Just got a 944, couple of small problems
#1
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These are newbie problems. I have always been a Jeep guy and still am, but just picked up this Porsh-a. It's an 85/2 944 na. I just need some quick help on a couple of small problems:
Any help you can give me would be appreciated!
P.S. You can see pics on the Photo2 page at my website.
-Bart
- Interior lights (hatch or overhead) do not do off when doors are shut. They both dim, but stay on. Do I have a bad switch? How do I check?
- Blinker does not automatically turn off in either direction. I have an aftermarket Grant GT steering wheel (can I get a Porsche horn button for this?). I saw something about this when I searched, but don't know what to do.
- It's an auto tranny (yuck!) and the **** is loose. How does it attach? How does that cover plate come out?
Any help you can give me would be appreciated!
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P.S. You can see pics on the Photo2 page at my website.
-Bart
Last edited by bart1; 08-12-2003 at 12:12 PM.
#2
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Welcome to the list, you'll forget that Jeep soon enpugh.
'Bout all I can help on is to turn the interior lights completley out and save your battery, the dome light has a 3 position switch on it, always on/ always off/ on with doors or hatch.
I just looked at mine and the switch looks easy enough to get out, 1 phillips screw at the front of the door, I'd just pull them out and start playing around with them.
'Bout all I can help on is to turn the interior lights completley out and save your battery, the dome light has a 3 position switch on it, always on/ always off/ on with doors or hatch.
I just looked at mine and the switch looks easy enough to get out, 1 phillips screw at the front of the door, I'd just pull them out and start playing around with them.
Last edited by triscadek; 08-10-2003 at 12:19 AM.
#3
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Come rock crawling with me
Well, I can manually make the door switches and it does the same thing. I suppose I could completely disconect them one at a time and see what that does. I have them off now, but that is anoying at night.
-Bart
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Well, I can manually make the door switches and it does the same thing. I suppose I could completely disconect them one at a time and see what that does. I have them off now, but that is anoying at night.
-Bart
#4
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Bart, to make it cancel the turnsignal there are 2 prongs on the turnsignal box behind the steering wheel. Sometimes these prongs wear down. What many rennlisters have done is to cut small strips of good tape and wrap around the existing prongs to increase their thickness. It shouldn't take very much.
For the lights, have you verified that all of the switches come into full contact with a surface that would open the loop? If it's not that then start following the wiring.
For the lights, have you verified that all of the switches come into full contact with a surface that would open the loop? If it's not that then start following the wiring.
#5
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Bart. Two possibilities. The switchs are bad, or it's a ground issue (I know guys hear me out)
I've had similar problems. The overhead light kind of fixed itseld but would came back ocasionally, same witht he blinkers, but additional grounds seem to have fixed it. The tape idea is a good one as well.
It's also possible the door switches are bad as well.
Never having looked at an auto I can't help you there.
I've had similar problems. The overhead light kind of fixed itseld but would came back ocasionally, same witht he blinkers, but additional grounds seem to have fixed it. The tape idea is a good one as well.
It's also possible the door switches are bad as well.
Never having looked at an auto I can't help you there.
#6
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Hi Bart! I'm supposing it was the **** that was loose? meaning the shift lever??
There is a small rubber cover that slips down to the base of the shaft (Careful Sid, I'm not talking to YOU!!
) and you will expose a phillips head screw (Maybe one each side if I remember right.) Loosen and remove the Phillips and the t-bar will come out in your hands- there is a spring that may pop out at you from the button at the top.. All in all it's about 6 or 7 parts..
The plastic gear indicator panel pops up if you gently squeeze the sides of the panel and pull up. You can use a screwdriver gently to pop it up until you get a hold of it.
Geez- this is beginning to sound like a romance novel!~!
Tightening up the phillips head screws may be enough to solve the loose **** issue!
Good luck and welcome to Rennlist!!
There is a small rubber cover that slips down to the base of the shaft (Careful Sid, I'm not talking to YOU!!
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
The plastic gear indicator panel pops up if you gently squeeze the sides of the panel and pull up. You can use a screwdriver gently to pop it up until you get a hold of it.
Geez- this is beginning to sound like a romance novel!~!
Tightening up the phillips head screws may be enough to solve the loose **** issue!
Good luck and welcome to Rennlist!!
#7
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Sounds like I need to look out for Chris - focusing on my **** issue waaaaay too much! Nah, thanks, I will try that. Sounds like it should work.
I'll play with the switches today, maybe.
-Bart
I'll play with the switches today, maybe.
-Bart
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Take off the steering wheel and it should have 2 steel pins sticking out of the adapter. These are what cancels the turn signals. Sometimes they are installed too far in or not put in at all. If they are there and they don't cancel, pull them out just a little at a time and keep trying it.
If they aren't there, take a look at the switch with the wheel off. move the turn signal lever and look at the plastic part in the hub that moves when you move the arm. The pins on the back of the wheel need to contact this piece to cancel the signal. You may be able to find something (like a nail with the head cut off) to work in place of the pins. If not you may have to get a new hub adapter (they're cheap).
The is a horn button with a Porsche crest that fits Momo wheels. It may work on a Grant but I'm not sure. They show up on ebay from time to time for about $50.
If they aren't there, take a look at the switch with the wheel off. move the turn signal lever and look at the plastic part in the hub that moves when you move the arm. The pins on the back of the wheel need to contact this piece to cancel the signal. You may be able to find something (like a nail with the head cut off) to work in place of the pins. If not you may have to get a new hub adapter (they're cheap).
The is a horn button with a Porsche crest that fits Momo wheels. It may work on a Grant but I'm not sure. They show up on ebay from time to time for about $50.
#11
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I got my interior light working. Well, sort of. The problem was fixed when I disconect the connectors on either end of either rear hatch shock. Not sure how to fix that? How do those switches work? When the hatch is closed, shoulf the metal contactor on the botthm end of the shaft touch the can? I don't think so, it looks like it's fixed in place.
Also cleaned and greased the underhood light and got it working.
I still have the blinker problem. I took off the adaptor even, and never saw these pins. I removed the wheel, rubber sleeve, hub adaptor, main shaft nut, and got down to the horn contactor (little circuit board disc). I could not get it off and without it off, I could not remove the trim around the base of the column.
-Bart
Also cleaned and greased the underhood light and got it working.
I still have the blinker problem. I took off the adaptor even, and never saw these pins. I removed the wheel, rubber sleeve, hub adaptor, main shaft nut, and got down to the horn contactor (little circuit board disc). I could not get it off and without it off, I could not remove the trim around the base of the column.
-Bart
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Check and see if the shock on the left side of the car has a plastic cap/sleeve covering the top of the body of the shock. If it does, then somone put the shocks on the wrong sides of the car. The one on the right is supposed to have the switch for the lights. The sleeve is supposed to slide down the shaft of the shock and break the connection between the wire and the shaft and turn off the lights.
#13
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Resurrecting an old thread....
Had the same problem with my interior lights, but turned out the sleeve at the rear shock was not engaging the wire, thus not breaking the connection. There is a screw at the base (car side) of the shock which allows the contact to be moved. I had to move mine towards the plastic cap about a quarter inch for it to engage. Not much wire to play with, as I had to try several times before I got it to just the right area where the connector wouldn't pull off when shutting the hatch. Works perfect now!!! Just an FYI to future searchers out there....
Had the same problem with my interior lights, but turned out the sleeve at the rear shock was not engaging the wire, thus not breaking the connection. There is a screw at the base (car side) of the shock which allows the contact to be moved. I had to move mine towards the plastic cap about a quarter inch for it to engage. Not much wire to play with, as I had to try several times before I got it to just the right area where the connector wouldn't pull off when shutting the hatch. Works perfect now!!! Just an FYI to future searchers out there....
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