Cheapest way to lower S2?
#1
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Thread Starter
Cheapest way to lower S2?
Is there an inexpensive way to lower an S2, say between $400 - $600?
I want to lower my cab and I don't know which route to take. Any advice is appreciated.
I want to lower my cab and I don't know which route to take. Any advice is appreciated.
#2
Nordschleife Master
Get some 1.5in Welt springs up front and go 1in bigger on your torsion bars at the back. New Welt springs, used torsion bars & 4-wheel alignment will be in your price range, if you don't do the work yourself it will be towards the upper end of your price range.
http://www.paragon-products.com/Lowe...elt_sp-200.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/Lowe...elt_sp-200.htm
#4
Nordschleife Master
#6
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Thread Starter
Chad, do you have a side shot with the camera at a lower angle?
Do you know what's involved with the eccentric adjustment?
re-indexing the tb sounds more complicated and not being able to get both sides equal can't be good right?
Do you know what's involved with the eccentric adjustment?
re-indexing the tb sounds more complicated and not being able to get both sides equal can't be good right?
#7
Rennlist Member
Contact drift 944, he lowered his car in the rear just reindexing the tb. I think he got 1" lower or more and in a thread he mentioned how many splines he moved the bars. I think one spline back on one bar and one forward on the other or something of that nature.
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#8
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Torsion bars are a real pain to get right. You can lower them without bigger tb's, mine was, but the ride was also pretty hard. I raised it back to stock height last year so that I could drive the car without hammering it to pieces.
#9
Nordschleife Master
1. The car already has understeer from the factory
2. You are adding more understreer with stiffer front springs
3. You are adding even more understeer by lowering the front 1-1/2in
The eccentric will maybe give you 3/4in lowering at the rear but without changing the torsion bars and reindexing your car will lose some of its good handling characteristics.
Yes it's a pain but not really complicated, just have to read and understand what you are doing beforehand. The first time you do it you end up doing it twice so it normally takes all day. Plenty of write-ups on how to do it and it can be done without a lift on jack stands. Plus it's very satisfying getting it right and a sort of right of passage on our cars . GL
#10
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I would suggest taking care of the rubber while you're in there. Spring plate and trailing arm bushings could probably use some attention. The eccentrics are slight adjustments. Basically, if the torsion bars aren't perfectly lined up, the eccentrics can be used to level the car.
#14
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This isn't really the way to go.
1. The car already has understeer from the factory
2. You are adding more understreer with stiffer front springs
3. You are adding even more understeer by lowering the front 1-1/2in
The eccentric will maybe give you 3/4in lowering at the rear but without changing the torsion bars and reindexing your car will lose some of its good handling characteristics.
1. The car already has understeer from the factory
2. You are adding more understreer with stiffer front springs
3. You are adding even more understeer by lowering the front 1-1/2in
The eccentric will maybe give you 3/4in lowering at the rear but without changing the torsion bars and reindexing your car will lose some of its good handling characteristics.
Veleno you won't notice anything on the street... Unless you're a professional driver or you're tracking your car you won't feel a difference. My car is lowered like 1.5" up front with 200# springs (coilover sleeve kit) and by the spring plate adjust 3/4" in rear and it looks nice and feels better than stock to me... I did get staggered wheels as well.
So things adding to my understeer:
-staggered wheels (7.5f 9r)
-stiffer front suspension
I was under the impression that having the car lower in front than rear will add oversteer, somewhat compensating for the understeer.
Either way, the car feels super tight on the street and I probably have understeer but that's safer anyway unless you're stupid and reckless on the roads. I've done some hard cornering and it feels great with my setup.
Mine was $265 for the paragon coil kit, +$ new front struts, free to adjust the rear,+$$ for alignment including -2* camber all round.
Last edited by Butters944; 09-01-2013 at 07:05 PM.
#15
Nordschleife Master
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-15.htm
You are quite correct though, on the street you really won't feel much of a difference and it will probably feel just as good as stock. I was just adding technicalities to the mix