PaulK

I have a 91 S2 Cab, and I'd like to try a strut brace on it to tighten it up a bit in front. Has anyone had experience with struct braces? The ones I have seen for the 944 include Brey Krause (stainless steel), SPARCO (seems like a good price at $155, aluminum alloy), Racing Dynamics (nice looking aluminum alloy piece), Weltmiester (gold anodized steel.) Any thoughts?

K. Wells

Where can you order the Sparco from?? $155 is much better than the other bars i've seen. Any time you have a unibody car you should benefit from a Strut bar. Should help stabilize wheel angle changes under load, the only reason I haven't got one yet is because all porsche performance parts are insanely overpriced, even a $165 for a Strut bar is outrageous, look at less exotic brands(ie. japanese imports) and you can find bars for under $100, same for intakes and every other mod.

Michael Stephenson

I have a Weltmiester strut brace. It did wonders for correcting understeer - much more than was expected.

I like the Weltmiester because it uses all of the strut bolts. Some models use only two or three. Seems to me the more bolts, the better the load transfer.

Also, the Weltmiester bar works with all models if 944 (it has different mounting points for each model), so it can be transfered to another car in the future. (Kepp the directions)

Note that if you do any SCCA Auto-X's running a strut brace puts you into the prepared category, but you can disconnect the brace and leave the strut brace hats on if you want to run in the stock class.

Thaddeus

I got the Brey-Krause. I like it a lot. It was easy to install and looks good. The stainless steel is very cool. It improved the handling.

T.

trebor_quitman

Hello all,

trebor_quitman

Sorry, let me try again,

Can any of you guys that have strutbraces installed give a clearance number above the tower to tower line? I'm kicking around the idea of getting a strut brace but I will soon have a 968 motor in my 944 and I think those sit abit taller in the engine compartment. Thanks,

Bob

Dave951M

If you're handy with tools and fabrication, strut braces are very simple to make. All you need are two plates, two Heim joints and lock nuts (opposite threads! ) and tubing to joint them. You will also need to have access to someone with the machinery to bend the tubing. Try using some straight brake line tubing to get the basic shape down and have it replicated. Weld in the end caps for the Heim joints, make the mounts and have at it! This is the next project I'm going to tackle.

I'm a firm believer in these things, but having helped build race cars before, there ain't no way I'm paying what some of these guys are asking. Let's see, steel (plate and tubing) $20, Heim joints and bushings $35, and some welding. This is a non-critical application so I would think even a novice should attempt it and learn some fabrication techniques. It's the only way you'll be able to keep the costs down with these cars. Next on my list is Delrin sway bar bushings with Zerks fitted to lube the bar. Another cake project. Try making one on your own, it's not hard.

Dave

FWIW, PCA auto-x will allow a "non-triangulated" strut brace in stock class, but a triangulated brace moves you into improved class.

C DeVito

I agree it is an easy job to build one. I went the Stainless route, which cost about $50 plus some welding, grinding and drilling time. Here is the finished product. It's a simple design, straight rather than bent, unlike many of the after market ones. Since I drilled the bar holes after mounting the tower pieces, it fits perfectly, no adjustments needed. Transfer to another car wasn't a concern, or I'd go with a Spherical rod end, too. I can send dimensional drawing to anyone interested. It did stiffen the front end.

Michael Stephenson

The Weltmiester brace has a bend in it. I have turned the bend so that it is about 1/4" away from the fuel rail. I could rotate the brace so that it is even farther away, maybe 1/2" - 3/4" at most. However, I do not know how close that will put the bar to the hood. The S2 does not have any insulation, so it may have more room for the bend in the brace than the cars with insulation.

I notice that the strut braces do not say that they are able to be used for the 968. Not sure if it is a clearence issue or if the struts are in a different location.

mroberts

Anyone know what size the lock nuts are on the strut towers ? I'm selling my strut brace, and figure I may as well replace the lock nuts, and I'll need washers.

Thanks.

JustinL

KLA sells a very reasonably priced strut brace ($129).

http://www.klaindustries.net/

Eyal 951

I have a welt. I am not that impressed with the rod end usage, pivot points. I'm not sure its really all that effective. The car feels better with it on, so I leave it on, but I'm not sure if its psychological. I PC'd it black.

Bill

I am very happy with my Dynatech Motorsports brace. I think it is one of the better looking braces out there.

http://www.dynatechmotorsports.net/s...trut_brace.htm

bleucamaro

While I agree with the DIY attitude you're expressing here, I dissagree on the method. Companies make heim jointed braces so they are adjustable. If you make your own, why's it need to adjust? You will be better off using a rigid setup with a pair of cut plates bolted to the strut towers, and weld in a cross bar.