hrk

Skip wrote:

Skip
User
User # 71
User Rated:

posted 08-23-2001 14:47
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To get the inner tie-rod off you'll need a small cold chisel to break off the dimple(locks the two pieces together. Be careful not to marr it up too bad. Once you knock the dimple off, you can unscrew the pieces... it's on there pretty tight, and you should do this with the rack out of the car so you can use a vice to hold the rack rod... turning against the rack internals can cause damage. I use a 10" bench vise with some rubber to protect the metal and a large crescent wrench to turn the end off. When reinstalling, get the rod tight, then re-dimple the nut end into the notch with a punch.
I have a picture somewhere that I'll try to locate.

Also, use a screw type ball joint remover to pop the tie-rod ends out... not a pickle fork. And, do NOT use the "beat-it-with-a-hammer" method... you can break the casting and have to replace the whole spindle assembly.

Good Luck!

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So is this impossible to do while rack is in the car? Has anybody succeeded in removing tie rods without removing rack. I know how annoying this universal joint in the steering axle is but I don't know how difficult it would be with power steering connections, and frankly I wouldn't care to find out unless forced.

hrk
-86 951

Skip

Hey, that's ME!

I've actually learned a bit more since then (no "old dog" jokes )

The rack DOES_NOT have to be removed from the car to remove the inner tie-rods. There's an obscure little notched area on the end of the shaft gearing teeth. This is there to put a wrench on (24mm I *think*) to counter the effects of torque when turning the tie rod off (32mm I *think*). Hopefully they_all have this... I've not seen one that doesn't yet (out of 4 or so). The reason you don't turn the tie-rod inner against the pressure of the rack shaft is that it may cause further damage to the seals, gears, or shaft (unlikely).

Also, the tie-rod ends MAY be removed with a pickle-fork, IF you are replacing them. The pickle-fork can damage the boots, which is why I don't recommend it in cases of removing the rack when the rod ends may be reused.

Good Luck!

sam

Interesting! Have you ever heard of the tie rod working itself free from the rack gear stuff? I seem to have some play on the passenger side, and am curious if the thing is un-screwing itself from the rack.

I'll probably peel the boot back this weekend and take a look.

Skip

Unlikely, *if* it was installed properly the last time. It's hard to get the torque spec right on this (61 ftlb)... at least for me, I use a large Crescent Wrench to snug it up, then dimple the flat to lock it in. If the flat was not dimple, or the torque not even close, then it *could* work loose. Doubtful, and if actually coming from the rack is more likely the tie-rod ball-socket or tie-rod end. Neither are high failure items, but both are subject to wear. If you are experiencing problems from the front end there are many things to check... let us know if you require more direction. Have you checked the A-arm ball joint lately?

Good Luck!

hrk

Thanks Skip,
Because my PPI claimed inner tierod joints were bad I bought both rods to change them before alignment.
I was mentally prepared to do this yesterday, took boots off and wobbled front wheels and only play I could see or feel there was due to rack vertical movement within assembly. No slack on joints at all or leakage from power steering. I put boots back on and I am looking for a tigher rack to put the new rods on and repalce whole assembly. I think I might wait a little bit on this because there isn't that much play at all, at least in legal speeds.