pontifex4

I put the oil pan on my 968 engine this afternoon. Totally dry, with no sealant or adhesive. I cleaned both metal surfaces very carefully, and cleaned the release agent off the gasket with rubbing alcohol (this makes it noticeably stickier, for the record).

I ran through the torque sequence three times with just a socket on an extension to get all the bolts snug, then torqued the bolts per Clark's garage in two stages.

Both long sides look perfect, and so do the rear corners, but the two front corners look like the photos below. Do I need to redo this?

Thanks!

pontifex4

Bump?

mbardeen

To my un-practiced eye it looks ok. As long as you've got a good seal there it should be ok, and the aluminum washers in the gasket should prevent it from "squishing" too much.

princej

is it better to use no sealant or adhesive?

or is this one of the few cases where dry is better.

mbardeen

From the factory workshop manual, you should put RTV sealant in the vertical corners and where the oil pump meets the block.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23465100@N00/8326172688/

Campbelljj

I would definitely use sealant at front and rear corners (both sides of gasket) about one inch in length from the corners. The sealant will keep the gasket in place and prevent leaks there.

mbardeen

I use a trick I picked up from the Jeep world -- I make studs that I use on the corners to locate the gasket & eventually pan on the block.

Simple oil pan install:
1) Buy long bolts that fit the pan. In this case, 4 M6 x 40mm bolts.
2) Cut the heads off the bolts to create studs.
3) Optional: cut a grove on the head of the stud, to allow easy removal by screwdriver
4) Install the studs in 4 corners of the pan.
5) Put RTV Silicon where necessary - vertical corners and where the block meets the oil pump housing.
6) Wait a tad for the silicon to cure.
7) Install gasket to the block. The studs and silicon will hold it there.
8) Install pan. Start a few of the bolts in a couple corners, then remove the studs.
9) Install the rest of the bolts and torque accordingly.

This has worked both on my Jeep and on my 968. No leaks on either.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23465100@N00/8325114323/

pontifex4

Got it, and thank you especially for the pictures!

I will redo this this weekend.

Fara

The porsche mechanic who did the pan gasket for my previous owner used the same trick as with the crank girdle - a nice even coat of Loctite across the entire surface.

Everything else in the engine appears to leak, but that was ok

princej

which loctite sealant should be used?

Fara

Honestly, I'd suggest following the WSM in this case as per mbardeen's post. It's worked for everyone I know doing this job.

mytrplseven

I prepped the gasket and metal surfaces as you did but after researching all the blogs on adhesives, I chose to use the Hondabond (Yamabond) that he Japanese bike mech's use for joining engine halves for the corners. I put a thin layer on the gasket surfaces and a thin one on the engine and pan halves and let it set for about 10 minutes and then started the installation and torque sequences. Solid installation, no squish and after a thousand miles, no leaks. Bottom line: Preparation is everything.

eric951turbo

Excellent thank you

GrantM

Same question for me,

Is this too much squish on my oil pan gasket? Thanks for your help.