Timing belt has 14,000 miles, installed in 2001
#32
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Car is halfway across the country.
I wouldn't drive it with fourteen year old belts.
IMHO if the car has over 75,000 miles and the clutch, motor mounts and if an 87+, the control arms are original they along with the belts are ready to be replaced:
If two identical cars were next to each other, one with the recent clutch, motor mounts, ball joints, and belts done and one without, I would value the one with the work done about $3000 higher than the one without, even if both drive fine today. That assumes the control arms are not shot beyond aftermarket kit.
Do you agree?
#33
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Bah. I would wager that at least for 16V cars the risk of misadventure from a timing belt job is greater than the risk that the belt has degraded over 10 years enough to fail. Setting the tension wrong, breaking or stripping a stud, installing a bad water pump, poor belt tracking... Age is not that big a factor, Yes, change it but after you have made your list of all the work that needs to be done so you are not in there twice and get it done by the people you are going forward with.
Work done on these cars requires a pretty specific skill and knowledge set and if done wrong it's not valuable. I would prefer a skipped-maintenance car so I could make sure it gets done right over a car where the maintenance was just caught up with unknown quality parts and workmanship.
Yes, people have stripped timing belt teeth but this seems to happen to belts of any age and I suspect a soft seize of the head or belt system or similar is more likely than belt age or quality as the main reason. Loose belt, skipped timing, valve contact, strips teeth... stripped teeth are blamed but they are a symptom and not a cause.
-Joel.
Work done on these cars requires a pretty specific skill and knowledge set and if done wrong it's not valuable. I would prefer a skipped-maintenance car so I could make sure it gets done right over a car where the maintenance was just caught up with unknown quality parts and workmanship.
Yes, people have stripped timing belt teeth but this seems to happen to belts of any age and I suspect a soft seize of the head or belt system or similar is more likely than belt age or quality as the main reason. Loose belt, skipped timing, valve contact, strips teeth... stripped teeth are blamed but they are a symptom and not a cause.
-Joel.
#34
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Not all timing belts are created equal, I have a 1991 Lexus LS400 V8 with the original camshaft belt and it works just fine, this is a non interference engine. There is more than one type of timing belt made. Lexus used a HSN type. That's 23 years folks.
#36
CHANGE IT TODAY!!!!!!!!!
#37
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I will also agree with you, with one exception - his engine is a non-interference engine. If the belt blows he only has to contend with the inconvenience of waiting for a garage to change the belt, he will not experience the anguish of having to pay for a head rebuild.
#38
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According to the owners manual for a 1991 Lexus LS400 the timing belt does not need to be changed unless the vehicle is used in police service or in delivery service both scenarios requiring extensive idling and hardly a role for that type of car. If it goes I will replace it myself. I have a new belt, a water pump and idler waiting for the event. This engine is 242 ci ( 4L) and 250 hp so over a hp per ci and has six bolt mains. My Turbo has twice the output with 3.8L but for a 1991 it is impressive IMO.
#39
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Well, the conundrum I am facing is how to offer someone what I believe s the fair value for his car without insulting him.
No matter how clean the car may be, with over 75k miles, an original clutch, original motor mounts, original shocks, 14 year old belts, and control arms that will need near immediate refreshing if it isn't a turbo or S2 it isn't a 4,500 car.
No matter how clean the car may be, with over 75k miles, an original clutch, original motor mounts, original shocks, 14 year old belts, and control arms that will need near immediate refreshing if it isn't a turbo or S2 it isn't a 4,500 car.
#40
Well, the conundrum I am facing is how to offer someone what I believe s the fair value for his car without insulting him.
No matter how clean the car may be, with over 75k miles, an original clutch, original motor mounts, original shocks, 14 year old belts, and control arms that will need near immediate refreshing if it isn't a turbo or S2 it isn't a 4,500 car.
No matter how clean the car may be, with over 75k miles, an original clutch, original motor mounts, original shocks, 14 year old belts, and control arms that will need near immediate refreshing if it isn't a turbo or S2 it isn't a 4,500 car.
I've done this several times.
Just be respectful and honest about it. Write it all down (email) and present your case.
Sometimes an owner doesn't realize the real condition of their car and the market. Nobody wants to buy a car at market price if it needs market price of work done.
On the other hand, how many $4500 cars have all brand new parts in them?
I wrote down my case and what I thought was a fair offer for the purchase of my 928S4 and the guy blew a head gasket! Wrote me a 2 page long "screw you" letter!
6 weeks later the car was mine for the offer price. Once he knew what he was looking at and what the expectations were from buyers he calmed down and decided it was a fair price.
Sometimes it will work out, sometimes not.