My cylinder number 3 is toast. So after many days and nights of pondering what to do about it (ok it was more like 2 beers and 1 hour) I decided to give a try at building a 'new' engine for my 944 NA.

 

After toasting the 'dead' block with a beer.

 

I took the block from a 85.5 parts car down down and gave it a good bath.

 

So what I have to work with is the following:

1. engine from the car '86 NA
2. disassembled engine from a 85.5 parts car
3. a '83 parts car with the engine still in it

I plan to use the forged rods from the '83 as well as the inside headers. Already have forged outside headers piece from a '84 on the head.

I am in new territory here so any advice much appreciated.


michael

 

having only helped rebuild a small block chevy, I can only offer two pieces of advice.

patience.
measure 4 or 5 times, and cut once. This advice doesn't apply to just cutting things...

Good luck, and I'll be keeping up on this thread. Have a sad feeling I may be in this same boat soon.

 

Mark the orientation of *everything* and document as many things as you can with pictures and notes for each picture.

Invest in about 100 zip lock baggies and a sharpie. Bolts go here!

If you think it's critical and shouldn't be bought at Autozone/Kroger what have you, buy it from a reputable source, if not the dealer. Mostly I'm talking about seals and gaskets.

It's time for a clutch.

 

You can do it. Just take it slow. Torque setting for the crank and bearings are important. But all others just don't over tighten. The aluminum strips easily.
You will need a bottom end gasket set.
And top end.
New rings and bearings.
If you have a free $400 send off your crank to Lindsey and get it cross drilled.
The '83 crank might already have been done.
Also if you have some spare cash. Maybe some arp rod bolts and cylinder head studs.
Great time to replace those brittle vacuum lines. Might add another $200

Good luck.

 

I did my motor this summer, only thing I didn't do was main bearings and rings, here are a few things I should have done/did do.

When you put the parts/hardware in baggies, don't just write in the outside of the bag, write on a piece of paper an put it inside the bag.

I ordered everything from zims which was a lot of little seals, hardware, etc....they gave me a great price and had everything in stock, but they put all the little things in a plastic bag with no part numbers. It was a pain in the *** differentiating all the little seals. I should have asked if they would label what everything was.

The water pump studs are 968 oil pump studs.

Get a 1/4" inch lb torque wrench, and a 3/8" beam style torque wrench.

Find good local friends and bribe them/beg them to come over and help.

That's all I got for now, if I think of anything else I'll let you know. Good luck!

 

if you don't mind my asking..... why is the #3 cylinder toast ?

I assume we're talking about the angry lawnmower block that's been giving you fits the past couple of months.


oh, and my advice is put a good Detroit man to work and.....

 

LS1? Jk

 

If you can, get euro pistons. 20hp more without changing other things..

 

Its not a step by step tutorial but if you want some general advice and pictures, you can check out the articles on my website under Porsche 944-928/Orange 944 Track Car.

You'll want to get the shop manual on DVD/pdf. It is practically step by step, in its own way, and will have a torque value for everything important on the car.

If you take off the crank girdle, pay particular attention to the shop manual requirements for sealing the oil passageways and the oil pump. If you don't get this right, you'll never get a prime on your oil pump and will be getting a chance to tear it down again.

 

I've made a few videos on the subject, too. Search on youtube and you'll find them.

 

Good choice in beer! I live down the street from the Abita brewery

 

Wow, interested to know how changing to euro piston heads give you 20 more hp. Didn't know that trick.

Michael