Van

You can't pull the crank out unless it's disconnected from the flywheel and/or the clutch is disconnected from the driveshaft.

Van

Paulyy

You may as well get an oil pan baffle too.

JFreeman

Under 500 miles between oil changes would be a safe bet. 10w-30 is what i have been running in it. I do not want to pull the crank, just want to know if I can pull the cradle and possibly replace the main bearings. Except for that full round one in the front, not sure how one would change that with the crank still in the motor. So is the next step checking main bearings then the oil pump?

VirginiaF1

So 10w-30 at 6700 prolonged rpm's...
Thx for the data.
Best wishes for a speedy recovery mate.

BikePilot

Fair enough, but shavings that stick to a magnet are from something steel/iron and generally plain bearings won't make shavings. The oil pump maybe?

HICKS

Here's some rod bearing. Took these the other day.

BikePilot

Wow, nasty. I've only managed to make powder from destroyed rod bearings.

StoogeMoe

We found the source of the problem. Never run 30 weight oil in these engines.

Mueller944s2

Here's my #3 rod bearing

CyCloNe!

Wow yep good time to change them.... Did you pull the crank?

JFreeman

So I took some pics. There is a "dust" like substance in the oil pan, does not stick to the magnet, but there was a different color "dust" floating in the oil in the pan which seemed to follow my magnet. Also took a pic of #4 rod bearing which seemed to be the worst looking one, which does not look bad considering what is in the oil. Still wondering if I can pull the crankshaft cradle with the crank still in the car. The glare on the rod bearing makes it look worse than it is. The only sign of wear is the line in the center where some debris went through. The rest of the bearing is one solid color.

Mueller944s2

The girdle itself can come off but you'll want to pull the crank to get to the main bearings, so you'll need to pull the engine. You're gonna want to pull it anyway to flush all this crap out of it. How's the crank looking at #4? Any scratches?

mytrplseven

I agree with Mueller. If you've got this much metal contamination, you're kidding yourself if you think you can fix this without a good boil out of the block to clean out all of the contaminants. It's time to rebuild or replace the motor. Give it a good inspection of the cylinder walls and pistons as well while it's apart, as well as all the other components that are exposed to lubrication.

VirginiaF1

Forgive my ignorance but what is #1 a picture of?
If forced an answer, I'd say its the inside of the oil filter unraveled.
Help appreciated..