up. Thank-you in advance.
I need some input regarding the relocation of the battery. I purchased a battery relocation box from Summit Racing and have the ability to weld it in place. I would prefer to relocate it in the right rear wheel well. My question is where should I run the hot wire? Should it be outside of the car or inside. I hope that someone has done this already and can give me some pointer- areas to watch out for. I did the search thing and it turned nothing up. Thank-you in advance.
#4
Nordschleife Master
It has been done by several members. Being in Flordia you are not going to run into cold temps that will cause the starter to suck a huge current amount. Fuse it at the battery at around 250 amps, carry a 400 amp spare if you ever go to cold country, and run it through the inside in a sleeve under the carpet.
You can run it outside under the car but the odds of really cutting it in one fell swoop increase dramatically.
I don't think this is such a bright idea for a left hand drive car. The only reason this was done in factory cars was Porsche didn't have any other easy place to put the battery in right hand drives.
You can run it outside under the car but the odds of really cutting it in one fell swoop increase dramatically.
I don't think this is such a bright idea for a left hand drive car. The only reason this was done in factory cars was Porsche didn't have any other easy place to put the battery in right hand drives.
#5
Racer
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I sent my car to the body shop for a complete paint and to take care of the battery tray box. There was a rusted hole in the tray under the battery right above the computers. We spent seven years in the Boston/ New England area prior to moving to South Florida
I fixed that area twice with fiberglass (griding out the rust, treated the affected area, and then layering in the fiberglass) to only later to find water on the passenger's side floor (years later but hello) So, this time I sent Baby to a body shop for what I thought would be a final fix. They claimed to have wielded metal there but covered the box with some tar like material and now there is no way to tie the battery down. The manufacture's battery ties downs are gone. I want to end this issue once and for all in that I plan to own Baby until I die and be buried in it.
I fixed that area twice with fiberglass (griding out the rust, treated the affected area, and then layering in the fiberglass) to only later to find water on the passenger's side floor (years later but hello) So, this time I sent Baby to a body shop for what I thought would be a final fix. They claimed to have wielded metal there but covered the box with some tar like material and now there is no way to tie the battery down. The manufacture's battery ties downs are gone. I want to end this issue once and for all in that I plan to own Baby until I die and be buried in it.
Last edited by ewainwright; 08-21-2003 at 09:19 PM.
#6
Nordschleife Master
I feel the same about my Baby, also an '88 TS.
I'd get the front battery box rebuilt properly and get either a gell cell or dry cell battery that won't leak acid. This rebuild should include proper retaining points.
Though I think your real problem is never having the acid gone from the original leak occasion. Break out the baking soda! Though James R. probably has some even better chemicals to end this once and for all.
I'd get the front battery box rebuilt properly and get either a gell cell or dry cell battery that won't leak acid. This rebuild should include proper retaining points.
Though I think your real problem is never having the acid gone from the original leak occasion. Break out the baking soda! Though James R. probably has some even better chemicals to end this once and for all.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
I'd say the body shop hasn't fixed it yet if they deleted the battery clamp. From the sounds of it, you'll probably want to take it somewhere competent to have it repaired, especially if you want to keep the car for a long time.
My car's had a regular battery in it for 17 years and the box still looks mint. You have to make sure the drain in the bottom of the box is running free. If they cover it with tar, where's the water going to go?
My car's had a regular battery in it for 17 years and the box still looks mint. You have to make sure the drain in the bottom of the box is running free. If they cover it with tar, where's the water going to go?
#10
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I have done this, I used a marine box and ran the cable inside the car through the back wheel arch, out and under the plastic sill cover, up over the pedals and back up through the hole for the wiring to the wiper motor.
#11
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I'm thinking about relocating the battery to behind the passanger seat. W/the roll bar there, and the rear seat backs removed, this area is useless for the time being. My sole reason for doing this would be to have the mass of the battery at a much lower, and central position.
Ahmet
Ahmet
#12
Nordschleife Master
Under the rear seat is a great idea for the reasons Ahmet mentioned. Several cars have this. Downside is that battery ever breaking loose in a crash and hydrogen offgas when charging. They are also sort of a pain to put jumper cables on.