Well...I managed to get the belts off (the A/C belt I just cut with a hacksaw right before I figured out that the long bar with counter-threaded sides was the adjuster I need to loosen it with), the master cylinder heatshield (what a wigglin-to-all-hell PITA to get off...it makes it a lot easier to get the turbo bolts off though), the leaking power steering resevoir and tubing, and a couple other small things I forgot. I also got 3 of the turbo-to-crossover-pipe bolts off. Now a couple more questions:

1. Any tricks to getting the lower right (looking at the turbo from the driver's side fender) bolt off which is partially obscured by stuff behind the turbo and blocked in front by the crossover pipe? The only 15mm wrenches I have is a ratcheting hand wrench that is absolutely useless, and a snap-on 5 sided (the kind I am supposed to use for the brake lines) wrench, which won't fit over either of the sides because it isn't open ended and there isn't clearance otherwise to get it off (I borrowed both wrenches from my friend). I suppose I will need to get 2 15 mm standard crescent wrenches and do it 1/6 a rotation at a time, right?

2. Is there anything special about the turbo to crossover pipe nuts and bolts, or can I get replacements at my local autoparts store? 1 of the nuts is cracked, and 3 of the heads are stripped (not by me! by who ever tried taking the turbo bolts out before me).

3. I read in the tech-session how-to for this procedure about moving the a/c by loosening the 2 mounting bolts so I can reach the 2 hex nuts under (well...above...depends on which way you are looking at it)...but...there appear to be lines coming in and out of the a/c where these bolts are, and I don't want to spray freon everywhere, rendering my a/c impotent. Are these freon lines, electrical lines, etc. coming out of the two upper mounting bolts, or am I just smoking crack?

4. Would now be the best imaginable time to go ahead and drain my freon and refill with r134? Does r134 work okay with our compressors (my mechanic said it sucks, but then again, he told me that he replaced my altinator/ac belt a year and a half ago, and judging by the condition of the belt, I seriously doubt he did)? Any tips?

Thanks for everything guys...I am so close I can smell it. Oh, BTW, the powdercoating kit is in the mail tomorrow, so I should have a much prettier engine bay when I am all done. I don't have a digital camera (I always use my dad's crappy one, but it is 100 miles away), so I may get a cheap disposable camera and snap off a few shots then scan them.

 

[quote]Originally posted by ribs:
<strong>

2. Is there anything special about the turbo to crossover pipe nuts and bolts, or can I get replacements at my local autoparts store? 1 of the nuts is cracked, and 3 of the heads are stripped (not by me! by who ever tried taking the turbo bolts out before me).

3. I read in the tech-session how-to for this procedure about moving the a/c by loosening the 2 mounting bolts so I can reach the 2 hex nuts under (well...above...depends on which way you are looking at it)...but...there appear to be lines coming in and out of the a/c where these bolts are, and I don't want to spray freon everywhere, rendering my a/c impotent. Are these freon lines, electrical lines, etc. coming out of the two upper mounting bolts, or am I just smoking crack?

</strong><hr></blockquote>

#2 - I just left the cross over pipe on the car and dropped the engine with it still on.

#3 - I don't remember anything special on the AC compressor. Just remove the bolt that has the adjusting rod. Then push the compressor around until you can get to the other 2 swivel bolts. You can leave the lines attached and push it out of the way. Leave it connected, it's one less thing to worry about. Opening up the AC creates problems. (You have to watch the compressor closly when you drop the engine).

 

[quote]Originally posted by DanD:
<strong>

#2 - I just left the cross over pipe on the car and dropped the engine with it still on.

#3 - I don't remember anything special on the AC compressor. Just remove the bolt that has the adjusting rod. Then push the compressor around until you can get to the other 2 swivel bolts. You can leave the lines attached and push it out of the way. Leave it connected, it's one less thing to worry about. Opening up the AC creates problems. (You have to watch the compressor closly when you drop the engine).</strong><hr></blockquote>

Dan...I'm leaving the motor in the car (I'm doing the rod bearings). Thanks though...I really need to get this bolt off though. My compressor seems very stiff (like it won't budge)...I don't know where the two swivel bolts you speak of are. Say I am laying under the car, looking straight up, with the motor behind my head and to the right, the front of the car at my mid section, and staring straight up at the a/c compressor. I removed the adjuster rod (and bolt), and the only other bolts I can find are on the left side of the compressor, above it, with two lines coming out.

Are the two swivel bolts like ball joints or something like that? Thanks again,

 

Man you should have just droped the whole engine out. It would be a lot simpiler to work on. With my engine out I had my turbo off in about 8 min. <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

 

If I sound funny, don't worry. Right now I am drunk at a friend's place, waiting to get sober so I can drive home. My friend has already gone to sleep.

[quote]Originally posted by ribs:
<strong>1. Any tricks to getting the lower right (looking at the turbo from the driver's side fender) bolt off which is partially obscured by stuff behind the turbo and blocked in front by the crossover pipe? The only 15mm wrenches I have is a ratcheting hand wrench that is absolutely useless, and a snap-on 5 sided (the kind I am supposed to use for the brake lines) wrench, which won't fit over either of the sides because it isn't open ended and there isn't clearance otherwise to get it off (I borrowed both wrenches from my friend). I suppose I will need to get 2 15 mm standard crescent wrenches and do it 1/6 a rotation at a time, right?</strong><hr></blockquote>

A ratcheting hand wrench works great for this, assuming it has zero angle/offset to it. It will probably help to remove the steering rack heat shield and maybe even the steering rack so that you can move the steering shaft around. Using a 15mm ratcheting wrench with 0 degrees offset from the underside, this should take no more than a minute.

[quote]Originally posted by ribs:
<strong>2. Is there anything special about the turbo to crossover pipe nuts and bolts, or can I get replacements at my local autoparts store? 1 of the nuts is cracked, and 3 of the heads are stripped (not by me! by who ever tried taking the turbo bolts out before me).</strong><hr></blockquote>

I replaced mine recently and they seemed to either be brass or have some kind of brass coating. I'd recommend the factory parts, though they charge big money for them.

[quote]Originally posted by ribs:
<strong>3. I read in the tech-session how-to for this procedure about moving the a/c by loosening the 2 mounting bolts so I can reach the 2 hex nuts under (well...above...depends on which way you are looking at it)...but...there appear to be lines coming in and out of the a/c where these bolts are, and I don't want to spray freon everywhere, rendering my a/c impotent. Are these freon lines, electrical lines, etc. coming out of the two upper mounting bolts, or am I just smoking crack?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Get off the crack! There are two mounting bolts for the A/C compressor. They are fairly easy to locate. The rear one is kind of difficult to get to. Loosen these first, then remove the tensioner for the assembly, remove the belt and your done.

[quote]Originally posted by ribs:
<strong>4. Would now be the best imaginable time to go ahead and drain my freon and refill with r134? Does r134 work okay with our compressors (my mechanic said it sucks, but then again, he told me that he replaced my altinator/ac belt a year and a half ago, and judging by the condition of the belt, I seriously doubt he did)? Any tips?</strong><hr></blockquote>

It won't make much difference, even if you end up rebuilding you A/C compressor. I spent TONS of time doing the things you are doing. The only work which you will duplicate this will be installing the alternator/ac belt and tensioning it.


BTW, I spent so much time doing the things you're doing it makes me sick! I have another tip as well, don't give car advice when you are drunk!!!!

<img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" /> <img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" /> <img src="graemlins/sleep.gif" border="0" alt="[sleep]" /> <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" /> <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" /> <img src="graemlins/r.gif" border="0" alt="[king]" /> <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />

I have an additional tip, UBB is currently setup to only show 8 images / emoticons per post... kind of lame!

 

ribs, you should be documenting this stuff as you go along. save it in html to put on a http server somewhere. you seem to have a lot of info goin on there..

 

ribs! DO NOT JUST DRAIN THE FREON! If you get one good strong wiff of it, you can have immediate heart failure. Seriously! You could DIE. <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />

Then, of course, there's the environment to think about. If you want to drain it, take it to an A/C shop when you're all done with everything else and have them suck it out.


Thaddeus

 

Regarding the bolts you need to remove in order to get the compressor off, here is a link to a parts diagram of the compressor. <a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/944_parts/944_83-85/Pic107.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/944_parts/944_83-85/Pic107.jpg</a> Note the 2 mounting flanges on top. The bolts in those need to be removed.
Pelican parts has a bunch of other good diagrams you may find helpful.

A good source for metric bolts and hardware in the area is the ACE hardware store in the Superfresh center on college ave. They have a large selection.

Also, before you re-install the master cylinder heat shield. a tip...There is a bolt that is near impossible to reach with the shield in place. Not bad to get off, but a dog to re-install. I found that if I cut a small slot in the shield, from the edge to the mounting hole. I could start the bolt without the shield in place, then slip it under the bolt and just tighten it.

 

Ribs,
Cut & Bend a coat hanger to hold/hang the compressor off to the side & out of the way. When I r&r my turbo, I replaced all the bolts with stainless steel and s/s lock washers. They still look shiny from April '01. Don't forget anti-seize compound & don't over torque or they'll never come off the next time.

To reach the rear upper a/c comp mounting bolt, use a long handled ratchet and reach up in there behind the compressor. The threads are built into the comp bracket, so you don't have to hold a opposite nut. The front upper is a 17mm and I think the rear upper is a 15mm??? Don't accidentally loosen the bolts holding the hoses down as freon will spray out. I think it's high pressure even with the motor off. Don't move the adjusting rod until all bolts are loose, I've heard of the mounting tabs snapping off the comp.

Removing the O2 sensor will give you more room to reach up in and get the lower turbo-crossover bolt.
You'll need plenty of <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" /> <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

racheting box wrenches suck. i was so excited when i realized they existed because i thought they would be awesome, but every single time i encountered a situation where one would be useful, it wouldn't fit because there wasn't enough clearance around the nut/bolt for the bulky wrench.

as for "draining" your a/c: this is a very bad idea. first of all, you'll have to take it to an ac shop to get it filled and they'll empty it for free so you don't save anything by doing it yourself. second, the accumulator contains a dessicant to remove moisture from the refridgerant... "draining" your ac as you put it would involve air replacing this refredigerant... air which contains MUCH more moisture and will quickly saturate and ruin the dessicant, nessicating the replacement of your accumulator. when an ac shop "drains" your system, they use a vacuum pump so no air enters.

 

The advice so far given for your A/C is sound. Have the system vacuumed by a professional shop. It is actually illegal to dump freon into the atmosphere. Some shops will even pay you for the freon since thay cannot get anything but recycled stuff now. Whover vacuums your system can also leave the gauges on it for an hour or so to see if the system has any leaks. As for converting to R134, as a certified A/C tech (kinda retired from the business..I was only part time anyway and when I moved I sold my equipment) I have converted a few. So far, no problems. Look up "Interdynamics" on the net. They have a kit that contains the proper oil, a system sealer, etc, but you have to buy a couple of cans of refrigerant(not included in the kit). I live in Tucson. If R134 sucked, I would be a little puddle of grease on the driver's seat. There are differences between R12 and R134a to be sure and newer systems have an increased evaporator to compensate. However, it is adequate for most purposews. Plus, the volume of car to be cooled in a 944 isn't all that great, but tinting helps. Just remember to hang the compressor to the side and don't put stress on the hoses.

You seem to be doing a great job..Keep us posted...(oh hell, I know you will anyway) &lt;G&gt;

Bob S.

 

Ribs, you cut the belt...OMG, damn.
This is a major learning exp.
Give me a shout if you need help...I am moving to Va. in March.
Good luck with the car.
<img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />