A/C clutch removal threads size
05-22-2013, 07:20 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
A/C clutch removal threads size
Has anyone made the tool to push off the clutch for a 80's A/C compressor. Looks to be a simple thing if you knew what the threads on the clutch were. I am reluctant to use a puller setup.
05-23-2013, 01:39 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Calif
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the tool itself is cheap, not worth the time to make it. However, if you intend to replace the AC seal, I'll warn you that it's not that easy - I ended up sending my compressor to Polarbear to let them do the seal
05-23-2013, 07:59 PM
#4
Actually you don't need special tools most of the time.
1) Phillips screw driver to loosen clutch wire hold down strap.
2) Air gun and hex socket to remove shaft nut.
3) 2 thin bladed screw drivers to gently, carefully, pry up outer clutch
hub from shaft (don't lose any shim washers you may find under the hub
bore or sitting the step on the shaft.
4) Retaining ring pliers (and safety glasses) to remove pulley retaining ring clip.
5) Lift pulley off compressor nose straight up, if you **** it, it won't come off.
If it gives you trouble, use a plastic mallet on the back side gently tapping the
back side rib alternately 180 degrees apart (do not "hammer" it or you will bend
the pulley). At this juncture if you are stuck, then you need a wheel puller; put the shaft nut back on 3 threads to support the puller center screw).
Once pulley is off, place three fingers inside the bearings inner race and rotate the pulley, if it feels 'gritty', 'thumpy' or 'shot', then new bearing.
6) Retaining ring pliers (and safety glasses) to remove coil retaining ring clip.
Inspect coil for signs of cracks or burning in the epoxy. Check resistance of
coil, 3 to 3.6 ohms.
7) Don't lose the shaft key, and when you put it back insure its aligned.
1) Phillips screw driver to loosen clutch wire hold down strap.
2) Air gun and hex socket to remove shaft nut.
3) 2 thin bladed screw drivers to gently, carefully, pry up outer clutch
hub from shaft (don't lose any shim washers you may find under the hub
bore or sitting the step on the shaft.
4) Retaining ring pliers (and safety glasses) to remove pulley retaining ring clip.
5) Lift pulley off compressor nose straight up, if you **** it, it won't come off.
If it gives you trouble, use a plastic mallet on the back side gently tapping the
back side rib alternately 180 degrees apart (do not "hammer" it or you will bend
the pulley). At this juncture if you are stuck, then you need a wheel puller; put the shaft nut back on 3 threads to support the puller center screw).
Once pulley is off, place three fingers inside the bearings inner race and rotate the pulley, if it feels 'gritty', 'thumpy' or 'shot', then new bearing.
6) Retaining ring pliers (and safety glasses) to remove coil retaining ring clip.
Inspect coil for signs of cracks or burning in the epoxy. Check resistance of
coil, 3 to 3.6 ohms.
7) Don't lose the shaft key, and when you put it back insure its aligned.
05-23-2013, 10:05 PM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Would love to borrow the tool, but no Oreilly or Autozone in BC and I haven't seen anyplace around here loan tools. I stopped at a O'Reily's, on a trip in Nevada last year, to borrow a code reader and it sure saved a lot of headaches. Thanks Griffiths, I'll gently try your way.
There were loud noises coming from the clutch and the compressor felt hotter than the oil pan, this with the air off. I want to check the seals on a spare I have and convert it to r134 refrigerant if it looks OK.
There were loud noises coming from the clutch and the compressor felt hotter than the oil pan, this with the air off. I want to check the seals on a spare I have and convert it to r134 refrigerant if it looks OK.
05-26-2013, 11:43 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
That worked ! I have most of the compressor apart and it looks good. I'll order a compressor kit from Griffith and re-assemble. I found no shims when I took it apart, is that normal? I did not check the gap before taking it apart but it didn't seem to drag at all. Only piece to still need to come apart is the 'nose' as you need a long, slender set of o-ring pliers to get in there. May try a couple of awls and pliers.
Trending Topics
05-27-2013, 09:09 AM
#8
The air gap, between the out hub and pulley is set at the factory
when the compressor was manufactured. The air gap typically does
not change unless:
A) Someone disassembled the unit and did not the correct shim
washers back on the shaft.
B) The pulley or hub are excessively worn; you will see grooves
but in the face of the pulley by the hub.
C) The hub's vulcanized rubber is shot.
You should check the air gap prior to tightening the nut on shaft.
First inspect the pulley face to insure it does not have excessive
wear (grooves), inspect the hub's vulcanized bond (rubber),
place 3 fingers inside the the pulley's inner race and spin the pulley
and feel for 'grinding' or 'thumping' ; a sign of a worn bearing.
Air gap is checked using 2 feeler gauges. A .014" as a 'go', and a
.031" as a no go. The .014 should slip easily in and the .031" should
not. You can use a combination of gauges to add up the total thickness
you need if you don't have the exact size in your set.
Check the air gap with the pulley attached with its retaining ring on the nose of the compressor, key removed from the shaft makes things a bit easier, hub fully down as far as it will go. Check the air gap at 3 different locations 120 degrees apart from one another. Add or remove shim washers as necessary. After you are satisfied with the fit then place the key on the shaft, replace the hub, and use an air gun to tighten the nut.
when the compressor was manufactured. The air gap typically does
not change unless:
A) Someone disassembled the unit and did not the correct shim
washers back on the shaft.
B) The pulley or hub are excessively worn; you will see grooves
but in the face of the pulley by the hub.
C) The hub's vulcanized rubber is shot.
You should check the air gap prior to tightening the nut on shaft.
First inspect the pulley face to insure it does not have excessive
wear (grooves), inspect the hub's vulcanized bond (rubber),
place 3 fingers inside the the pulley's inner race and spin the pulley
and feel for 'grinding' or 'thumping' ; a sign of a worn bearing.
Air gap is checked using 2 feeler gauges. A .014" as a 'go', and a
.031" as a no go. The .014 should slip easily in and the .031" should
not. You can use a combination of gauges to add up the total thickness
you need if you don't have the exact size in your set.
Check the air gap with the pulley attached with its retaining ring on the nose of the compressor, key removed from the shaft makes things a bit easier, hub fully down as far as it will go. Check the air gap at 3 different locations 120 degrees apart from one another. Add or remove shim washers as necessary. After you are satisfied with the fit then place the key on the shaft, replace the hub, and use an air gun to tighten the nut.
