Timing concerns (camshaft sprocket/crankshaft misaligned)
#31
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Thread Starter
Took everything apart, it appeared that the roller nut you're talking about had a clearance before the sprocket...is there a washer or seal that is supposed to be between the roller nut and the sprocket? If so, it was not on...sincei t was further out than it should have been, this could have caused the rotor to break
#32
There should not be a gap, it should fit tight. Is the key or keyway damaged? If you didn't get them lined up properly, the key would hit the back of the nut and not allow it to go all the way on. Yes this could cause a clearance issue with the rotor and cap.
#33
We will post what happened Thursday when we get in some new parts.
Thanks!
#34
Hi, I'm helping Lina944 with this and it's exactly what you said. When I pulled the key off originally I roughed up the top of the key and I didn't notice it didn't sit flush when I reinstalled it. Sigh. Anyway I'm removing the key tomorrow and smoothing it out with a filer just enough so we can slide in that giant cam nut.
We will post what happened Thursday when we get in some new parts.
Thanks!
We will post what happened Thursday when we get in some new parts.
Thanks!
#35
So ends up the key was smushed by the big nut that holds the gear sprocket in place on the camshaft onto the sprocket. This made the key almost impossible to come off.
Anyway we got it off just now and were waiting on the new woodruff key to come in (hopefully sometime today or tomorrow) to reassemble the rotor try to start it again.
The big nut that holds the gear sprocket is slightly dented (maybe 2mm dent) and caused a little groove in the inner opening on the nut. I sanded it down a bit with 400grit but it still won't quite fit. When reassembling I will try some grease on it and hope for the best.
Anyway we got it off just now and were waiting on the new woodruff key to come in (hopefully sometime today or tomorrow) to reassemble the rotor try to start it again.
The big nut that holds the gear sprocket is slightly dented (maybe 2mm dent) and caused a little groove in the inner opening on the nut. I sanded it down a bit with 400grit but it still won't quite fit. When reassembling I will try some grease on it and hope for the best.
#36
So ends up the key was smushed by the big nut that holds the gear sprocket in place on the camshaft onto the sprocket. This made the key almost impossible to come off.
Anyway we got it off just now and were waiting on the new woodruff key to come in (hopefully sometime today or tomorrow) to reassemble the rotor try to start it again.
The big nut that holds the gear sprocket is slightly dented (maybe 2mm dent) and caused a little groove in the inner opening on the nut. I sanded it down a bit with 400grit but it still won't quite fit. When reassembling I will try some grease on it and hope for the best.
Anyway we got it off just now and were waiting on the new woodruff key to come in (hopefully sometime today or tomorrow) to reassemble the rotor try to start it again.
The big nut that holds the gear sprocket is slightly dented (maybe 2mm dent) and caused a little groove in the inner opening on the nut. I sanded it down a bit with 400grit but it still won't quite fit. When reassembling I will try some grease on it and hope for the best.
#37
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Thread Starter
Ok so the car starts and idles at 1000. It's a bit questionable idle because it keeps revving up and down ( MAF?) but that's the least of our concerns lol. It seems that the temp gauge has broken along with oil pressure gauge/sending unit but those will be replaced. The main concern is that we ran it for about 15 minutes and there is still a faint white smoke coming from exhaust. Does that mean for sure that the head gasket is bad?
#38
Ok so the car starts and idles at 1000. It's a bit questionable idle because it keeps revving up and down ( MAF?) but that's the least of our concerns lol. It seems that the temp gauge has broken along with oil pressure gauge/sending unit but those will be replaced. The main concern is that we ran it for about 15 minutes and there is still a faint white smoke coming from exhaust. Does that mean for sure that the head gasket is bad?
#39
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Thread Starter
It should not have more problems than it did before you worked on it, if it does there's a 99% chance its something you did. Check all your connections, clamps and vacuum lines for leaks. As for the white smoke, its not necessarily a head gasket. Did it smoke before? An easy check is; with the engine cold run the car for 15 seconds or so then shut it off and remove the coolant reservoir cap. If there is pressure building in the system after seconds of running, it most likely has a bad head gasket. You can do this check with the engine warm but you will need to release the pressure off the system first.
#40
Came back blue or stayed blue? Change the oil when its warm, it will drain better. You could have condensation in the exhaust causing the smoke, it will have to get hot to burn it out. You probably had some unburned fuel in there too from trying to start it without having spark.
#41
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Thread Starter
Came back blue or stayed blue? Change the oil when its warm, it will drain better. You could have condensation in the exhaust causing the smoke, it will have to get hot to burn it out. You probably had some unburned fuel in there too from trying to start it without having spark.
#43
The block test was white or the smoke was white? Why is there only water in the coolant system? If you drained it and filler it with water, did you bleed the system? Air will cause a bad reading. Is the wire on the temp sensor for the gauge?
#45
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Thread Starter
Yes bled the system completely because a hose ended up being bad. And I'm assuming I did it right but to make sure I might drive to an auto parts store and see if they will do it...any common misreadings with this?