Just bought a fire damaged 951
#1
Just bought a fire damaged 951
All, I lurk around the 928 forum as I also own an 88 S4 which I bought recently. I just recently bought an 86 944 turbo that had an engine fire. Seller
indicated that it starts but had a fuel line leak so not to start it.
Will have more time to assess today as I had time to do s unload it from a flat bed and into my storage unit. I did take a second to look under the hood and it appears that the fire started on the passenger side of the engine bay.
This is my first 944 and I look forward to getting stuck in. Given that I have no experience with these cars, I expect to have lots of stupid questions so please bear with me.
indicated that it starts but had a fuel line leak so not to start it.
Will have more time to assess today as I had time to do s unload it from a flat bed and into my storage unit. I did take a second to look under the hood and it appears that the fire started on the passenger side of the engine bay.
This is my first 944 and I look forward to getting stuck in. Given that I have no experience with these cars, I expect to have lots of stupid questions so please bear with me.
#2
Car looks nice, I hope it is not too damaged.
Check this site, much of 951 knowledge here: http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Check this site, much of 951 knowledge here: http://www.clarks-garage.com/
#4
People never learn, changing fuel lines should be a top priority, specially the damper line which always seems to be fine but it's cracked or ready to burst
#5
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#9
Guys thanks. I checked the car over and the damage does not look too bad. It appears that most of the damage is smoke and melted hood pad. The hood has a blister about 8 inch in diameter but it's white and can be blended. The fenders and the rest of the hood are in good shape.
It looks like I'll need all fuel lines, speedo or cruise control cable. all hoses that connect to the fuel injectors. The the injectors cleaned which I can do myself and rebuild the wiring harness on the fuel rail which I can also do myself.
I also need the cover that goes over the wiring.
Here are some pictures:
After wiping down the fenders, the paint appears to be in good shape.
Some clear coat peeling that also needs fixing on the C-Pillar.
It looks like I'll need all fuel lines, speedo or cruise control cable. all hoses that connect to the fuel injectors. The the injectors cleaned which I can do myself and rebuild the wiring harness on the fuel rail which I can also do myself.
I also need the cover that goes over the wiring.
Here are some pictures:
After wiping down the fenders, the paint appears to be in good shape.
Some clear coat peeling that also needs fixing on the C-Pillar.
#12
Quick update:
I pulled the fuel hoses off and took them to a local hose specialist. They were able to re-use the existing fittings and crimp them on to new hoses for under $30.
The heat shielding is toast so I'm going to use the fiberglass sleeve that I used when rebuilding my 75 Jaguar XJ12C wiring harness. It's fire proof and looks pretty good and I already have 50ft of the stuff.
I also picked up some FI hose clamps to use on the steel line end.
Here are the finished hoses
I also picked up a couple of hood struts and hatch struts as mine are toast.
It's a minor job, but sure makes a difference when you're working under the hood.
Lastly, I pulled the burnt injectors in order to ultrasonically clean them and test them. Initial testing showed that they were a little out of balance. But after removing the filters and giving them a good clean, they balanced out pretty well.
Unfortunately, one of the injectors is leaking between the two halves so i'm going to have to replace it, but otherwise, they balanced out pretty well.
Here's a video of the flow testing in action.
Hoping to fix the wiring harness on the weekend and put the car back together. I have new plug wires, and new injector connectors. I'll use the fireproof sleeve for the rebuilt wiring harness which should stop it from burning in case the worse happens again.
I pulled the fuel hoses off and took them to a local hose specialist. They were able to re-use the existing fittings and crimp them on to new hoses for under $30.
The heat shielding is toast so I'm going to use the fiberglass sleeve that I used when rebuilding my 75 Jaguar XJ12C wiring harness. It's fire proof and looks pretty good and I already have 50ft of the stuff.
I also picked up some FI hose clamps to use on the steel line end.
Here are the finished hoses
I also picked up a couple of hood struts and hatch struts as mine are toast.
It's a minor job, but sure makes a difference when you're working under the hood.
Lastly, I pulled the burnt injectors in order to ultrasonically clean them and test them. Initial testing showed that they were a little out of balance. But after removing the filters and giving them a good clean, they balanced out pretty well.
Unfortunately, one of the injectors is leaking between the two halves so i'm going to have to replace it, but otherwise, they balanced out pretty well.
Here's a video of the flow testing in action.
Hoping to fix the wiring harness on the weekend and put the car back together. I have new plug wires, and new injector connectors. I'll use the fireproof sleeve for the rebuilt wiring harness which should stop it from burning in case the worse happens again.
#14
Progress was a little slower then I expected, I ended up taking the intake off as I was concerned about what was underneath it. It was a good call as the main wiring loom was burnt pretty badly and most of the vacuum lines had also melted.
I ended up rebuilding the wiring harness under the intake as well as rebuilding the harness to the injectors using 16 gauge primary wire, first wrapped in heat shrink, followed by a fiberglass sleeve that's designed to resist fires.
Bolted everything back together again last weekend and went to work on the vacuum system which was quite a challenge. There's a million vacuum diagrams online and I did not think to look at the smoke damaged sticker on the fender.
After changing the oil and the filter, I started the car and it ran first time but has a lifter tick and an exhaust leak. I'm hoping that the lifter tick will clear after the car gets driven.
Yesterday I washed the engine down with degreaser which helped to remove a lot of the smoke damage and then took it for an inspection. It passed and I was able to register the car.
Here are some pictures now that the car is cleaned up:
I have some issues that I need to address.
1) How do you jack this car up? I don't see any jack points and it looks like someone before me winked the bottom of the front fenders trying to do the same thing.
2) The warning "!' icon on the dash is lit but gets dimmer and goes away as you rev the car. Is this a bad alternator? My 928 has the same light which lights up for just about every reason under the sun.
3) If alternator, does it make sense to do the voltage regulator first? In the MB world, it's almost always the voltage regulator.
Here's a video of the engine running:
I ended up rebuilding the wiring harness under the intake as well as rebuilding the harness to the injectors using 16 gauge primary wire, first wrapped in heat shrink, followed by a fiberglass sleeve that's designed to resist fires.
Bolted everything back together again last weekend and went to work on the vacuum system which was quite a challenge. There's a million vacuum diagrams online and I did not think to look at the smoke damaged sticker on the fender.
After changing the oil and the filter, I started the car and it ran first time but has a lifter tick and an exhaust leak. I'm hoping that the lifter tick will clear after the car gets driven.
Yesterday I washed the engine down with degreaser which helped to remove a lot of the smoke damage and then took it for an inspection. It passed and I was able to register the car.
Here are some pictures now that the car is cleaned up:
I have some issues that I need to address.
1) How do you jack this car up? I don't see any jack points and it looks like someone before me winked the bottom of the front fenders trying to do the same thing.
2) The warning "!' icon on the dash is lit but gets dimmer and goes away as you rev the car. Is this a bad alternator? My 928 has the same light which lights up for just about every reason under the sun.
3) If alternator, does it make sense to do the voltage regulator first? In the MB world, it's almost always the voltage regulator.
Here's a video of the engine running: