~If your tie rod ends have worn rubber bushings, is it necessary to replace the whole end or can just the bushing be replaced?

~Where can I get just the bushings or the ends for a reasonable price?
Should both be replaced at the same time?

~Would a worn bushing cause a vibration in the steering wheel when turning or switching lanes at highway speeds?

Thanks.

Joe

 

Ties rod ends at Paragon Products.

But I don't know what you mean by bushings. Aren't the bushings farther in than the ends?

 

I'm talking about the rubber ***** that sit on the end.

 

The ball joint itself is not home-mechanic replaceable. Replacement of one tie-rod end means you'll need an alignment, so might as well do them both so as not to worry about it again. Also, do not hammer out the tie-rod ends... use a proper tie-rod removal tool.

Worn tie-rod ends can certainly cause wondering.... but they're not the only thing. The A-arm ball joints, worn upper strut bearings, loose wheel bearings, or simply a poor alignment can cause this also. Best to pull off the wheels and give everything a good once-over to be sure that's your only problem.

Good Luck!

 

Just curious why you say this, when I hear professional mechanics saying otherwise.

 

Oh okay, I guess because I'm NOT a professional mechanic. They may be taking liberties with YOUR car, because it is not their own, or to save time, or because they haven't experienced a failure yet, or... Simple fact of the matter is, Porsche recommends the use of a tie-rod puller... and, banging on cast metal opens the door to stress fractures. Surely in most cases this would not happen, but have you ever tried to remove a tie-rod/ball-joint with a hammer... then tried it again with a tie-rod puller. The difference is amazing. And, it just makes sense to use the proper tool for the job. I have ruined countless parts on cars over the years by taking the low-road, rather than shelling out a couple more bucks to do it right, or taking a few more minutes to research my options and read the manual. A tie-rod puller from your local parts store should run no more than $15, and can be used on any car.

Does pounding on the tie-rod (while mounted to the car) work... well yes. It just does't *feel* good to be pounding on a vital part of my cars anatomy. As always, YMMV.

Good Luck!

Skip

 

Is a tie rod puller any different from a regular gear puller?

--
Semper Fi
LCpl SH Won
Wpns Co, 2nd Bn 24th Marines

 

They are different, but after looking at mine I suppose it would work.

The correct tie-rod puller (separator) is actually a wedge (pickle-fork) and bolt design... vice the claws and bolt design of the generic seal/bearing puller.

Anything that can apply a smooth consistent force will work. I've even seen homemade welded gigs made from a vice or large C-clamp. I like the pickle-fork/bolt design because it's easy to get an air gun onto.

Skip

 

I use a pitman arm puller from Autozone. They have a free tool loaner program but they run about 20 bones

I also am not sure what you mean by bushings but I can definitly say that worn tie rod ends seem to be a big source of the "shimmies" in my car. If you have the front end on jacks stands and can pull on one of the wheels and get top to bottom play or side to side play you probably have either bad tie rod ends or front bearings need a repack/adjustment. The problem in the Tie rod design is that the threaded part that slides up into the steering knuckle wears out. The solid area should be longer and the threads should be at the very top. That way the load wouldn't be placed on the threads. My tie rod ends were worn badly in this threaded area. I would check this out first. Hope this helps