Thaddeus

Hi. Trunk light doesn't light. Bulb is new (tried 2). There is power to the hot lead, the 2 grounding wires aren't completing the circuit. I suspect when the switch is in one position, the light is 'always on', in the other, 'on when hatch is open', middle = off. The light does not work in any of the 3 positions. Is there a relay somehwere that could be at fault? Where would I find it? Also, where is the switch that tells this light the hatch is open?

Studied the wiring schema in the Haynes manual, no help there.

TIA

Thaddeus

Thaddeus

By the way, my under-hood light doesn't work either. Perhaps a common problem?

TIA

Thaddeus

MadMax

Thaddeus,
Here's an odd tidbit for you. The underhood light WILL NOT work without the ignition in Position 1 or 2. How's that for odd. Your trunk light is another story. There is no relay. It's just simple switch. If you are hot at the light itself, I would suspect the plunger type switch (tells the light if the hatch is open or closed) or the light assembly itself. Play with both of them and you will likely find your problem. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

Thaddeus

I can't find a plunger switch! Perhaps that's the issue... (guffaw) Where on the hatch frame is it supposed to be mounted? I was thinking it might be inside the hole where the latch posts go in, but...

??????????????????

I am confused...

Thaddeus

PSUice944

Hmmm, no pluger switch on my hatch, it's a contact stitch on the passenger side support strut.

The strut is grounded and has this slider on there so when its closed, the circut is broken, when open, the contact is supposed to make the circut with the "plunger" rod of the strut, thus turning on the light.

But if this light isn't coming on in any position of the switch, or when you have the front doors open, then I dunno! Is the light housing getting power?

HTH

Thaddeus

Ah, the switch on the support strut! I will check. The light itself has 12v. Thanks!

Thaddeus

IceShark

I don't think there is a "plunger" switch for the rear hatch interior light. Mine went out some time ago and I never bothered to fix it because it is so worthless if you are fishing around back there for anything you need light for.

Anyway, one day I noticed that the electrical lead from the car interior to the base of the right hatch gas strut was broken. So I fixed it. Low and behold the hatch light started its worthless life again. I never bothered to figure out what the deal was, but if that connector is not connected the light won't work.

MadMax

Sorry Thaddeus, I have a Cabriolet and my car has a plunger switch. Didn't mean to give you bad info or make the situation confusing. From the sound of things PSUice944 has you pointed in the right direction. Good Luck and let us all know how it turns out.

Thaddeus

Yep, it's the switch on the lifter. There is a plastic shroud that slides down with the hydraulic tube and breaks the electrical contact by lifting a copper switch arm off the piston shaft. The copper arm is weak and doesn't spring down to make contact with the piston shaft as it should. A little shim, or some bending, should fix the problem.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. No issue too small...

Thaddeus

TomH

One other note about the under-hood light. It only comes on if you turn on your headlights. Says so in my manual. And it works as described. But why the hell should I have to turn on my headlights to work under the hood? Anyone got a good explanation for that piece of German engineering?

IceShark

My guess is because Porsche looked at it as an emergency type general illumination device for when you are on the road at night. You don't need the headlights on,BTW, just your parking lights. Also, if they allowed it to go on whenever the hood was open a lot of batteries would drain off for forgetful mechanics that left the hood open.

I replaced the stock light with one that puts out 30 watts or so, and it is still pretty lousy with shadows and such - you really need a flashlight.