Engine won't hand crank after removing flywheel lock
#1
Racer
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It was turning over just fine when the flywheel lock was put on.
Is there a reason it would have gotten stuck somehow during my belt change?
It did sit with the lock on for a month while I got the parts together for my water pump conversion.
I had a tough time getting the oil pump drive gear to slide on while changing seals. Would that maybe cause an issue?
The trans is in neutral, the starter is still out, I've jerked on it both directions, tapped it with a mallet, and still no luck on it breaking free.
Any ideas?
Is there a reason it would have gotten stuck somehow during my belt change?
It did sit with the lock on for a month while I got the parts together for my water pump conversion.
I had a tough time getting the oil pump drive gear to slide on while changing seals. Would that maybe cause an issue?
The trans is in neutral, the starter is still out, I've jerked on it both directions, tapped it with a mallet, and still no luck on it breaking free.
Any ideas?
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As long as your oil pump drive gear properly engaged the inner rotor there should be no issue with that.
When you removed the flywheel lock, was the engine solidly locked or did it move and then get stuck?
When you removed the flywheel lock, was the engine solidly locked or did it move and then get stuck?
#4
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Ya the oil drive gear slid in place after a bit of polishing on the shaft so it's probably fine. That and the seals are the only thing that I changed on that shaft though so that's the only reason I thought that might be the cause.
It was stuck solid as soon as I took the flywheel lock off though and won't move the slightest bit.
I'm using my torque wrench to try to turn it with it still set at 150lbs and it won't budge before it clicks.
I don't want to over-torque it so I haven't put more torque on it than that .
It was stuck solid as soon as I took the flywheel lock off though and won't move the slightest bit.
I'm using my torque wrench to try to turn it with it still set at 150lbs and it won't budge before it clicks.
I don't want to over-torque it so I haven't put more torque on it than that .
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As Adker says, recheck your timing marks before you go much further.
Double check to make sure you are out of gear.
Did you have your plugs removed during the month that you were waiting on parts? If you did it is possible that you could have some rust on the rings, that could make it difficult to spin the engine by hand.
The crank bolt torque spec is 155 ft lbs. After finishing troubleshooting your no turn problem, I would reinstall the flywheel lock and torque the crank bolt accordingly.
Double check to make sure you are out of gear.
Did you have your plugs removed during the month that you were waiting on parts? If you did it is possible that you could have some rust on the rings, that could make it difficult to spin the engine by hand.
The crank bolt torque spec is 155 ft lbs. After finishing troubleshooting your no turn problem, I would reinstall the flywheel lock and torque the crank bolt accordingly.
#7
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Any chance you left the spacer washer out after the oil gear, or flipped the timing bolt cog around, or otherwise locked up the motor at the front pulley area? Or put the ref sensor in too deep?
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#10
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Reference sensor is at the top back driver side (more to the center top) of the engine. If you removed it you would know what it is, it is a PITA to deal with because they usually are corroded in place.
#13
Racer
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Can someone confirm the direction that the crank cog needs to be installed?
I have done some googling and have found pictures that have the big lip on the inside, some with it on the outside, as well as some that have no lip on it at all.
The image above is how I installed it and it was how I remembered taking it off. There was that month of waiting for parts so my memory of it could have definitely been wrong by the time I put it back on.
I have done some googling and have found pictures that have the big lip on the inside, some with it on the outside, as well as some that have no lip on it at all.
The image above is how I installed it and it was how I remembered taking it off. There was that month of waiting for parts so my memory of it could have definitely been wrong by the time I put it back on.
#14
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Looks like you have it on correctly. See nice picture here.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ientation.html
Did you take the belts back off or is that a picture from when you were doing the work? You might take off the belts in any event to see if the cam or balance shafts are locked up for some reason (i.e., if the motor spins with the belts off). Balance shafts in particular can get locked in place if you're not careful with the alignment of the end pieces. Did you try moving the motor in both directions (to rule one-way blocks like valves hitting pistons, etc.)? I wouldn't put 150 ft lbs on it until you figure out what's wrong. That much torque can bend stuff... How sure are you that you got the oil drive cog in correctly? I'd say the chances are pretty remote that your motor seized in the month or two it sat still -- so you probably need to start disassembling your work until you figure out what's stopping it from rotating.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ientation.html
Did you take the belts back off or is that a picture from when you were doing the work? You might take off the belts in any event to see if the cam or balance shafts are locked up for some reason (i.e., if the motor spins with the belts off). Balance shafts in particular can get locked in place if you're not careful with the alignment of the end pieces. Did you try moving the motor in both directions (to rule one-way blocks like valves hitting pistons, etc.)? I wouldn't put 150 ft lbs on it until you figure out what's wrong. That much torque can bend stuff... How sure are you that you got the oil drive cog in correctly? I'd say the chances are pretty remote that your motor seized in the month or two it sat still -- so you probably need to start disassembling your work until you figure out what's stopping it from rotating.
#15
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I was going to say it was on backwards, based on a picture of mine during a belt job, but then I remembered I had it on backwards -- lip to rear.
I would say if there is NO rotation forward or backward, it has to be something on the crank, not the cam/valves, trans, etc.
I would say if there is NO rotation forward or backward, it has to be something on the crank, not the cam/valves, trans, etc.