New Guy Questions ;) - kevlar timing belt...
06-20-2013, 09:56 PM
#46
The "made in USA" belt is your power steering belt. The "made in Mexico" belt is your alternator/compressor belt. Your timing and balance shaft belts are inside the timing belt cover, which is held on by many 10mm bolts.
06-21-2013, 01:07 AM
#47
Late Porkchops
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can you guys believe I waited this many months to.....
forget all that.... .
if you want to go real, REAL FAST, there's no way to do it short of a $25,000~35,000 turbo build.
and even then, when you run it, you'll have decent top end but no torque and be thirsting for more power......
and on your first day back to the dyno tuner, you'll burn through the #2 rod bearing and BOOMMM !!!!!
the solution is to think big....
smart minds, supercar, nirvana, bulletproof NASA billet aluminum parts and Mr. Goodwrench......
.
forget all that.... .
if you want to go real, REAL FAST, there's no way to do it short of a $25,000~35,000 turbo build.
and even then, when you run it, you'll have decent top end but no torque and be thirsting for more power......
and on your first day back to the dyno tuner, you'll burn through the #2 rod bearing and BOOMMM !!!!!
the solution is to think big....
smart minds, supercar, nirvana, bulletproof NASA billet aluminum parts and Mr. Goodwrench......
.
06-21-2013, 01:17 AM
#48
Late Porkchops
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Now go get this job done before some real problems crop up. Check every hose while it is off. Put new ones where you can. You will thank me later.
06-21-2013, 01:59 AM
#49
Question... So after chatting with the mechanic. The timing belt and water pump would cost $1800 if I have them do it. How difficult of a job is it really to do this? From what the guy said it just takes quite some time. I'm no mechanic but I'm also not a dumbass. I've seen a few tutorials on how to do it. Just wanted to ask u guys on the degree of difficulty to git r done. I'd love to learn to work on the car myself and saving that cash for future upgrades/repairs sounds pretty damn good to me
06-21-2013, 08:18 AM
#51
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with the exception of the most expensive auto repair markets, it shouldn't cost more than about 1400 for labor and parts in most parts of the country.... get your belts (Gates) from Autohaus AZ. shop around for rollers/tensioner at German Autoparts (upstate NY), Autohaus, Paragon or Zims, and your H20 pump from Zims.
these are Van's video tutorials....
when I had my belts/rollers/tensioner/H20 pump done recently, I got the roller whine sound that Van is talking about in the 3rd video..... I assume that my belts were a little on the tight side. I hope the initial tightness of the belts hasn't shortened the lifespan of the H20 pump and the roller bearings.... anyway, after about 6 k miles, the whine is gone... I assume the normal belt stretch has got things just about right, now.... so, i'm not going to bother with retensioning.
.
these are Van's video tutorials....
when I had my belts/rollers/tensioner/H20 pump done recently, I got the roller whine sound that Van is talking about in the 3rd video..... I assume that my belts were a little on the tight side. I hope the initial tightness of the belts hasn't shortened the lifespan of the H20 pump and the roller bearings.... anyway, after about 6 k miles, the whine is gone... I assume the normal belt stretch has got things just about right, now.... so, i'm not going to bother with retensioning.
.
Last edited by odurandina; 06-21-2013 at 08:53 AM.
06-21-2013, 09:46 AM
#52
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I have been running the gates kevlar belt since I got this 944, what about 3 years now. I havent read through all this thread but it has been pointed out in the past that if our cars were being made today they would be equipment with such a belt from the factory. No one can know for sure of course. But the timing belt is the most important part of the engine staying intact. I'm a cheap Porsche owner, and I strongly recommend the kevlar belt.
Michael
Michael
06-22-2013, 04:56 AM
#54
Drifting
It's not hard to do it yourself. I've done it many times now and it's pretty easy actually.
However you need to have some tools. you need a torque wrench that goes to 160ft-lbs to torque the crankshaft bolt. and you need an inch pound torque wrench to torque the water pump bolts. Then you need the flywheel lock to remove the crank bolt, and belt tensioner wrench, and balance shaft holder tool. I think you can buy all three from arnnworx, that is where I got mine from.
if you are mechanically inclined you do not need a timing belt tensioner tool. I bought one from arnworx and it did not work for me. I also have the cheap "cricket" and it is okay. there are instructions online on how to tension. search water pump method for example. you can tension it so you can barely turn the water pump by hand and that should be pretty close.
Other than that one issue you may run into is that the water pump bolts may have rusted to the block and they break easily. first time I did the water pump I stripped every thread in the block when I removed the bolts. I had to helicoil them which wasn't too hard but time consuming as I had to remove the radiator also to get more room.
but it isn't a bad job at all compared to other cars. There is lots of room to work and pretty straight forward. you just need some of the special tools and to take our time. www.clarks-garage.com is what I use. Torque specs for everything are also listed there.
However you need to have some tools. you need a torque wrench that goes to 160ft-lbs to torque the crankshaft bolt. and you need an inch pound torque wrench to torque the water pump bolts. Then you need the flywheel lock to remove the crank bolt, and belt tensioner wrench, and balance shaft holder tool. I think you can buy all three from arnnworx, that is where I got mine from.
if you are mechanically inclined you do not need a timing belt tensioner tool. I bought one from arnworx and it did not work for me. I also have the cheap "cricket" and it is okay. there are instructions online on how to tension. search water pump method for example. you can tension it so you can barely turn the water pump by hand and that should be pretty close.
Other than that one issue you may run into is that the water pump bolts may have rusted to the block and they break easily. first time I did the water pump I stripped every thread in the block when I removed the bolts. I had to helicoil them which wasn't too hard but time consuming as I had to remove the radiator also to get more room.
but it isn't a bad job at all compared to other cars. There is lots of room to work and pretty straight forward. you just need some of the special tools and to take our time. www.clarks-garage.com is what I use. Torque specs for everything are also listed there.
06-22-2013, 08:30 AM
#55
Rennlist Member
The belt intervals change by the mechanic and person you talk to. I have been around these cars a long time and have alway heard (until this thread) 4 years or 40 k. I am almost 4 years and 8 k miles and my belts look new.
As for mods. I would recommend getting the suspension sorted first then go on to power. I am extremely happy with my setup. It consists of a good modern chip ( I would only go rogue or vitesse), 3 inch exhaust, 3 bar fpr, and manual boost controller set to just under 15 psi. The car has plenty of power and should be rock solid. I also have a tial 46 mm waste gate, but this an overkill and the stock unit shimmed is ok ( not great, but works).
As for mods. I would recommend getting the suspension sorted first then go on to power. I am extremely happy with my setup. It consists of a good modern chip ( I would only go rogue or vitesse), 3 inch exhaust, 3 bar fpr, and manual boost controller set to just under 15 psi. The car has plenty of power and should be rock solid. I also have a tial 46 mm waste gate, but this an overkill and the stock unit shimmed is ok ( not great, but works).
06-22-2013, 12:15 PM
#56
Late Porkchops
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^^^^
It might be different when you KNOW when and what mileage the belt and Wp etc were changed. This one has likely been some time ago. He has a low mile car and it would be Ugly to have something happen with his "new" car . You know how it is - at any given time here there are several " OMG I cant beleive it - Why is my engine broken - And now I cant fix it " threads going on here.
It might be different when you KNOW when and what mileage the belt and Wp etc were changed. This one has likely been some time ago. He has a low mile car and it would be Ugly to have something happen with his "new" car . You know how it is - at any given time here there are several " OMG I cant beleive it - Why is my engine broken - And now I cant fix it " threads going on here.
06-22-2013, 12:41 PM
#57
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good points....
the thing that you get for doing it right the first time is no worries about what was done when.....
instead you get 55~60 k miles or 5 years of peace of mind.
whichever comes first.... at least until the headgasket goes.
if I bought a 944T tomorrow, the first thing i'd do after getting the belts, H20 pump and hoses sorted -- is run distilled water and a full sized bottle of Blue Devil headgasket sealer for a few days before draining 1/2 the mixture and adding the antifreeze... then, with the antifreeze i'd add a small bottle of Blue Devil and keep it in there full time.
the thing that you get for doing it right the first time is no worries about what was done when.....
instead you get 55~60 k miles or 5 years of peace of mind.
whichever comes first.... at least until the headgasket goes.
if I bought a 944T tomorrow, the first thing i'd do after getting the belts, H20 pump and hoses sorted -- is run distilled water and a full sized bottle of Blue Devil headgasket sealer for a few days before draining 1/2 the mixture and adding the antifreeze... then, with the antifreeze i'd add a small bottle of Blue Devil and keep it in there full time.
06-27-2013, 02:20 PM
#60
Racer
Thread Starter
The paperwork was interesting to go by and even see the ebay and excellence magazine listing when it was sold. It was maintained well and had the work done at 30,00 miles and like I said again at 45K probably because 20 years went by.
The items I see of interest are:
Porsche factory European race software: Porsche Escort qualifying chips. (How good are these?)
Limited rear slip differential (I don't know if this is standard or an option?)
K&N Air Filter. (nothing big, but an upgrade)
But now I can proceed with things feeling comfortable with timing belt.
The items I see of interest are:
Porsche factory European race software: Porsche Escort qualifying chips. (How good are these?)
Limited rear slip differential (I don't know if this is standard or an option?)
K&N Air Filter. (nothing big, but an upgrade)
But now I can proceed with things feeling comfortable with timing belt.