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Diagnose the Butterswagen... Video, clacking or knocking + low oil pressure

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Old 03-04-2013, 09:43 PM
  #16  
Butters944
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Just a standard rebuild is most likely in order as much as I'd love a turbo or LS

Time to figure out my list of "whileyoureinthere"'s for when the engine's out!

I'm looking at the positive: after I rebuild my engine or do what I do, I can actually say I've been EVERYWHERE working on a 944
Old 03-04-2013, 09:47 PM
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Problems for BM?
Old 03-04-2013, 11:54 PM
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Yea Tim probably a rod bearing's bad

Not taking out the whole engine, prob just dropping the pan and such.
Old 03-05-2013, 12:27 AM
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I'll be honest, If I were in the same situation as you're in, I'd pick up a known good engine and put it in.
Changing the engine on this car takes about 4 hours if you work at a reasonable rate with two people.

Once the engine with the bad rod bearing is out, you can work on it at your leisure and have a spare

*note: this is based on the fact that you use your car as a DD and the engines in the USA are so stupidly cheap.
Old 03-05-2013, 01:28 AM
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I'm fine bumming rides of people for a couple weeks. Not worth the bother IMO. If this weren't my senior year of hs it might be a different story, living off at college, but she's fine to sit a couple weeks while I work.

This is perfect timing cause now I'll have a good fixed up engine to take me through college good n strong
Old 03-05-2013, 07:31 AM
  #21  
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If it is a rod bearing, please make sure the crank journal is in good shape (size and surface condition) - otherwise you'll be back in there real soon.
Old 03-05-2013, 01:20 PM
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Have you tried pulling one plug wire at a time to see if there is a change in the knock? Obviously start with #2..
Old 03-16-2013, 07:11 PM
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Replaced the rod bearings... Currently cleaning up for reassembly.

We're worried because we don't see any visual sign of excessive wear on the original bearings... And van the crank journal's in great shape. Actually, everything on the bottom of the engine looks perfect... My oil pickup tube was perfect too.

Old 03-16-2013, 09:50 PM
  #24  
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Update: found out my problem.

My crankshaft seal's oring had failed (because we didn't bother changing crankshaft seal when doing timing belt 2 years ago) (explains my bad oil leak), and when we installed my AC and put new stress on the crankshaft, it backed the crankshaft bolt out which caused the oil pump drive to slip (the washer was grinding against the timing belt sprocket as evidence) causing the erratic and poor oil pressure causing the rod knock at idle.

Fortunately I didn't drive it enough after the knock started, the rod bearings were still in perfectly fine shape, everything under the engine is perfect (still changed the rod bearings anyway).

SO once I get the oil pan back together and replace my crankshaft seal with an o ring, my problem should be solved.

Lesson learned: replace your crankshaft seal/o ring when you do timing belt!

My timing belt area is a mess of oil, can't wait to clean it up.
Old 03-16-2013, 10:29 PM
  #25  
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Pictures of my oily mess




Old 03-17-2013, 12:03 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Butters944
I wish my garage had a refrigerator in it...
Old 03-17-2013, 12:09 AM
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glad you got it figured out.
Old 03-17-2013, 12:33 AM
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Butters,

nice work. you put the youth of America to shame.
Old 03-17-2013, 02:44 AM
  #29  
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Nice going! Glad to hear you didn't tear up your motor.
Old 03-17-2013, 04:59 AM
  #30  
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still waiting on new motor mounts and oil pump drive kit, hopefully she'll be back together in the next week or two, then she SHOULD run like a top without any leaks or knocks.


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