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Timing concerns (camshaft sprocket/crankshaft misaligned)

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Old 03-19-2013, 11:34 PM
  #31  
lina944
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Took everything apart, it appeared that the roller nut you're talking about had a clearance before the sprocket...is there a washer or seal that is supposed to be between the roller nut and the sprocket? If so, it was not on...sincei t was further out than it should have been, this could have caused the rotor to break
Old 03-19-2013, 11:42 PM
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There should not be a gap, it should fit tight. Is the key or keyway damaged? If you didn't get them lined up properly, the key would hit the back of the nut and not allow it to go all the way on. Yes this could cause a clearance issue with the rotor and cap.
Old 03-19-2013, 11:52 PM
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fabio944
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Originally Posted by jc85G
There should not be a gap, it should fit tight. Is the key or keyway damaged? If you didn't get them lined up properly, the key would hit the back of the nut and not allow it to go all the way on. Yes this could cause a clearance issue with the rotor and cap.
Hi, I'm helping Lina944 with this and it's exactly what you said. When I pulled the key off originally I roughed up the top of the key and I didn't notice it didn't sit flush when I reinstalled it. Sigh. Anyway I'm removing the key tomorrow and smoothing it out with a filer just enough so we can slide in that giant cam nut.
We will post what happened Thursday when we get in some new parts.

Thanks!
Old 03-20-2013, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by fabio944
Hi, I'm helping Lina944 with this and it's exactly what you said. When I pulled the key off originally I roughed up the top of the key and I didn't notice it didn't sit flush when I reinstalled it. Sigh. Anyway I'm removing the key tomorrow and smoothing it out with a filer just enough so we can slide in that giant cam nut.
We will post what happened Thursday when we get in some new parts.

Thanks!
NP.
Old 03-26-2013, 01:02 PM
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So ends up the key was smushed by the big nut that holds the gear sprocket in place on the camshaft onto the sprocket. This made the key almost impossible to come off.

Anyway we got it off just now and were waiting on the new woodruff key to come in (hopefully sometime today or tomorrow) to reassemble the rotor try to start it again.

The big nut that holds the gear sprocket is slightly dented (maybe 2mm dent) and caused a little groove in the inner opening on the nut. I sanded it down a bit with 400grit but it still won't quite fit. When reassembling I will try some grease on it and hope for the best.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:59 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by fabio944
So ends up the key was smushed by the big nut that holds the gear sprocket in place on the camshaft onto the sprocket. This made the key almost impossible to come off.

Anyway we got it off just now and were waiting on the new woodruff key to come in (hopefully sometime today or tomorrow) to reassemble the rotor try to start it again.

The big nut that holds the gear sprocket is slightly dented (maybe 2mm dent) and caused a little groove in the inner opening on the nut. I sanded it down a bit with 400grit but it still won't quite fit. When reassembling I will try some grease on it and hope for the best.
Sand/ grind the Burr out so it slides easy, that way you can feel when the keyway lines up with the key. You shouldn't have to force it. It will be easier to take off, if you ever have to.
Old 03-27-2013, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jc85G
Sand/ grind the Burr out so it slides easy, that way you can feel when the keyway lines up with the key. You shouldn't have to force it. It will be easier to take off, if you ever have to.
Ok so the car starts and idles at 1000. It's a bit questionable idle because it keeps revving up and down ( MAF?) but that's the least of our concerns lol. It seems that the temp gauge has broken along with oil pressure gauge/sending unit but those will be replaced. The main concern is that we ran it for about 15 minutes and there is still a faint white smoke coming from exhaust. Does that mean for sure that the head gasket is bad?
Old 03-27-2013, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lina944
Ok so the car starts and idles at 1000. It's a bit questionable idle because it keeps revving up and down ( MAF?) but that's the least of our concerns lol. It seems that the temp gauge has broken along with oil pressure gauge/sending unit but those will be replaced. The main concern is that we ran it for about 15 minutes and there is still a faint white smoke coming from exhaust. Does that mean for sure that the head gasket is bad?
It should not have more problems than it did before you worked on it, if it does there's a 99% chance its something you did. Check all your connections, clamps and vacuum lines for leaks. As for the white smoke, its not necessarily a head gasket. Did it smoke before? An easy check is; with the engine cold run the car for 15 seconds or so then shut it off and remove the coolant reservoir cap. If there is pressure building in the system after seconds of running, it most likely has a bad head gasket. You can do this check with the engine warm but you will need to release the pressure off the system first.
Old 03-27-2013, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jc85G
It should not have more problems than it did before you worked on it, if it does there's a 99% chance its something you did. Check all your connections, clamps and vacuum lines for leaks. As for the white smoke, its not necessarily a head gasket. Did it smoke before? An easy check is; with the engine cold run the car for 15 seconds or so then shut it off and remove the coolant reservoir cap. If there is pressure building in the system after seconds of running, it most likely has a bad head gasket. You can do this check with the engine warm but you will need to release the pressure off the system first.
Ok so we did the block tester and it came back blue? No pressure when it's first started. The white smoke seems to be hardly visible now but when I rev it up its visible again. Going to change the oil again when the car cools down and go from there
Old 03-27-2013, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lina944
Ok so we did the block tester and it came back blue? No pressure when it's first started. The white smoke seems to be hardly visible now but when I rev it up its visible again. Going to change the oil again when the car cools down and go from there
Came back blue or stayed blue? Change the oil when its warm, it will drain better. You could have condensation in the exhaust causing the smoke, it will have to get hot to burn it out. You probably had some unburned fuel in there too from trying to start it without having spark.
Old 03-27-2013, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jc85G
Came back blue or stayed blue? Change the oil when its warm, it will drain better. You could have condensation in the exhaust causing the smoke, it will have to get hot to burn it out. You probably had some unburned fuel in there too from trying to start it without having spark.
Comes out white, haven't put coolant in the system yet because I'm gonna take it somewhere to get flushed properly and I didn't want to waste it. So right now it's just water. And it gets hot enough to get the fans on but like I said the template isn't working.
Old 03-27-2013, 11:09 PM
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Started and finished blue* sorry I misunderstood your question
Old 03-27-2013, 11:10 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by lina944
Comes out white, haven't put coolant in the system yet because I'm gonna take it somewhere to get flushed properly and I didn't want to waste it. So right now it's just water. And it gets hot enough to get the fans on but like I said the template isn't working.
The block test was white or the smoke was white? Why is there only water in the coolant system? If you drained it and filler it with water, did you bleed the system? Air will cause a bad reading. Is the wire on the temp sensor for the gauge?
Old 03-27-2013, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by lina944
Started and finished blue* sorry I misunderstood your question
Got it. If you did the test correctly, there isn't a HG leak.
Old 03-27-2013, 11:17 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by jc85G
The block test was white or the smoke was white? Why is there only water in the coolant system? If you drained it and filler it with water, did you bleed the system? Air will cause a bad reading. Is the wire on the temp sensor for the gauge?
Yes bled the system completely because a hose ended up being bad. And I'm assuming I did it right but to make sure I might drive to an auto parts store and see if they will do it...any common misreadings with this?


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