IceShark Full Boat Lighting kit - but I cheated.... long post with pics
08-04-2003, 08:59 PM
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Three Wheelin'
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IceShark Full Boat Lighting kit - but I cheated.... long post with pics
After working down my list of "to do's for the 951S, I finally got down to the dreaded task of installing the IceShark Full Boat lighting kit today. I haven't been looking forward to this because of access to the alternator to pull power right off the alternator to the Ice Shark harness.
I had the car up on blocks yesterday and removed the undertrays for a survey of the working space. Talk about TIGHT! At least the 60mm cooling hose for the alternator looked to be in good shape, but there was no way I could reach the back of the alternator to get to the +output lug, not to mention the regulator. But the PO had replaced the alternator and I get good 14.3 volts at the battery and at the headlights anyway. So that is in pretty good health.
This morning, I pullets the Full Boat cables out of the box - those things are a work of art Dan! Anyway, I proceeded to feed feed the new ground cable - easy enough after you remove the airbox, MAF, BOV, etc. then you have access to the bolt on the balance shaft housing as a good ground. I had already installed the IceShark ground cables last week so I knew it would be a good ground point (and no I did not drop the nut into the bell housing inspection hole! - but I DID FORGET to duct tape it, so I was lucky!).
I then proceeded to pull the main harness from the DS, pass it through behind the bumper (had to remove the lower front chin cover again) and was able to fish it through pretty easily compared to what came next.
While the plumbing was off, I took a good hard look at the alternator. Man O' Man, is that ever a tight space in there! Even with the intercooler hard pipe, MAF, and BOV removed, there was no way I could get any tools down there! And that was before I had to remove all the cooling pipes for the Turbo etc. Other than pulling the alternator, there really is no way to get at the back of that thing. And seeing that the cooling pipe and shroud can only be removed if the car is up on jacks, I thought long and hard about an alternative.
I finally decided NOT to pull the alternator as I had read a lot of horror stories about getting that thing in and out without resorting to a hammer - and since it was replaced not too long ago and still put out decent voltage, I made the decision to "cheat" to get +power to the harness.
I ended up pulling twin 8 gauge wires right from the battery post where the alternator terminates anyway, and running the cables to the DS along the rear firewall. I then CUT OFF that beautiful end that IceShark installs and soldered the wiring to the new harness.
After checking and rechecking all connections, zap ties, and making sure there was sufficient clearance for the HL mechanism, I reconnected the Neg cable at the battery and VOILA! Instant Full Boat lighting! Even in my garage I can already tell that the 90/100 H4 Narva bulbs in those Cibie lenses are MUCH brighter than the H4 Bosch I had in there before.
Well, now I can hardly wait until it gets really dark around here and then I'll aim the lights. I'll check the voltages I'm getting at the lights too sometime, but I doubt if there is much of a drop in wiring it to the battery instead of the alternator. But when I do the timing belts or somehow get access to that alternator, I'll crimp and end to the harness and connect it directly.
The new harness, lenses and grounds will really help. With my 100W euro DL (on a separate fused, relayed circuit already) and 55W fogs, the light output will be hitting 500+W! Finally, night lighting to match the speed capabilities of the car! I like the fact that I can bypass all the heavy current from the light switch in the car with the twin relays!
Talk about QUALITY!! This kit has it in SPADES. A Highly recommended lighting upgrade. Time consuming to install, but pretty satisfying results.
Dan, thanks for the great lighting kit!
I had the car up on blocks yesterday and removed the undertrays for a survey of the working space. Talk about TIGHT! At least the 60mm cooling hose for the alternator looked to be in good shape, but there was no way I could reach the back of the alternator to get to the +output lug, not to mention the regulator. But the PO had replaced the alternator and I get good 14.3 volts at the battery and at the headlights anyway. So that is in pretty good health.
This morning, I pullets the Full Boat cables out of the box - those things are a work of art Dan! Anyway, I proceeded to feed feed the new ground cable - easy enough after you remove the airbox, MAF, BOV, etc. then you have access to the bolt on the balance shaft housing as a good ground. I had already installed the IceShark ground cables last week so I knew it would be a good ground point (and no I did not drop the nut into the bell housing inspection hole! - but I DID FORGET to duct tape it, so I was lucky!).
I then proceeded to pull the main harness from the DS, pass it through behind the bumper (had to remove the lower front chin cover again) and was able to fish it through pretty easily compared to what came next.
While the plumbing was off, I took a good hard look at the alternator. Man O' Man, is that ever a tight space in there! Even with the intercooler hard pipe, MAF, and BOV removed, there was no way I could get any tools down there! And that was before I had to remove all the cooling pipes for the Turbo etc. Other than pulling the alternator, there really is no way to get at the back of that thing. And seeing that the cooling pipe and shroud can only be removed if the car is up on jacks, I thought long and hard about an alternative.
I finally decided NOT to pull the alternator as I had read a lot of horror stories about getting that thing in and out without resorting to a hammer - and since it was replaced not too long ago and still put out decent voltage, I made the decision to "cheat" to get +power to the harness.
I ended up pulling twin 8 gauge wires right from the battery post where the alternator terminates anyway, and running the cables to the DS along the rear firewall. I then CUT OFF that beautiful end that IceShark installs and soldered the wiring to the new harness.
After checking and rechecking all connections, zap ties, and making sure there was sufficient clearance for the HL mechanism, I reconnected the Neg cable at the battery and VOILA! Instant Full Boat lighting! Even in my garage I can already tell that the 90/100 H4 Narva bulbs in those Cibie lenses are MUCH brighter than the H4 Bosch I had in there before.
Well, now I can hardly wait until it gets really dark around here and then I'll aim the lights. I'll check the voltages I'm getting at the lights too sometime, but I doubt if there is much of a drop in wiring it to the battery instead of the alternator. But when I do the timing belts or somehow get access to that alternator, I'll crimp and end to the harness and connect it directly.
The new harness, lenses and grounds will really help. With my 100W euro DL (on a separate fused, relayed circuit already) and 55W fogs, the light output will be hitting 500+W! Finally, night lighting to match the speed capabilities of the car! I like the fact that I can bypass all the heavy current from the light switch in the car with the twin relays!
Talk about QUALITY!! This kit has it in SPADES. A Highly recommended lighting upgrade. Time consuming to install, but pretty satisfying results.
Dan, thanks for the great lighting kit!
08-04-2003, 10:37 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Glad you like it Randy.
Actually, if you are only going to connect the positive feed to the alternator (and not replace the voltage regulator) you can do it without removing the alternator. It is tight but get a short box wrench on the nuts that hold the alternator heat shield on and remove them. Then you can push off the shield enough to get your hand in there, unbolt the nut from the positive stud, put on the new cable and bolt it all back up. It is fairly easy, it just takes forever to unscrew the heat shield nuts because you can only get about a 1/6th to 1/4 turn at a time.
Well, measure the voltage at the bulb and see where you are then deal with doing it as originally intended sometime you are back down in the area. You are going to have a drop in voltage from the way I originally intended it. If you pull off the alternator the headlights get higher voltage than the battery does. LOL!
But you are going to be soooo much better than where you used to be you probably won't be in a rush to dig back down to the alternator anytime soon.
Actually, if you are only going to connect the positive feed to the alternator (and not replace the voltage regulator) you can do it without removing the alternator. It is tight but get a short box wrench on the nuts that hold the alternator heat shield on and remove them. Then you can push off the shield enough to get your hand in there, unbolt the nut from the positive stud, put on the new cable and bolt it all back up. It is fairly easy, it just takes forever to unscrew the heat shield nuts because you can only get about a 1/6th to 1/4 turn at a time.
Well, measure the voltage at the bulb and see where you are then deal with doing it as originally intended sometime you are back down in the area. You are going to have a drop in voltage from the way I originally intended it. If you pull off the alternator the headlights get higher voltage than the battery does. LOL!
But you are going to be soooo much better than where you used to be you probably won't be in a rush to dig back down to the alternator anytime soon.
08-05-2003, 01:35 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Sandor, save up for this light kit - oh, forgot you are still dealing with the clutch!
Dan, thanks for your advice - that heat shield is one ugly mother to get at, and since this 3 day weekend was spent on the P Car, I had to watch the time to completion. Oh well, when I do get back under there, I will get the harness onto that +post, and swap out the regulator. I'll do a voltage test later and let you know. What I do know is that I'm going out for a drive now that it's dark out! I know the perfect road to hit too.
cheers guys!
Dan, thanks for your advice - that heat shield is one ugly mother to get at, and since this 3 day weekend was spent on the P Car, I had to watch the time to completion. Oh well, when I do get back under there, I will get the harness onto that +post, and swap out the regulator. I'll do a voltage test later and let you know. What I do know is that I'm going out for a drive now that it's dark out! I know the perfect road to hit too.
cheers guys!
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08-05-2003, 03:26 AM
#8
Nordschleife Master
Matt,
True, I'm sold out on the headlight wiring harness (for the Full Boat Headlight Kit) if Olli in Finland still wants his. I have plenty of all the other items like lenses, various bulbs and voltage regulators.
Randy bought his package quite a few months ago and is just getting around to the install.
The heart and soul of this package is the wiring harness. But to make some more I would need about 20 to 25 guys to sign up. So I guess people could sign up on an order list again and send in deposits for a new build but I think I have pretty much sold out all the owners that care about good lighting and have the money to do something about it.
That is where it is at.
Randy, hope the night run was fun, even with mis-aimed lights. Wish you would have talked to me during install. Rather than cutting off my alternator terminal an doing a solder to the battery wires you should have just crimped and soldered on some eye terminals to your alternate battery wires. Then just bolted the works together and apply a heavy wall glue lined heat shrink to seal up. That is what eye terminals are for!
Oh well, what is done is done.
True, I'm sold out on the headlight wiring harness (for the Full Boat Headlight Kit) if Olli in Finland still wants his. I have plenty of all the other items like lenses, various bulbs and voltage regulators.
Randy bought his package quite a few months ago and is just getting around to the install.
The heart and soul of this package is the wiring harness. But to make some more I would need about 20 to 25 guys to sign up. So I guess people could sign up on an order list again and send in deposits for a new build but I think I have pretty much sold out all the owners that care about good lighting and have the money to do something about it.
That is where it is at.
Randy, hope the night run was fun, even with mis-aimed lights. Wish you would have talked to me during install. Rather than cutting off my alternator terminal an doing a solder to the battery wires you should have just crimped and soldered on some eye terminals to your alternate battery wires. Then just bolted the works together and apply a heavy wall glue lined heat shrink to seal up. That is what eye terminals are for!
Oh well, what is done is done.
Last edited by IceShark; 08-05-2003 at 03:58 AM.
