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Water pump and oil pressure etc.

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Old 06-30-2013, 10:57 AM
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mhr
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Default Water pump and oil pressure etc.

Back story I started the car this spring drove a while and then lost all oil pressure. This has led me down the road of taking half the car apart.

To date I have dropped the oil pan to check the pickup and while it was off changed the rod bearings and seals. Re installed the pan and saw a nice active leak coming from the front of the pan. Actually was coming from on top of the pan so Last night local rennlister eric951turbo came to my place and we took off the belts and covers to take look. Water pump (4 years old and 15k miles old rebuild from vertex ) is toast see attached photos of the pump with the leak evident and second picture of the mess below it. Sorry that the photos are upside down can't get rennlist to post it right side up today.

QUESTION 1:I am curious if anyone would know if there could be a relation between a bad water pump and no oil pressure. Even more on my mind is could a bad leaking water pump destroy the oil pump in any way?

I ask because although although I am quite sure my OPRV was not properly aligned I am not sure that is my oil pressure problem. I pulled the seal and oil pressure drive sleeve last night because I will change them but they really looked perfect.

QUESTION 2: The balance shaft seals were changed 2 years ago and they really look perfect (see 3rd photo). I am thinking of just leaving them alone as they look good and there is always that chance I will screw up the installation. Opinions on this?

Opinions / Help appreciated

thanks
Mark
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:32 PM
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mytrplseven
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The only ways I can see oil and water mixing is via defective head gasket (not likely) or leaky oil cooler seals. Do you see any evidence of water on the dipstick or oil in the coolant reservoir? How did you determine the OPRV was not in straight? If a seal on this thing fails, I'm not sure if the oil pressure goes to zero or goes high. When the oil pressure failed on you, did you hear clattering of the lifters or did you just get a warning light and the gauge going to zero?
Old 06-30-2013, 06:51 PM
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mhr
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There was clattering and I changed the oil and filter and the new filter stayed dry. No question there was actually no oil pressure. I did not see any evidence of oil and coolant mixing. Just no oil pressure.

I determined the alignment problem using the alignment tool which I could not screw in. After I found one of the 4 bolts holding in the filter/cooler console was loose.

My concern is if my oil pump is bad and if the bad water pump increases the likelihood of that.

thanks
Old 06-30-2013, 08:33 PM
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seafeye
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I just recently took apart my oil pump. Can't see how it could fail unless chunks of metal went in there and took out the vane. As long as the crank is turning so should the oil pump. But...
The crank bolt has to be properly torqued.
There is no key to hold the oil pumps gear. If you lose the crank bolt you will not have a working oil pump. I'm sure you know this. The water pump is really independent of the oil pump. Except that both are driven by the crank. I can't see how one has anything to do with the other.
Old 06-30-2013, 11:04 PM
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mhr
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Thanks
anyone have opinions re the seals
Old 07-01-2013, 12:01 AM
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mytrplseven
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If your balance shaft seals are not leaking, then move on to the real problem. You said the pump sleeve was in good shape and if you properly installed the sleeve and seals (including the little green one) then all you need to do is tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 155 ft. lbs. If your pump itself if fouled or broken, you'll lose oil pressure. At this point, if it was me, I'd pull the oil pump and give the whole system a good inspection and replace any seals you can while it's apart.
Old 07-01-2013, 08:20 AM
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mhr
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So if I understand clarks I have to drop the oil pan to reinstall the oil pump. Oh JOY
Old 07-01-2013, 08:40 AM
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seafeye
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Happy Canada Day!

Looks like you already have the pulleys off. Your half way there. Looking at it again and i am thinking the oil pan will have to come off. Ugh is right. Might as well do the connecting rod bearings while you are in there.
When taking the oil pump apart. You have to remove 2 allen screws. Then the gears will come apart. You may not be able to see the screws because of the old sealant. Just scape it off.
Maybe go down to Canadian tire and buy a 12"x12" tile. Something really hard like marble. Then some 2000 grit sandpaper. THis will come in handy for lapping the oil pump. Lap the gears and then reassemble. Use this gasket sealant to secure to the block.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...gasket+sealers
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Last edited by seafeye; 07-01-2013 at 09:15 AM.
Old 07-01-2013, 09:20 AM
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mhr
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Thanks for the info. And the Canada day wishes. I will dig in and see where I get.

Why the permatex stuff vs the Locktite 574 that Clarks and others recommend.
Old 07-01-2013, 10:38 AM
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seafeye
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It's an alternative. Ian at 944 online recommended it to me. Easy to apply and works great.

Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound is a hard
setting, slow drying liquid designed to coat, seal and repair
most gaskets including felt, paper, rubber and composition
type gaskets. It seals metal gaskets and threaded
connections for light duty service. Indian Head Gasket
shellac is a dark brown, viscous liquid with a characteristic
alcoholic odor.

PRODUCT BENEFITS
• Flexible when dry
• Good fuel resistance
• Improves reliability
• Saves time and labor
• Increases sealing reliability
• Applies easily
• Cleans up fast
• Temperature Range -65ºF to +350ºF
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
• Economical sealant for general assembly work
• Useful on paper, composition, felt and cardboard
• Hose connections
• Threaded connections
Old 07-01-2013, 11:07 AM
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Mueller944s2
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You don't have to drop the oil pan to change the pump.

And as for Vertex, they sold me a powersteering rack that was a piece of crap and wouldn't stand behind it. I now avoid them like the plague.

Last edited by Mueller944s2; 07-01-2013 at 05:51 PM.
Old 07-01-2013, 11:20 AM
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jeffrsmith
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I am surprised that no one has mentioned the possibility of a cracked/broken oil pick-up tube.

Nevermind, I should properly read the entire post prior to posting - after posting I re-read the post and noticed that you already addressed this issue.
Old 07-01-2013, 05:54 PM
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mhr
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got the oil pump off. To get it off I had to remove the power steering pump hanger so I guess I will be changing the lower balance shaft seal and o rings. Funny thing is there did not seem to be a woodruff key on the balance shaft. I will look on the floor carefully to see if it could have just fallen off but if it is anything like the one on the main crank it takes effort to get it off. If I don't find it wouldn't that have made the engine shake?

How easily should the pump turn. Mine is quite hard to turn. Will pull it apart and take a look.

Mark
Old 07-01-2013, 06:05 PM
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mhr
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I just found the woodruff key on the floor. Guess it wasn't in very tightly. On to pump deconstruction
Old 07-01-2013, 06:37 PM
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mhr
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does this look ok?

Going to take apart and clean
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