Steering Rack replacement.....advice
08-22-2001, 11:53 PM
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Steering Rack replacement.....advice
About halfway through replacing the steering rack and had to stop because I don't have the puller to get the tie rod ends off. Will buy that tommorrow but in the meantime how do I get the tie rod end extenders off of the rack itself? Haynes and Factory books don't explain. Also I can't seem to find a part number for the rubber bushings that seal the ends of the rack. If you have any input on this or any other part of the procedure it would be greatly appreciated. For some reason I can't access the Paragon Tech sessions. Thanks in advance.
08-23-2001, 12:07 AM
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I can't help you with anything except that I can access the Paragon tech sessions. 
Unfortuantely there's nothing that I can see there that would help you.
good luck
Unfortuantely there's nothing that I can see there that would help you.
good luck
08-23-2001, 12:50 AM
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You can check this out. http://porsche-944-garage.tripod.com/
Click on 944 GARAGE SHOP MANUAL Then look 3/4 of the way down the list. I don't know if it explains how to take off the tie rod end extenders.
Good luck.
Click on 944 GARAGE SHOP MANUAL Then look 3/4 of the way down the list. I don't know if it explains how to take off the tie rod end extenders.
Good luck.
08-23-2001, 01:02 AM
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Do you have a power rack?
Do you mean the BOOT at the end of the rack?
If so it's 944 ALL 1983-88 171 419 831 C BOOT
I don't think bushings seal things, they are more of a mounting device.
Do you mean the BOOT at the end of the rack?
If so it's 944 ALL 1983-88 171 419 831 C BOOT
I don't think bushings seal things, they are more of a mounting device.
08-23-2001, 03:47 PM
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To get the inner tie-rod off you'll need a small cold chisel to break off the dimple(locks the two pieces together. Be careful not to marr it up too bad. Once you knock the dimple off, you can unscrew the pieces... it's on there pretty tight, and you should do this with the rack out of the car so you can use a vice to hold the rack rod... turning against the rack internals can cause damage. I use a 10" bench vise with some rubber to protect the metal and a large crescent wrench to turn the end off. When reinstalling, get the rod tight, then re-dimple the nut end into the notch with a punch.
I have a picture somewhere that I'll try to locate.
Also, use a screw type ball joint remover to pop the tie-rod ends out... not a pickle fork. And, do NOT use the "beat-it-with-a-hammer" method... you can break the casting and have to replace the whole spindle assembly.
Good Luck!
I have a picture somewhere that I'll try to locate.
Also, use a screw type ball joint remover to pop the tie-rod ends out... not a pickle fork. And, do NOT use the "beat-it-with-a-hammer" method... you can break the casting and have to replace the whole spindle assembly.
Good Luck!
08-24-2001, 10:56 AM
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Cobbs,
Can I ask what the problem was with your original rack. I have a problem that the power works turning right but not left! I may be doing this procedure shortly, any advise would be great....My car is an 87 with 105k on it.
Good luck
Can I ask what the problem was with your original rack. I have a problem that the power works turning right but not left! I may be doing this procedure shortly, any advise would be great....My car is an 87 with 105k on it.
Good luck
08-25-2001, 02:12 AM
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Dickie,
Basically my steering rack is very loose. Dealer mechanic said it was going to be futile to do a wheel alignment because there was way to much play in the rack itself, tie rods and bearings. The resulting effect is a shimmy at certain speeds. Also this thing is leaking pretty bad.
So far this procedure has been tougher than expected. Like Skip said the pickle fork is useless to get the tie rod ends off. I'm using a pitman arm puller from Autozone. They have a great tool loan program. One other thing I can tell you is that Rebuilt racks are sold in long and short forms. The Long form is complete with tie rod ends. The short only has the rack itself. I wish I would have got a long to eliminate additional hassle. Havn't been able to get the old one disconnected from the U-joint yet so I'm kinda stalled right there at the moment. Will keep posted.
Basically my steering rack is very loose. Dealer mechanic said it was going to be futile to do a wheel alignment because there was way to much play in the rack itself, tie rods and bearings. The resulting effect is a shimmy at certain speeds. Also this thing is leaking pretty bad.
So far this procedure has been tougher than expected. Like Skip said the pickle fork is useless to get the tie rod ends off. I'm using a pitman arm puller from Autozone. They have a great tool loan program. One other thing I can tell you is that Rebuilt racks are sold in long and short forms. The Long form is complete with tie rod ends. The short only has the rack itself. I wish I would have got a long to eliminate additional hassle. Havn't been able to get the old one disconnected from the U-joint yet so I'm kinda stalled right there at the moment. Will keep posted.
