Cyberpunky

You want to use the Xovers that come with the splits not factory ones, as they are designed for the speakers. Does your rockford amp have a thru-put output ? If so you could get signal from that for your sub amp. If not maybe sub amp does ? anyway if you split anything I would do fronts as personally I would still want ability to turn down rears(fader) without effecting sub level
peace
Cyberpunky

azbanks

The factory wiring and the wiring diagram and working on the passenger side door had me confused. looking at the drivers side door confused me even more but ended up giving me the clue I needed to figure things out.

The factory wiring diagram shows:
Channel = Wire color
FL = White
RL = Yellow
FR = Black
RR = Red

The four wire plug connecting the wires going into the door mounted crossover(on the passenger side) has black wires and red wires going into the crossover so I ASSUMED(which caused my problem) the there was front and rear channel signal going into the crossover. There are the wires going out to the midrange speaker and the woofer but no wires going to the tweeter(that I could see based on my assumption). What was really odd was that there are red wires going into the tweeter. W T H!!! Why would Porsche run rear channel sound to the tweeters mounted in the front of the doors????

Even more odd was the fact that there are red wires going to the drivers side crossover and tweeter. W T H????? Why would they send RR channel sound to the LF speakers and tweeter???

Ok, that was my first clue that I was not seeing something. My first wrong assumption was that the wires from the plug were all going INTO the crossover. My second wrong assumption is that Porsche would not use these same colors for other things in the speaker wiring. The red wires aren't going INTO the crossover, they are going OUT to the tweeters through the same plug as the incoming channel. I just couldn't see that because of the sleeve around all the door wires. Now the three way crossover in the wiring diagram makes sense.


So this leads me to my next question.
The factory crossovers for the 10 speaker system are 3 way. Woofer, mid-range, and tweeter. The crossovers with the new speakers are just 2 way for the included woofer and tweeter. The issue is that I also have the co-ax Boston acoustics(mid-range and tweeter) Do I connect the mid-range/tweeters to the tweeter channel or the woofer channel of the crossover? There are two tweeter speaker wire connections on the crossover and just one woofer connection.

Or should I go back to the factory crossovers or buy new 3 way crossovers?

The single channel amp for the sub has a remote mount gain control ****. If I split the rear channel, can I use that remote gain control to control the volume of the sub? I know that is not really the "right" way to use the gain or control the volume for the sub. My question is if it will work or will it mess up the clarity of the sound coming from the sub?

azbanks

Stereo upgrade is almost done. A few cosmetic issues to finish after I get the steering wheel controls tied in with the remote and it will be complete.

10 Speaker grills powder coated to match the wheels, etc. Done!

In the end, I kept the factory crossovers and used RCA splitter cables to split the rear signal to feed the sub.

azbanks

A few more pics. It's hard to tell from these pics but the speaker grills, window switch surrounds and dash trim all match.

Everything is a little dusty from my off track experience on Saturday.

V2Rocket

So the splines matched up with that adapter OK?
How much did you have shortened?
How easy is the airbag to remove to tighten the wheel down?
What is the diameter of the wheel?

azbanks

The splines matched up perfectly. It was like it was made for this wheel.

I had a shop do the shortening job and they didn't measure how much they took off. I would guess around 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch.
It wasn't much to take off but it wasn't an easy job. The adapter was HARD. They had to switch to a much harder bit to get the job done.

The airbag is easy to remove. There is a small hole in the back of the wheel. You put a thin rod into that hole to press and release the tension that keeps the airbag clips hooked.

I don't know the exact diameter but I think it is 350.

azbanks

Finished the speaker grills. Install tomorrow and then the stereo system install is done.


Then I will either work in integrating the steering wheel controls or I will start on the engine swap.

culture

thats some careful quality work there az. Inetersting that you went that route with speakers. with the cab, you don't have to limit yourself to the under the armrest speakers. we can put 6 3/4" in the door. and you can fit a 10" bazooka in the rear and it takes up less room than a box.

culture

you may not be able to tell here, but i have 6.75'' separates in the door and 5.25" separates in the rear quarter panel. i don't have a pic, but i also put my amps in the space on the left side of the trunk where the rear side marker goes.

azbanks

I bought the hockey stick tape and wrapped the wires going back to the subs in the trunk. The tape was kind of dry and did not have much stick but I wrapped it well enough that it didn't matter.

Fast forward to yesterday. I was doing some wiring for the A-pillar gauge pod and came in contact with some of the wires wrapped in the hockey tape. It has turned EXTREMELY STICKY. Even the slightest touch results in contamination with the nastiest black glue goo imaginable. It's like tar but without heat. I'm thinking about trying to put some kind of powder on it to take up some of the stickiness.