A/F Gauge Install Part 2 - HELP!!!!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Tampa, FL - US of A
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Red face](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon11.gif)
Ok, I've got the A/F gauge installed, such as it is, but it doesn't seem to be working. This is an Autometer gauge, but it has 10 LEDs like the Huntley model.
When the car is warm, it seems to dither, but only 5 LED's light up (from lean to stoich). Even at full throttle and full boost, it only lights up 6 LED's (from lean to 1 richer than stoich).
I have a 3.0 bar FPR and a new O2 sensor, so I would think that I would be lighting up at least 8 of the LEDs at full throttle/boost. I want to install my new adjustable FPR, but think that I should get it the gauge to work correctly first. Is it possible that I am just not really running rich?
HELP - Autocross in the morning!!!
When the car is warm, it seems to dither, but only 5 LED's light up (from lean to stoich). Even at full throttle and full boost, it only lights up 6 LED's (from lean to 1 richer than stoich).
I have a 3.0 bar FPR and a new O2 sensor, so I would think that I would be lighting up at least 8 of the LEDs at full throttle/boost. I want to install my new adjustable FPR, but think that I should get it the gauge to work correctly first. Is it possible that I am just not really running rich?
HELP - Autocross in the morning!!!
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Tampa, FL - US of A
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Question](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
There is no violet wire in my harness. On the O2 sensor there is 1 black and 2 white. I know that the black is the signal to the DME, so I tapped into that one for the gauge input.
On the DME side, there is 1 brown, 1 large green, and one black wire. I think that the brown is the signal, but I can't tell for sure. I hooked up my ohm meter to it, but I was getting between .4 and .5 only. I know that this usually means that the O2 sensor is bad, but it is brand new. It must be the right one since I am getting some indications on the gauge itself.
I know that the power and ground wires are hooked up correctly because I used the same one that I use for the lights on my boost gauge. Of course, the light now have to be on before the A/F gauge works, but I am not complaining at this point. I'm sure that someone on the list will set me straight soon.
Thanks,
-Michael
On the DME side, there is 1 brown, 1 large green, and one black wire. I think that the brown is the signal, but I can't tell for sure. I hooked up my ohm meter to it, but I was getting between .4 and .5 only. I know that this usually means that the O2 sensor is bad, but it is brand new. It must be the right one since I am getting some indications on the gauge itself.
I know that the power and ground wires are hooked up correctly because I used the same one that I use for the lights on my boost gauge. Of course, the light now have to be on before the A/F gauge works, but I am not complaining at this point. I'm sure that someone on the list will set me straight soon.
Thanks,
-Michael
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#4
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm not sure why you are worried about the number of lights lit at any one time. The meter is just a LED voltmeter, so at a single voltage only one or two LEDs would be lit. You see multiple LEDs lit because the output of the O2 sensor is varying so quickly. When the engine is hot and idling, one or two LEDs' should be brightly lit and bounce back and forth from rich to lean. Under WOT about 5 LEDs will be lit around the range the O2 sensor is detecting. Hopefully this is all green with the autometer AFR gauge while under full boost. The number of LEDs lit at any given time is dependent on how much the voltage output of the O2 sensor dithers.