Originally Posted by Der Treiber

Van gave you some ideas on those seals, below, so just a couple more thoughts on that. I had a budget for specialty tools for my belt and seal project, which was used up on the arnworx tension gauge, so I had to improvise on the others. Pretty hillbilly, since I don't have a metal shop or welder, but they all worked great.

a&b) cut a scrap of .75" ply, removed the pull arms from my gear puller, and traced it on the block and cut it out. Drilled pilot holes for (3) 3" wood screws surrounding the center hole. Then took a tiny drill bit and drilled holes every 120 degrees on the crank seal. Don't know if that's what they're for, but the seal has molded dimples that are in exactly the right spot (inside to outside) for drilling. Take care not to penetrate too deeply (>.25") into the seal w/ either the drill bit or the wood screws, or you will muck up the oil pump housing behind the seal. Once the screws and scrap piece are mounted to the seal, slip the gear puller through the cutout, rotate it so the arm mounts pull on the block, then tightened the center pivot against the center of the crankshaft until the seal pops out. Nice!...most seals w/ probably come out w/ just the three screws and scrap piece to grab and pull with, but my seal and oil pump sleeve were pretty stubborn, so this was a safer approach than jabbing at the seal w/ a screwdriver.

c) replacing balance cam seals require removing the housing since you have to replace that onion seal on the shaft behind the spacers. More of a pain for the lower cam than the upper, w/ all the waterpump attachments. Then, just cut a piece of hanging rod dowel, and hit it w/ the grinder, until it slips just inside the housing. One tap is all it took to push those cam seals and spacers out.

d) I cut, stacked and glued a set of oak rings, and wedged the old crank seal on it. I slipped the crank bolt and washer through a saw blade (using it like a giant washer, since I didn't have the right size washer nearby), then through this thing, and tightened it into the crankshaft until the seal slipped in...watch all the way around the seal as you tighten so it goes in straight...would have been easier to pick up a piece of pipe at home depot, but w/ the traffic and travel, it took about the same amount of time to make this stupid thing.

With a little moly on the outside perimeter, you can push the balance shaft seals over the spacers and into the housing w/ your fingers, and gently tap them into place w/ a small plastic mallet. I made another oak ring for that, since the crank seal is a different size, but you wouldn't necessarily have to.

a)


b)


c)


d)

Originally Posted by divil

When you put the new crank seal on...make sure you put it in before the oil pump drive gear. It's slightly harder to get the gear to seat properly this way, but if you do it the other way you will warp the seal.

Originally Posted by admiralkhole

Don't hot tank anything aluminum! The chemicals can cause porosity and dissolve the aluminum.