Dsm Lies?
07-20-2003, 09:14 PM
#16
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Originally posted by Dare
Not true. The Talon line had all the same variants as the Eclipses, including a front wheel drive turbo. I know because I owned one.
Not true. The Talon line had all the same variants as the Eclipses, including a front wheel drive turbo. I know because I owned one.
07-20-2003, 11:46 PM
#17
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An all-wheel drive 2G Eagle Talon will be my next snow car, . . . if I can just stop buying Porsches.
Last edited by Matt Sheppard; 07-21-2003 at 12:04 AM.
07-21-2003, 01:47 AM
#19
Race Director
It can also damage stuff IIRC. I also thought there was a workaround, but that it is involved and not 100%. My memory is a bit fuzzy on this because I'm not part of the DSM community and I'm going off a conversation with a friend who has had to deal with thi.
07-21-2003, 11:35 AM
#21
Nordschleife Master
My boyfriend has an automatic '91 Eagle Talon, but he's very much interested in the turbo AWD version.
What little I have found out is that it is more of a drag car than a 951, since Porsches aren't made for that. They make excellent track cars, and can give you a run for your money, but head to head, I cannot be sure, never seen it done.
If you want a second car to your Porsche, go ahead; but it does have it's own set of headaches, and about once a month, I want to shoot my boyfriend's car! Like last week, when I lost control of it, because he forgot to tell me it was making grinding noises; hello, it's not a good idea to run your brake pads down to the metal! 95% gone on right front, 100% gone left rear; still trying to figure it out, after replacing all the rotors and ceramic brake pads. I think those may be a caliper problem at this point, since the other pads were only 50%.
But it would be more fun to drive if it were a Turbo! I'm not letting him get one, until he gets to know how to take better care of this car; I get tired of fixing it myself!
- Julie
What little I have found out is that it is more of a drag car than a 951, since Porsches aren't made for that. They make excellent track cars, and can give you a run for your money, but head to head, I cannot be sure, never seen it done.
If you want a second car to your Porsche, go ahead; but it does have it's own set of headaches, and about once a month, I want to shoot my boyfriend's car! Like last week, when I lost control of it, because he forgot to tell me it was making grinding noises; hello, it's not a good idea to run your brake pads down to the metal! 95% gone on right front, 100% gone left rear; still trying to figure it out, after replacing all the rotors and ceramic brake pads. I think those may be a caliper problem at this point, since the other pads were only 50%.
But it would be more fun to drive if it were a Turbo! I'm not letting him get one, until he gets to know how to take better care of this car; I get tired of fixing it myself!
- Julie
07-21-2003, 11:44 AM
#22
I drove an auto 1g GSX before. It was alright, but the AWD definitely helped when I got on the gas in the rain. I wasn't modified or anything, but it felt quicker than my car. Before I was set on a 944 I was looking at turbo'd, AWD DSMs.
07-21-2003, 12:02 PM
#23
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How they compare?
Well. What is a stock 951 1/4 mile time for one of you guys. Like, one of you driving..not the motor trend crap.
My friend just took a completely stock FWD Turbo Laser to the track, with a best of 15.4 on bad launches. It was his first time. oh well
I think his car could do a 15.0 or 15.1 with a good launch. Not bad for a 13 year old car.
- As far as the track goes? I have a friend that races in the SCAA. New shocks/springs/race tires/wheels and some go fast goodies. He doesnt do too bad..he might of even won them befor.
BUT they are front heavy. No 50/50 here.
- And I dont remember if i said this or not...the FWDs have much better high end. A LOT Less rotating mass and overall weight.
Well. What is a stock 951 1/4 mile time for one of you guys. Like, one of you driving..not the motor trend crap.
My friend just took a completely stock FWD Turbo Laser to the track, with a best of 15.4 on bad launches. It was his first time. oh well
I think his car could do a 15.0 or 15.1 with a good launch. Not bad for a 13 year old car.
- As far as the track goes? I have a friend that races in the SCAA. New shocks/springs/race tires/wheels and some go fast goodies. He doesnt do too bad..he might of even won them befor.
BUT they are front heavy. No 50/50 here.
- And I dont remember if i said this or not...the FWDs have much better high end. A LOT Less rotating mass and overall weight.
07-21-2003, 12:11 PM
#24
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Crankwalk mainly affects the second generation DSMs, and it usually happens around 75,000 miles. It can be prevented though. If you want a go-fast car on a budget, a first generation DSM is the way to go if you can find one that isn't beat to ****.
The engine itself, the 4G63, is a monster. Just like any of the comparable Japanese turbo engines of the time, it can take a ton of abuse and still go. However, the accessories that were used in the DSMs (p/s, a/c, etc.) were kinda sketchy...not the best quality.
If you want a sleeper...try finding a Galant VR4. AWD, 4G63 engine + 4 doors.
Hehe...found this a while ago.
The engine itself, the 4G63, is a monster. Just like any of the comparable Japanese turbo engines of the time, it can take a ton of abuse and still go. However, the accessories that were used in the DSMs (p/s, a/c, etc.) were kinda sketchy...not the best quality.
If you want a sleeper...try finding a Galant VR4. AWD, 4G63 engine + 4 doors.
Hehe...found this a while ago.
07-21-2003, 02:44 PM
#27
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I find that very hard to believe.
I can see "crankwalk" being an issue that stresses wrist pins, pistons, con rods/bearings, even cylinder walls, etc. But how can it get so bad that it'll interfere w/how the clutch works? What about the oil seals, how the crank sits on the main bearings, pulleys/belts on the other end of the engine, etc.???
Ahmet
I can see "crankwalk" being an issue that stresses wrist pins, pistons, con rods/bearings, even cylinder walls, etc. But how can it get so bad that it'll interfere w/how the clutch works? What about the oil seals, how the crank sits on the main bearings, pulleys/belts on the other end of the engine, etc.???
Ahmet
07-21-2003, 03:52 PM
#28
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Hmm...now that I think about it...I think you're right, Ahmet. I just copied and pasted the answer that was given above and didn't think much about it.
Crankwalk is when the crank moves back and forth in the engine...virtually destroying the entire motor...at least, with the 4G63 that's what happens.
Crankwalk is when the crank moves back and forth in the engine...virtually destroying the entire motor...at least, with the 4G63 that's what happens.
07-21-2003, 05:06 PM
#30
Race Director
The crankwalk on the DSM cars appears to be thrust washer issue. It shims the longitudinal movement of the crank down to a small enough amount so that the crank is free to spin, but not actually slide relative to the block.
On the 944s, we have a similar problem, more of a squiggle than a walk. Anyone who've had a 944 bottom end apart may notice that the one-piece bearing girdle has a locating dowel pin in the back to make sure the girdle and bearings are lined up with the block. But in the front, there's NO DOWEL! It only uses the bolts to locate the front of the girdle. So under high boost and RPM, I'm sure the crank can apply enough force to counteract the tension of the bolts and move that girdle around ever so little. I suspect this is related to the #2 rod-bearing issue and also why the front crank-bearing is usually more worn than the back one when you tear an engine apart.
Running 20-psi boost on a 951 is possible also. But you need the tuning a capability to make fine adjustments based upon LOAD vs RPM.. i.e. 3D-mapping.
''m
On the 944s, we have a similar problem, more of a squiggle than a walk. Anyone who've had a 944 bottom end apart may notice that the one-piece bearing girdle has a locating dowel pin in the back to make sure the girdle and bearings are lined up with the block. But in the front, there's NO DOWEL! It only uses the bolts to locate the front of the girdle. So under high boost and RPM, I'm sure the crank can apply enough force to counteract the tension of the bolts and move that girdle around ever so little. I suspect this is related to the #2 rod-bearing issue and also why the front crank-bearing is usually more worn than the back one when you tear an engine apart.
Running 20-psi boost on a 951 is possible also. But you need the tuning a capability to make fine adjustments based upon LOAD vs RPM.. i.e. 3D-mapping.
''m