TheAllusionist

Thank you for the info.

Yummybud924

I think a kevlar belt is a waste of money. I just change everything including the water pump every three years. I just got a timing belt kit from paragon for $220 plus shipping, and it includes a gates belt which is a good quality belt. and I am getting rebuilt water pump from the dealer for 145. i'd rather have some kind of heavy duty water pump with tougher bearing than a stronger belt.

Darwantae951

Zims sells their rebuilt water pumps for ~$90. I have used them many times and their quality is great. If you end up having a problem with it, they will ship you another, and send you a shipping label to ship the old one back so they can inspect it and rebuild it.

Yummybud924

I ordered my pump from the dealer because I didn't feel like shipping my used pump to get the core charge back.

also I ordered my parts including my bilstein shocks/ struts from paragon because zims only carries stock and kybs.

Todd951968

I've always changed belts at 5 year intervals and they look great when taken off. But, then I only have about 15k miles on them during this period. I think the 5 year or 30k miles rule of thumb is safe enough and makes the most economic sense. Especially, if you are paying expensive labor for it. If you do the work yourself, parts are cheap, so it may be OK to do it sooner.

TheAllusionist

OK, so this is a bit off topic, for a street car where you want your A/C to work etc. is there a particular turbo upgrade that is the best? I figure you would do a matching chip/turbo/exaust/air sensors (MAF?), I am new to turbos, so I am playing catchup. I am a fan of Super Chargers, but they seem to be really expensive and this is a low mileage car, not going to mod the hell out of it, would buy something with a lot of miles and mod it if I was going to do that. Basically there are a lot of claims in turbos and chip sets and I was just wondering if there were one or two that were heads and shoulders above the rest.

odurandina

the H20 pumps that Porsche is making nowadays are manufactured in Mexico. they don't seem to last as long as what came (from the factory) on my 968 20 years ago. the original pump was still working fine at 114 K miles but the second pump began to fail at 61 k miles so it came off immediately. other owners are reporting short service life on recent oem replacement pumps. the interval for all the parts you're looking at are all close. as mentioned 60 k miles is was time to do the timing and balance shaft belts anyway. the parts included a Zims rebuilt pump, 2 Gates belts, ps belt (my ac delete belt had recently been installed), lower hose and full set of rollers/tensioner (the bearings were all shot). I run the upper radiator hose for 2x as long as the lower hose which takes a considerable beating. I wouldn't recommend keeping the lower hose on for more than 1 timing belt cycle.

if you don't tune your turbo engine past 300~325 hp, you should be ok. there are exceptions with experienced tuners, but mostly, bad things will not be long away from happening; including multiple blown head gaskets and replacing 25 year old engines.

TheAllusionist

Here is my other fun car, take the presentation with a sense of humor and not seriousiness:

Fact Sheet:

Name: Whiplash!

Make: Chevy

Model: FleetMaster Coupe

Year: 1947

Body: 1947 Chevy Body

Chasis: Pre-1963 Chevy Corvette front-end on modified frame rails.

Rear-end: 9" Ford with quick change pumpkin. 3.25 street 4.11 strip.

Transmission: B&N Turbo 350 Racing with Hi-Stall torque convertor paired to B&N ratchet racing shifter.

Engine: 1967.5 Large journal Corvette Fuelie small block 327 (this is the legendary 375 hp minus the fuel injections system), with 492 heads, headers, Competition Racing Cam, Victor Jr Hi-rise single plane manifold and Holley 600CFM vacuum secondaries for street and 750 double pumper for strip.

Ok so I talk about myself in the third person and my car has a name, all part of coming from a rural town not a city and summers nights spent on 'The Ave' and showdowns at each stop light. Actually only when the 'Vintiques' show was in town and street legal race cars where in town did I get many challengers (I will tell you about the ****** riding a wheelie some time, needless to say, he won!), most nights it was the dad with the kids in a station wagon revving the engine next to me, most muscle cars limped away slowly from the light

TexasRider

You are opening up a whole nother world there. Yes there are turbos, but you will be looking at more than a turbo. A MAF, an ignition, more exhaust, more clutch ..... and a bunch more money.

When your stock 951 car is in tip top mechanical shape it will hit 150 plus and only be about 10 mph down on a track straight to other new and fast cars . Say 130 for you max to their 140. You will need better brakes .

You can go to Vittesse or to Lindsey . They can help you . They take credit cards too .

But you might want to be aware that reliablity is out the window and maintainance just moved in to your garage too. You are better off with two cars because the one will be down a lot.

One reason a lot guys move to a 911 or GT3 etc is that a GT 951 or F Class will eat you alive in maintainance.

You will see this more though .

odurandina

if you're going to all that trouble, mate that **** to a 3.0.

TheAllusionist

OK, OK, I had to ask I will just restore and enjoy!

TexasRider

There is fast, expensive, and even more expensive and demanding in the German and Italian car world.

Pick any two you prefer .

TheAllusionist

So I looked under the hood and tried to see if I could make out anything on the belts and water pump at lunch. I see two belts with shiny white lettering one says made in Mexico and the other says made in the USA, so I am thinking they aren't the original belts. I called previous owners local mechanic and they haven't changed the timing belt, so the original owner may have done it 7,000 miles ago? Or the Dr. just didn't know he had it done? Want to figure it out as I don't want to throw money away. Or I am looking at wrong belts.

odurandina

can you guys believe I waited this many months to.....









forget all that.... .

if you want to go real, REAL FAST, there's no way to do it short of a $25,000~35,000 turbo build.

and even then, when you run it, you'll have decent top end but no torque and be thirsting for more power......

and on your first day back to the dyno tuner, you'll burn through the #2 rod bearing and BOOMMM !!!!!


the solution is to think big....

smart minds, supercar, nirvana, bulletproof NASA billet aluminum parts and Mr. Goodwrench......

.

TheAllusionist

NICE! To rich for me!