Dropped Bolt in the Bellhousing?!?!?
07-24-2003, 07:40 PM
#16
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That's too bad. Actually I dropped an 0.8mm washer down the ref sensor hole while checking the clearance
I guess you could turn it over and see what happens. Maybe it will shake it out to the bottom, or get stuck. Anyhow it has to beat tearing it down.
I will have my car say a few prayers for yours
I guess you could turn it over and see what happens. Maybe it will shake it out to the bottom, or get stuck. Anyhow it has to beat tearing it down.I will have my car say a few prayers for yours
07-25-2003, 01:44 PM
#17
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Ugh. Happened to me last year. I briefly considered suicide before asking the board. Anyhow I went with the hand crank method. Starter out, big ratchet with 24mm socket on crankbolt turned it one way until it jammed, then turned it the other and it dropped out the starter hole.
Duck tape is nice once you know the dang hole is there!
good luck!
Stef
Duck tape is nice once you know the dang hole is there!
good luck!
Stef
07-25-2003, 04:13 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
I've got a good story. Last year I rebuilt the top end of my Norton 850 and retorqued the head at 100 kilometers. Shortly after, it developed a nasty rattle in the engine just when letting the clutch out in first. I couldn't figure out what could be making a noise like that, but it sounded bad so I put it in the garage and forgot about it.
Three weeks ago I go out to have another look. Guess I calmed down over the last 12 months.
I pull the gas tank, and there, in a deep hole in the head where you get to two cylinder head studs, is my missing socket extension and socket.
And I'd been looking for that extension several weeks earlier and wondering where it was.
Kind of like a surgeon leaving a tool in a patient, eh?
Three weeks ago I go out to have another look. Guess I calmed down over the last 12 months.
I pull the gas tank, and there, in a deep hole in the head where you get to two cylinder head studs, is my missing socket extension and socket.
And I'd been looking for that extension several weeks earlier and wondering where it was.
Kind of like a surgeon leaving a tool in a patient, eh?
Last edited by Peckster; 07-25-2003 at 06:45 PM.
07-25-2003, 04:54 PM
#19
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Originally posted by Peckster
I've got a good story. ..........
I pull the gas tank, and there, in a deep hole in the head where you get to two cylinder head studs, is my missing socket extension and socket.
And I'd been looking for that extension several weeks earlier and wondering where it was.
Kind of like a surgeon leaving a tool in a patient, eh?
I've got a good story. ..........
I pull the gas tank, and there, in a deep hole in the head where you get to two cylinder head studs, is my missing socket extension and socket.
And I'd been looking for that extension several weeks earlier and wondering where it was.
Kind of like a surgeon leaving a tool in a patient, eh?
07-25-2003, 09:03 PM
#21
Drifting
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im sorry to say this, if you haent gotten it out by now its because it is on the engine side of the flywheel and theres about nothing you can do to get it out. I had my car completely done after a clutch change and the last thing i had to do was hook up that ground cable. and the same htign happened. that thign fell right in there.
This is the part your really gonna hate. I ended up having to drop the tranny and move the drive shaft, take the bell housing off. then almost remove the flywheels but then i ended up getting it with a magnet from underneith. It took a total of 6 hours to get it back to driving. but we had jsut spent almost 2 weeks doing a clutch job a day before this happened so we knew what we were doing.
This is the part your really gonna hate. I ended up having to drop the tranny and move the drive shaft, take the bell housing off. then almost remove the flywheels but then i ended up getting it with a magnet from underneith. It took a total of 6 hours to get it back to driving. but we had jsut spent almost 2 weeks doing a clutch job a day before this happened so we knew what we were doing.
07-26-2003, 01:55 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
As Red Green says, duct tape is the handyman's secret weapon. 
Another problem with the sight hole is you can leak coolant down in there if you disconnect the heater hose or just wash the engine bay. The water/coolant then seizes up the bearing surfaces and your clutch won't release fully. I'm fairly convinced this is what happened to me but can't be 100% sure as I never took things apart, just double clutched for a few hundred miles and things finally freed up, more or less.
Another problem with the sight hole is you can leak coolant down in there if you disconnect the heater hose or just wash the engine bay. The water/coolant then seizes up the bearing surfaces and your clutch won't release fully. I'm fairly convinced this is what happened to me but can't be 100% sure as I never took things apart, just double clutched for a few hundred miles and things finally freed up, more or less.
07-26-2003, 03:56 PM
#24
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Originally posted by IceShark
As Red Green says, duct tape is the handyman's secret weapon.
Another problem with the sight hole is you can leak coolant down in there if you disconnect the heater hose or just wash the engine bay. The water/coolant then seizes up the bearing surfaces and your clutch won't release fully. I'm fairly convinced this is what happened to me but can't be 100% sure as I never took things apart, just double clutched for a few hundred miles and things finally freed up, more or less.
As Red Green says, duct tape is the handyman's secret weapon.
Another problem with the sight hole is you can leak coolant down in there if you disconnect the heater hose or just wash the engine bay. The water/coolant then seizes up the bearing surfaces and your clutch won't release fully. I'm fairly convinced this is what happened to me but can't be 100% sure as I never took things apart, just double clutched for a few hundred miles and things finally freed up, more or less.
07-26-2003, 04:08 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
I don't know about always keeping it covered. There must have been some reason it was left open by Porsche, no? Clutch dust escaping? Although, I think we give Porsche more credit on design issues than they deserve.
Everytime you work in the engine bay you should go through a rote procedure of pulling the negative battery cable and covering up that damn hole.
Everytime you work in the engine bay you should go through a rote procedure of pulling the negative battery cable and covering up that damn hole.
07-26-2003, 07:46 PM
#27
Race Director
I found rubber plugs at my Toyota dealer that fits into that upper hole and also the lower clutch-inspection hole too (anyone have Porsche part# for this?). I suspect keeping the release and pilot bearings clean would help extend their life. The last time I did a clutch, it was because the pilot bearing had wornout completely and was squealing. The clutch-disc still had plenty of life left. I did have a heater-valve hose leak coolant down in that area for a couple weeks before I found it, so I suspected that was the reason. This last time I rebuilt my engine, I used a heavy-duty aquarium silicone to seal the bell-housing to the block. Along with the rubber-plugs, I'm betting that no coolant or any nuts and bolts of any kind are going to find their way into my clutch!
This whole speed & ref. sensor thing is STUPID! Why couldn't they have mounted it lower down so you can access it from underneath? Adjustments will be much easier. And if you drop and nuts and bolts, they'll just fall on your face instead of into the clutch.. grr....
This whole speed & ref. sensor thing is STUPID! Why couldn't they have mounted it lower down so you can access it from underneath? Adjustments will be much easier. And if you drop and nuts and bolts, they'll just fall on your face instead of into the clutch.. grr....
07-26-2003, 08:09 PM
#28
Originally posted by Danno
I found rubber plugs at my Toyota dealer that fits into that upper hole and also the lower clutch-inspection hole too (anyone have Porsche part# for this?). I suspect keeping the release and pilot bearings clean would help extend their life. The last time I did a clutch, it was because the pilot bearing had wornout completely and was squealing. The clutch-disc still had plenty of life left. I did have a heater-valve hose leak coolant down in that area for a couple weeks before I found it, so I suspected that was the reason. This last time I rebuilt my engine, I used a heavy-duty aquarium silicone to seal the bell-housing to the block. Along with the rubber-plugs, I'm betting that no coolant or any nuts and bolts of any kind are going to find their way into my clutch!
This whole speed & ref. sensor thing is STUPID! Why couldn't they have mounted it lower down so you can access it from underneath? Adjustments will be much easier. And if you drop and nuts and bolts, they'll just fall on your face instead of into the clutch.. grr....
I found rubber plugs at my Toyota dealer that fits into that upper hole and also the lower clutch-inspection hole too (anyone have Porsche part# for this?). I suspect keeping the release and pilot bearings clean would help extend their life. The last time I did a clutch, it was because the pilot bearing had wornout completely and was squealing. The clutch-disc still had plenty of life left. I did have a heater-valve hose leak coolant down in that area for a couple weeks before I found it, so I suspected that was the reason. This last time I rebuilt my engine, I used a heavy-duty aquarium silicone to seal the bell-housing to the block. Along with the rubber-plugs, I'm betting that no coolant or any nuts and bolts of any kind are going to find their way into my clutch!
This whole speed & ref. sensor thing is STUPID! Why couldn't they have mounted it lower down so you can access it from underneath? Adjustments will be much easier. And if you drop and nuts and bolts, they'll just fall on your face instead of into the clutch.. grr....
Actually, the really stupid thing is that the coolant hose underneath the reference/speed sensors can break, and spill coolant:
1. On the two grounds (which corroded badly, in my case).
2. Into the main engine harness (the opening of the big rubber boot is almost directly underneath the hose).
What's that Toyota part number?
The lower clutch inspection hole cap/plug part number is: 931.116.177.00. Yet another part that I have had "removed" by my mechanic when I dropped it off for repairs because it was not necessary.
-Kevin
