Tie rod end removal
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Tie rod end removal
Can anyone help me figure out how to get these 2 parts... apart. First is the tierod end. It's an 83 manual rack. I have the bolt off, but can't figure out how to separate them and don't want to break anything.
The other issue, is getting the speedo cable out of the steering spindle. It gets almost all the way out, then snags on something. No matter how much I jiggle it or spin it, it won't break free.
Thanks!
The other issue, is getting the speedo cable out of the steering spindle. It gets almost all the way out, then snags on something. No matter how much I jiggle it or spin it, it won't break free.
Thanks!
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2004
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given the condition of the cable (it looks destroyed), I'd just cut it off.
to separate the tie rod, you use a "pickle fork" and a big hammer or you get a special tool that presses it out - either will work - I use the pickle fork approach, but that is because I have a selection of them. I have taken them apart with a steel block and a sledge hammer, but I'd discourage that unless you are really desperate
to separate the tie rod, you use a "pickle fork" and a big hammer or you get a special tool that presses it out - either will work - I use the pickle fork approach, but that is because I have a selection of them. I have taken them apart with a steel block and a sledge hammer, but I'd discourage that unless you are really desperate
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the quick response!
Of course more tools to buy... Is it difficult to reroute a new speedo cable? I'd rather just keep this one. It looks jacked up, but its the end of it that keeps snagging inside the spindle.
Of course more tools to buy... Is it difficult to reroute a new speedo cable? I'd rather just keep this one. It looks jacked up, but its the end of it that keeps snagging inside the spindle.
#4
Instructor
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Once you get the tie rod loose and you can straighten out the path that you are pulling the speedo cable it will probably come out. From the looks of the pic, you have a pretty good bend that is more than likely causing it to bind.
To separate the tie rod end, you could put the nut back on until it is flush with the top of the stud, support the end of the steering knuckle with a jack stand, then give the nut a good solid whack with a heavy hammer - it should pop right out. Not the correct method, but it will work in a pinch.
To separate the tie rod end, you could put the nut back on until it is flush with the top of the stud, support the end of the steering knuckle with a jack stand, then give the nut a good solid whack with a heavy hammer - it should pop right out. Not the correct method, but it will work in a pinch.
#5
Burning Brakes
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the tie rod tools are inexpensive, it's worth having some.
The cable probably pulls all the way out from the housing and through the spindle - I haven't worked on that vintage car, but I'd definitely replace the cable (the core, not the housing). I seem to remember that it worked that way on my 356 - your cable core is in seriously deteriorated condition, a new core can be bought at any auto parts store, it's a universal replacement.
The cable probably pulls all the way out from the housing and through the spindle - I haven't worked on that vintage car, but I'd definitely replace the cable (the core, not the housing). I seem to remember that it worked that way on my 356 - your cable core is in seriously deteriorated condition, a new core can be bought at any auto parts store, it's a universal replacement.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok so i went and got a pickle fork. Hammered it in over the boot cover. all I managed to do was squeeze grease out... What am I doing wrong? is this like a ball joint that needs a lot of pressure to come out?
#7
Burning Brakes
I had a ton of trouble with mine. I did mine on the car, but the solution is the same. You have to use the pickle fork so that the end of the steering arm is still exposed on the knuckle. Then crank on the pickle fork as a hard as possible to get some tension going. Next you have to strike the end of the steering arm with a BIG hammer. This isn't intuitive, but the shock of the hammer strike will slightly deform the hole in the knuckle and allow the tie rod to unfreeze. I didn't believe it would work, but after a ton of solvent, hammering the tie rod, and torching I had no luck. This method released it in 3 strikes.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
I just got that exact tool. I think my problem is that the tie rod is the last thing connected to the steering knuckle. Everything else is disconnected. I'm guessing I should attach the knuckle back to the strut assembly so I can have resistance when prying it off.
#11
Rennlist Member
I personally use a tie rod end remover.
It's a low cost tool that gets the job done right.
However, I'd suggest getting a brand name version of the tool, as I know of one case where the tool broke in two while removing a particularly stubborn tie rod end.
[Edit] Mine looks a lot like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
It's a low cost tool that gets the job done right.
However, I'd suggest getting a brand name version of the tool, as I know of one case where the tool broke in two while removing a particularly stubborn tie rod end.
[Edit] Mine looks a lot like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
#13
Go buy a tie rod end puller from Autozone. Cost about $40 if I recall. Takes all of the guesswork out of it. I have a pickle fork and a big hammer as well but every time i use I end up having to replace the tie rod end. This puller is specially designed not not to mess up the rubber boot.
See link
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=209525_0_0_
See link
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=209525_0_0_
#15
Burning Brakes
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the reason to not pound on it a lot with a hammer is the potential to fracture other parts, but if you have the spindle off anyway and you support it properly, that risk is minimized.