Skwerl

I'd like to get some E-code lights because of their supposed superiority to DOT specs, but I also wonder if I could put Superwhite bulbs (because that's what they are, right? Bulbs?) into an E-Code unit and have the benefit of both the whiteness and the E-codeness? Or are they not compatible?

IceShark

They are compatible as long as they are in the H-4 format bulb. You could also go to overwatt bulbs like 80/100 ; 90/100 or 90/130 if you aim the lenses correctly as the sharp cuttoff on E-Code low beam will not bother other drivers.

I would just get regular halogen bulbs if you go overwatt. You will also have to rewire with heavier gauge if you go overwatt.

If you don't want to rewire go with something like the legal wattage Sylvania/Osram XtraVision or the same from other manufacturers.

keith

where can you find the E-Code lamps?

IceShark

Here:
http://www.seriousauto.com/lighting/headlights.htm

ACRRacer

Resuscitating this thread because I have a question... (yes, i actuallly SEARCHED instead of just asking! LOL)

Anyhow, I rode in my Mom's Porsche last night, and the headlights were AWFUL, so I told her I was gonna drip in Cibie's like i have on my Miata. My question is, how high of wattage can i go before I need to rewire the car to take it? I'm running 80/100's in my Miata, (I laughed when i saw the suggestion of where to order them...that's where i got mine) and about to go up to 100/130s. From what I read above, the Miata will take the load of the 130, but the Porsche won't. I don't wanna go 'hyper/super/ricerwhite" bulbs, just halogen.

Will it take an 80/100? On a similar topic, what kind of bulbs do the fogs/drivinglights take? Those are just as bad as the headlights.

Thanks!
-Matt

IceShark

The 944 has no relays in the headlight system and the wiring is fairly light. Along with corrosion from aging and ground strap deterioration you are really stuck with the stock 55/60 bulbs unless you rewire. 100 watt bulbs will probably light up and not burn the car down but the gain isn't worth it due to voltage drop.


I would also try and stay away from the 100/130 bulbs due to the short life. 130 watt usually has a design life on the order of 40 hours for the high beam and the low beam filament that many manufacturers put into 100/130 bulbs are designed for about 100 hours. So, if you rewire and overwatt go with 80/100 or 90/100.

Usually the fogs take H-3s.

ACRRacer

Cool...
So, if i got 55/65 on the H4's, and the same on the fogs, will I overload the wiring or are they already 55w, and just put out NO light for some other reason? They look like the 27watters i've seen in a friend's Neon.

I have a set of 100W H3's here on my desk that are gonna go in one of my cars... but i assume they have the same difficulties as running 100w headlights in a Porsche? If no, they might make it into my mom's car...
Thanks for the input!
-Matt

jason952

I have 55/60 piaa superwhites that came in a kit from vertex auto. They are advertised to have 80/100 output...I am very pleased with the throw and power, as well as the purplish color. No worry about the wiring either.

IceShark

Well, stock headlights in North America are sealed beams somewhere around 55/60 watt depending on the beam that is in there. Some/most of the 944's have bad enough wiring at this point that 55/60 watt bulbs aren't even getting enough voltage to light them up properly. Measuring delivered voltage under load down at the headlight is the only way to figure out where that car stands.

But it is a safe bet that putting in Cibie or Hella Supers and 55/60 H-4s will improve your situation. I've got a lighting kit I'm trying to get off the ground, but haven't gotten enough takers signed on yet. You can search my recent posts and see what I'm talking about if you are interested in getting in on it. I can beat SeriousAuto's prices.

You haven't explained your Mom's car and fog lights enough. If they are standard OEM fog lights, the voltage drop problem will still exist but won't be quite as bad as the fogs usually have a relay installed. And if they are actually fogs you probably don't want to go sticking a 100 watt bulb in there. The housing may not be able to take the heat and a 100 watt bulb usually kicks back so much light backscatter in fog and rain that the light no longer works as a fog light.

ACRRacer

[quote]Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>You haven't explained your Mom's car and fog lights enough. If they are standard OEM fog lights, the voltage drop problem will still exist but won't be quite as bad as the fogs usually have a relay installed. And if they are actually fogs you probably don't want to go sticking a 100 watt bulb in there. The housing may not be able to take the heat and a 100 watt bulb usually kicks back so much light backscatter in fog and rain that the light no longer works as a fog light.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yeah, that was my concern with the 100s as well in the fog/driving lights... i got them for my lights, which are PIAA 510s, and in a metal housing.

Hers are just the stock factory driving lights. Fog was the wrong term, i'm sorry. I haven't looked too close at them, if they're metal-housed and glass-lensed i might drop the 100's in, otherwise i won't sweat them in her car... fresh H3s and 55-65H4's should give us the desired output... ie, VISIBLE. I was riding in her car again tonight, and i couldn't tell if a Honda in front of us was yellow, or white. That was bad.
-Matt

IceShark

PIAA is generally crap or worse, just count on that being true no matter what happens in this world.

If you want to help improve your Mom's lights, you need to do a rewire. I just sent some overwatt bulbs into your exact town, hard to forget that name and spelling. They wouldn't do your Mom much good, though, without a rewire. I'm trying to get enough guys together for a kit on that, BTW. Not enough takers yet, though. Would be a nice gift to her & may save her life. Eyes start going to hell in a handbasket after somewhere around 40 so all the extra light one can get is welcome.

Operator

hey iceshark youre a nutty light guy arent you?

anyway, 2 questions for you that i want you to reply to in a manner that a kindergardener that has no knowledge of automotive lighting systems could understand:

1. what is the best best best headlight upgrade on the 944 without doing a rewire, with only doing a bulb/light replacement (easy right, just unscrew old and screw in new?)

2. two parts
2a. what is the installation procedure for doing 1?
2b. what is the installation procedure for doing a wiring upgrade/replacement like you keep discussing?

thanks IceShark!

btw i dont even feel like my stock 14 year old headlights on my car are even that bad, the dashboard, now thats sad, but the headlights seem to do their job, but youre the boss about this so fire away with your light information.

IceShark

I'm not up on this nutty lingo, the curve ... due to my age. Whatever, you have to REWIRE. Plain and simple. Ask that goof ball driving case, Ahmet, if you don't believe me.

No rewire, the only thing you can do is up to E_Code and standard bulbs or jump to proper HID. HID is about $2000. And they usually rewire also, so no savings there.

I'm trying to do the cheap way that will get you more or less all the way there. I also have an HID deal, but it isn't worth the cost to Rennlisters for the performance.

Operator

have to rewire? why oh why. so could you please explain what the rewiring process involves? im sitting here thinking i have to wade through miles of crazy wires that go through all sorts of strange pieces of metal that i cant find, cant take out, and will end up breaking other things in the process while removing. then i have to rewire and i will do it wrong, or am just simply incapable of doing it right. and then theres the whole money issue.. yeesh.. all for what? so could you explain how its done at least? thank-o!

IceShark

OpSx, This whole rewire kit is supposed to be easy. No cutting of wires, even. Plug and Play. But you do have to get to the Alt, which is a job. Probably 3/4 hour.

It is worth it in the end.