My 944 broke down
05-15-2013, 05:45 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
Compression issue solved. 
All 4 pistons had stuck rings. The rings were compressed so they weren't sealing. No idea why all 4 had the same problem. Maybe it overheated at some point???
Both balance shafts had worn bearings as well.
Crank still doesn't spin too freely. Maybe i have a bearing that went bad. The bearings on the connecting rods were acceptable. Worn but still working.
All 4 pistons had stuck rings. The rings were compressed so they weren't sealing. No idea why all 4 had the same problem. Maybe it overheated at some point???
Both balance shafts had worn bearings as well.
Crank still doesn't spin too freely. Maybe i have a bearing that went bad. The bearings on the connecting rods were acceptable. Worn but still working.
05-16-2013, 10:43 AM
#34
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Thread Starter
Was using Mobil 15w40. Don't think my oil was the issue. The wear marks on the bearings and balance shaft would indicate to me that it had a problem long ago. I really don't drive the car enough to cause that kind of wear on the bearings. So I'm going to have to go with lack of oil changes with previous owner(s). It's all good. I'm going to do rings bearings seals etc... Should be a strong runner once again. It won't suffer from neglect anymore.
05-16-2013, 11:52 AM
#35
Professional Hoon
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20w50 is what you should use IMO.
Get a full rebuild kit. i bought mine from lindsey racing.
While you're in there:
oil pan baffle
fuel lines
vacuum lines
Also now you have a chance to clean all the shields and paint what needs to be painted with high temp paint.
Get a full rebuild kit. i bought mine from lindsey racing.
While you're in there:
oil pan baffle
fuel lines
vacuum lines
Also now you have a chance to clean all the shields and paint what needs to be painted with high temp paint.
05-19-2013, 05:01 PM
#37
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Thread Starter
So my money is on a crapped out oil pump. I cleaned it up. Oiled it and it still is stiff to turn. Took the crank out and all bearings were like sandpaper. Glad a bearing didn't spin. Crank looks fine. This would explain the stiff crank. No compression with stuck rings. Pics to follow.
05-20-2013, 01:34 AM
#39
Late Porkchops
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It should be right and ready to run for a long time when you get it back together. It all seemed more oily than I would have thought in the fist pics - so the rings and head gasket make sense .
05-20-2013, 01:29 PM
#40
Instructor
Ok... this has been bugging me
Did you really remove the engine from above? As the sequence of pictures shows.
Or
did you put your steering rack and cross member back in and then take the picture? 
No, seriously though, most people drop engine, then lift car. How hard was it to lift out of the engine bay? No condenser? Slide forward and lift? Just curious on your process, as I am about to drop my engine the old fashion way. (drop engine on floor, then lift car)
Sorry for all the Q's
Terry
Did you really remove the engine from above? As the sequence of pictures shows.
Or
did you put your steering rack and cross member back in and then take the picture? No, seriously though, most people drop engine, then lift car. How hard was it to lift out of the engine bay? No condenser? Slide forward and lift? Just curious on your process, as I am about to drop my engine the old fashion way. (drop engine on floor, then lift car)
Sorry for all the Q's
Terry
05-20-2013, 06:44 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No problem. I took it out the top. Not one of my brightest ideas. The advantage of taking it out the top is that the car can still be moved around. I had the intake and head off the car while the block was still installed. Alternator was removed. Same with power steering pump. (Not going back in). Exhaust manifolds removed. A/C is long gone so the condenser wasn't in the way. I wasn't even close to touching the radiator. I may remove it just in case. I've heard stories. So.....
If i took it out the bottom, the car is stuck in that spot unless i reinstall the rack and crossmember.
When i put the motor back in i will do it from the bottom. Then i can have a complete engine assembled on the stand. I am hoping for an easy time at it.
If i took it out the bottom, the car is stuck in that spot unless i reinstall the rack and crossmember.
When i put the motor back in i will do it from the bottom. Then i can have a complete engine assembled on the stand. I am hoping for an easy time at it.
05-20-2013, 09:11 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
90% of the parts are clean. Just pricing out all the parts needed.
Would love a new factory porsche $800 oil pump. Then i saw the $169 at 944online. Anybody with experiences with a rebuilt unit?
Here is the block after degreasing and wire brushing.
Would love a new factory porsche $800 oil pump. Then i saw the $169 at 944online. Anybody with experiences with a rebuilt unit?
Here is the block after degreasing and wire brushing.
05-20-2013, 10:52 PM
#44
Instructor
No problem. I took it out the top. Not one of my brightest ideas. The advantage of taking it out the top is that the car can still be moved around. I had the intake and head off the car while the block was still installed. Alternator was removed. Same with power steering pump. (Not going back in). Exhaust manifolds removed. A/C is long gone so the condenser wasn't in the way. I wasn't even close to touching the radiator. I may remove it just in case. I've heard stories. So.....
If i took it out the bottom, the car is stuck in that spot unless i reinstall the rack and crossmember.
When i put the motor back in i will do it from the bottom. Then i can have a complete engine assembled on the stand. I am hoping for an easy time at it.
If i took it out the bottom, the car is stuck in that spot unless i reinstall the rack and crossmember.
When i put the motor back in i will do it from the bottom. Then i can have a complete engine assembled on the stand. I am hoping for an easy time at it.
Thanks! Sometimes you just have t'ask
05-21-2013, 09:13 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok. Talked briefly with Ian at 944online. He says oil pumps do not fail.
I did however have a crank bolt come loose last summer. The gear that drives the oil pump is held in place with the crank bolt and pulleys. Without tension the gear will just rotate around the crank. Not turning the oil pump. So I'm thinking I've had damaged rings/bearings for the past year and the bomb was ticking. Bolt should be torqued at 150 foot lbs. or 220nm. Maybe time for everyone to check theirs.
And related..... If I remove the power steering pulley. Do I need a washer to take its place?
I did however have a crank bolt come loose last summer. The gear that drives the oil pump is held in place with the crank bolt and pulleys. Without tension the gear will just rotate around the crank. Not turning the oil pump. So I'm thinking I've had damaged rings/bearings for the past year and the bomb was ticking. Bolt should be torqued at 150 foot lbs. or 220nm. Maybe time for everyone to check theirs.
And related..... If I remove the power steering pulley. Do I need a washer to take its place?