Cam Gear Removal
#1
Cam Gear Removal
Looking for some tips on removing the camshaft gear. I want to replace all of the seals on the cam box as it looks as though its leaking in the front behind the cam gear. I removed the 8mm bolt that I thought was securing it to the camshaft but it still wont't budge off of there. Any tips of getting that thing off?
#2
Have you looked at this?:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/cam-03.pdf
#3
Guess I should have looked into Clark's Garage. That site has every procedure it seems. I didn't see a cheese head bolt in the center but maybe I didn't look hard enough last night. That seems to be the step that I'm missing.
#5
If I remember right, you have to remove the metal sleeve that the rotor slides into. The cheesehead bolt is behind it. Take care when trying to remove it, I stripped mine and it took me awhile to grind out the old one and then I needed to replace the big cam gear nut/collar too since I damaged the inside of it grinding out the bolt
#6
If you do strip out the cheeshead bolt, it's pretty easy to drill out... Use a brill bit that's just a little larger than the bolt shank diameter. You do have anew bolt, right? They're not supposed to be reused.
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#8
That IS the step that I was missing. I didn't see the cheese head bolt because the rotor mounting shaft is still in place. I did however remove that 8mm bolt that secures it in place. I do have a complete set of cheese head bits which will be good. I will order a new bolt to replace the one that I take out. I wonder if heating the outer edge of the collar slightly will make removal of the rotor mounting shaft easier. I have the cam box off because I bought the car with 8 bent valves and I'm going through the entire top end making sure everything is new.
Cam box is out:
The cylinder head that I had completely redone. I installed it two nights ago:
The reson I'm doing all of this is because I'm concerned about the oil seepage out from behind the cam gear on the cam box. I figure I may as well replace all of the seals while I have it apart.
Cam box is out:
The cylinder head that I had completely redone. I installed it two nights ago:
The reson I'm doing all of this is because I'm concerned about the oil seepage out from behind the cam gear on the cam box. I figure I may as well replace all of the seals while I have it apart.
#9
It's a good idea to change that seal occasionally. It's just like a balance shaft setup (metal collar, mylar washer, seal, o-ring). There's also a little cork gasket for the cap on the rear of the cam box.
That cheesehead bolt is pretty long - about 3", so you're not going to be able to get the heat to the threads.
I have a large 32mm wrench, and put the tripple-square bit on a breaker bar, line the wrenches up so it's like squeezing a pair of scissors. About 1/2 the time the bolt comes out, the other half the time it strips... But, like I said before, with a drill bit slightly larger than the shank of the bolt, in about 5-10 minutes, you can drill the head right off, then, once the cam sprocket is off, you have plenty of access to grab the shank of the bolt.
That cheesehead bolt is pretty long - about 3", so you're not going to be able to get the heat to the threads.
I have a large 32mm wrench, and put the tripple-square bit on a breaker bar, line the wrenches up so it's like squeezing a pair of scissors. About 1/2 the time the bolt comes out, the other half the time it strips... But, like I said before, with a drill bit slightly larger than the shank of the bolt, in about 5-10 minutes, you can drill the head right off, then, once the cam sprocket is off, you have plenty of access to grab the shank of the bolt.
#10
You don't need to heat the threads, just the backside of the bolt head where it meets the collar. With a quality bit, like a Stahlwille, I think there's less chance of stripping since it sits more snug in the bolt.