Tension
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
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I posted over on the Turbo forum but figured I'd get more hits here since it is basically the same engine. So here's a shot,
Do you guys have Any tricks for tensioning the timing belt and balance belt, I know I know.. Byt the tool, lol but I don't really have the money to swing for one, So Im doing it shade tree style. I've heard good results from doing a 90 degree twist on the t-belt and a 180 on the balance belt, Any of you guys try this???
Do you guys have Any tricks for tensioning the timing belt and balance belt, I know I know.. Byt the tool, lol but I don't really have the money to swing for one, So Im doing it shade tree style. I've heard good results from doing a 90 degree twist on the t-belt and a 180 on the balance belt, Any of you guys try this???
#3
Rennlist Member
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I snapped a timing belt on Friday, so put a new one in Friday night. I borrowed a tool since I was (then) concerned that my "tightening by feel" might have been a contributing factor.
It turned out that my "by feel" was a 5.0 on the factory gauge. Spec calls for 4.0 +/- 0.25. So I was a wee bit on the tight side.
Turned out, one of the nuts that holds the stainless belt guide on the water pump fell off - and that's what broke the belt... it got caught between the water pump pulley and the belt.
For using the factory tool, turn the engine over a few revolutions to make sure the belt is tracking straight, then turn the engine backwards a little bit so the "slack" is between the cam gear and the crank pulley. At 4.0 on the factory gauge, it was a little "looser" that I expected.
It turned out that my "by feel" was a 5.0 on the factory gauge. Spec calls for 4.0 +/- 0.25. So I was a wee bit on the tight side.
Turned out, one of the nuts that holds the stainless belt guide on the water pump fell off - and that's what broke the belt... it got caught between the water pump pulley and the belt.
For using the factory tool, turn the engine over a few revolutions to make sure the belt is tracking straight, then turn the engine backwards a little bit so the "slack" is between the cam gear and the crank pulley. At 4.0 on the factory gauge, it was a little "looser" that I expected.
#4
Rennlist Member
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p.s. here's what happened... We spent about 2.5 hours hours taking it apart at the track, trailered it home with the head off, then spent about 5.5 hours pulling valves from another head, lapping them in, reassembly, then changing the oil.
#5
Rennlist Member
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I would suggest for the first time that you use the tool, either the official 9201 or the Arnworx tool. You can usually find someone to borrow it from. After you learn what the tension should be, you should be able to do it by hand. It is looser than you would think it should be.
I have done all mine by hand after the first time and haven't had any problems. Just be mindful of all the components in there. It only takes one mistake to cause a lot of damage $$.
I have done all mine by hand after the first time and haven't had any problems. Just be mindful of all the components in there. It only takes one mistake to cause a lot of damage $$.
#6
Drifting
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According to the "shade tree" system of belt replacement/tensioning, I've used the system of tensioning the belt until you can barely turn the water pump pulley by hand (clean, dry hands). The balance belt is tightened to where I can twist the long length between 90 and 180 degrees. The idler roller should have a credit card clearance between the roller and the timing belt. If there's a whining noise after you've done this, the balance belt is likely a bit too tight. I have a spring loaded timing belt tensioner on my car and the tension on it is real close to factory spec. 123k miles.