Very clean. I have same combo(Guards Red/Black with script trim) but with sports seats. You can tell from the side bolsters that yours are regular seats. Your interior looks perfect too

As stated above first thing is replace fuel lines to prevent a possible fire, do the belts, water pump, and then any stuff as required. I'd replace all the front rubber before you go modding front suspension because if the rubber is all original, it will well passed use by date, and replacing that alone could make a big improvement. Better to move slowly and do things right than rush and end up wasting money on wrong set up
peace
Cyberpunky

 

Welcome and congrats on your purchase. It looks like you found a stunning example. As far as fog light lenses go there pretty expensive unless you can find a nice used set somewhere. We do offer a few different suspension options, for more information Click Here. If you have any question or concerns feel free to PM. Enjoy and happy motoring

 

Things I would do:

1. Leave the torsion bar in
2. Coil overs are a plus, have the new springs tunes to include the torsion bar spring rate
3. See my Sig for additional details as to additional bits an pieces
4. Paragon is very recommended for a suspension parts source

(hey wait. Where'd my sig go? - let me fix that - gotta pay dues for that :-) )

 

So guys after reading some threads on suspension mods I'd like to do quite a bit, I'm really wanting to lower the car. Should I do coilovers or springs with shocks? And I'm still debating between 17" or 18" for wheels. Really love the HRE vintage 505's but damn they are expensive. Also what kind of brake upgrades are usually done to these cars. Thanks guys

 

I agree on the paragon bit, but using coilovers with torsion bars gives you all the bad parts of both without any of the good.

Coilovers:
Easily ride height adjustment
Makes major repairs easier (easy to unload suspension)
Easy to swap spring rate
Expensive

Torsion bar:
Cheaper
More difficult to swap
Pain to change ride height


Both:
Expensive
Difficult to change ride height
Difficult to change spring rate
Still have to reindex on first install

The only reason I can think to run both, would be on a track monster with extremely high spring rates. Going 100% coilover is the same price, easier to install, and easier to adjust.

 

I would take advantage of your early offset and install a 17 with a nice lip. The right 18s can look good, but 17s are where it is at in my opinion.

As far as springs vs coilovers, my opinion is above. Coilovers are mre than you need to spend but do simplify things. I was young and single when I bought mine so my budget was flexible . If I were doing it today, I would be more conservative.

 

Why do u say 17's is where it's at? Just curious... Also if going with springs and shocks will be very sporty I'm fine with that, especially if it's cheaper. I saw the Koni package is roughly $1500, do I still need springs with that?

 

I think 17s are the best balance for these cars. They look, ride, and handle right. some 18s can look good but some look too large.

Which package are you looking at?

 

Ya I think ur right... 18's got to be the right design. I'd really like to find some old school racing designs kinda like the Ferrari F40.

 

There is some pretty good advice posted already here.

The main thing I would add is that you can use the stock swaybars if you get the spring rates right. Paragon is a really good resource. Also, you could talk straight to the man: Karl Poeltl at Racer's Edge is probably the expert in 944 suspensions and upgrades.

Be careful about going too low on the stock front A-arms. The ball joints will fail if you do. Also, the 1986 turbo spindles cannot handle tracking, but I think they are ok for street use. Brakes are fine for track or street, although at that age they made need to be rebuilt. If they do, source some S2 calipers and rebuild those for half the money in parts, then sell the original calipers.

So, bottom line, I'd be spending my money on switching out the torsion bars for coilovers, and a matched set of struts up front. Probably the paragon/koni kit is your best bang for the buck, although I went with LEDA's through Karl. Also, bushings especially the caster blocks. To me, the biggest thing you can do for the handling is to raise the spring rates.

That will get you started down the slippery slope, and is just a little over 2 grand in parts. Don't forget labor if you're not doing the t-bar delete yourself.

 

I've heard from a number of people that have removed the torsion bars and gone to 100% coil overs in the rear are ripping the rear shock mounts out. So I'd be careful on that one. I kept mine torsion bars in, and Paragon complimented the torsion bar spring rate with a coil overs in the rear. I've found no detriment to handling, and I know that it's spreading the load over multiple points to the chassis.

Of course, I'm putting additional load and strain on the suspension and chassis as I'm tracking the car in Porsche club DEs and am using R compound tires. Personal best, the data system has recorded 1.2 G lateral peak with no ill effects.

 

I wouldn't even bother with coilovers on a street car. Fit 220# regular aftermarket springs up front, 1in lower with Koni dampers and up the rear torsion bars to match. Fit 968 M030 sways front and rear, new bushes and enjoy.

17" wheels look perfect, 18's just add weight and not really advisable on 86 spindles & hubs. Turbo brakes are absolutely fine unless you plan on a 350hp+ future upgrade.

Coilovers are a real pain on a street car. If you like tweaking the height don't forget you need add the cost of an alignment every time you tweak $$$'s. Plus once you get the height correct with coilovers you probably will never touch them again, which sort of negates the objective of coilovers.

 

I disagree and find coilovers to be awesome for my street car. When you go on a road trip or into town where you know there will be rougher streets you can raise the car to stock height so you don't bottom out, and when you're around town or going to a show you can lower it to get the look you want. And you definitely don't need a re alignment after adjusting coilovers..

 

I would contribute the observation that you'd have to be very careful and count the number of turns (more like 1/4 turns) on the spring perches when you change the ride height so that you can get back to the corner balanced adjustments.

But if you don't corner balance, then much less of a concern.

I'd further contribute that corner balanced car is really worth the effort and expense. Nothing feels as perfectly balanced, as well glued to the road and consistent turning effort and adhesion between right and left turns as a corner balanced 944. It's truly automotive magic.

 

You do sir if you want your tires to wear evenly. Any change in height will change the camber, every time.