Diagnose the Butterswagen... Video, clacking or knocking + low oil pressure
#16
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Just a standard rebuild is most likely in order as much as I'd love a turbo or LS
Time to figure out my list of "whileyoureinthere"'s for when the engine's out!
I'm looking at the positive: after I rebuild my engine or do what I do, I can actually say I've been EVERYWHERE working on a 944
Time to figure out my list of "whileyoureinthere"'s for when the engine's out!
I'm looking at the positive: after I rebuild my engine or do what I do, I can actually say I've been EVERYWHERE working on a 944
#18
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Yea Tim probably a rod bearing's bad
Not taking out the whole engine, prob just dropping the pan and such.
Not taking out the whole engine, prob just dropping the pan and such.
#19
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I'll be honest, If I were in the same situation as you're in, I'd pick up a known good engine and put it in.
Changing the engine on this car takes about 4 hours if you work at a reasonable rate with two people.
Once the engine with the bad rod bearing is out, you can work on it at your leisure and have a spare
*note: this is based on the fact that you use your car as a DD and the engines in the USA are so stupidly cheap.
Changing the engine on this car takes about 4 hours if you work at a reasonable rate with two people.
Once the engine with the bad rod bearing is out, you can work on it at your leisure and have a spare
*note: this is based on the fact that you use your car as a DD and the engines in the USA are so stupidly cheap.
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I'm fine bumming rides of people for a couple weeks. Not worth the bother IMO. If this weren't my senior year of hs it might be a different story, living off at college, but she's fine to sit a couple weeks while I work.
This is perfect timing cause now I'll have a good fixed up engine to take me through college good n strong
This is perfect timing cause now I'll have a good fixed up engine to take me through college good n strong
#21
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If it is a rod bearing, please make sure the crank journal is in good shape (size and surface condition) - otherwise you'll be back in there real soon.
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Replaced the rod bearings... Currently cleaning up for reassembly.
We're worried because we don't see any visual sign of excessive wear on the original bearings... And van the crank journal's in great shape. Actually, everything on the bottom of the engine looks perfect... My oil pickup tube was perfect too.
We're worried because we don't see any visual sign of excessive wear on the original bearings... And van the crank journal's in great shape. Actually, everything on the bottom of the engine looks perfect... My oil pickup tube was perfect too.
#24
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Update: found out my problem.
My crankshaft seal's oring had failed (because we didn't bother changing crankshaft seal when doing timing belt 2 years ago) (explains my bad oil leak), and when we installed my AC and put new stress on the crankshaft, it backed the crankshaft bolt out which caused the oil pump drive to slip (the washer was grinding against the timing belt sprocket as evidence) causing the erratic and poor oil pressure causing the rod knock at idle.
Fortunately I didn't drive it enough after the knock started, the rod bearings were still in perfectly fine shape, everything under the engine is perfect (still changed the rod bearings anyway).
SO once I get the oil pan back together and replace my crankshaft seal with an o ring, my problem should be solved.
Lesson learned: replace your crankshaft seal/o ring when you do timing belt!
My timing belt area is a mess of oil, can't wait to clean it up.
My crankshaft seal's oring had failed (because we didn't bother changing crankshaft seal when doing timing belt 2 years ago) (explains my bad oil leak), and when we installed my AC and put new stress on the crankshaft, it backed the crankshaft bolt out which caused the oil pump drive to slip (the washer was grinding against the timing belt sprocket as evidence) causing the erratic and poor oil pressure causing the rod knock at idle.
Fortunately I didn't drive it enough after the knock started, the rod bearings were still in perfectly fine shape, everything under the engine is perfect (still changed the rod bearings anyway).
SO once I get the oil pan back together and replace my crankshaft seal with an o ring, my problem should be solved.
Lesson learned: replace your crankshaft seal/o ring when you do timing belt!
My timing belt area is a mess of oil, can't wait to clean it up.
#30
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still waiting on new motor mounts and oil pump drive kit, hopefully she'll be back together in the next week or two, then she SHOULD run like a top without any leaks or knocks.