window moves slow
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
what part do i need to replace when my window moves slow up and down? The motor or the assembly that is below the window?
Is this an easy process?
Judd
Is this an easy process?
Judd
#5
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got into both doors and sprayed some lithium grease into the pivots and track for the drive. It seemed to help a bit, but not dramatic. It seemed that the window was pretty fast without the door panel on, but slower when the squeegee was hitting it. Years ago I had some elmer's spray on teflon lube that worked well for the glass to rubber contact. I was going to get more of something similar to try.
Art
Art
#6
Nordschleife Master
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You probably have 2 problems going on. Binding of the window as noted. An easy help for that is shooting some silicone spray in the fabric lined tracks that guide the glass.
Your electrical system is probably also getting tired and not delivering enough voltage to that motor. Cleaning or replacing your engine and battery grounds as well as the main positive feed between battery and fuse board should help fix that.
Another potential electrical problem for the window is the wires that go through the accordion tube between door and the post. The wires can fracture from flex duty. If yours have just started to break a few strands of the wire, that will cut down on voltage going to the motor.
Your electrical system is probably also getting tired and not delivering enough voltage to that motor. Cleaning or replacing your engine and battery grounds as well as the main positive feed between battery and fuse board should help fix that.
Another potential electrical problem for the window is the wires that go through the accordion tube between door and the post. The wires can fracture from flex duty. If yours have just started to break a few strands of the wire, that will cut down on voltage going to the motor.
Trending Topics
#10
Rennlist Member
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't know how these Porsches are wired, but let me tell you about a similar problem and fix that I had. My driver side window was moving real slow, and if I was breaking, the window would not even move. It turned out to be from a disconnect of the water drain tube under the rear hatch latch, causing water to drip into the rear lights, causing a short. Once this was dried up and reconnected, the driver side window worked perfectly. You might want to see if you have water in your rear tail lights as well !
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
thanks for the replies, when i first had my car one of the problems i fixed was a missing drain hose and water was dripping on my tail light. I will try the silicone spray before I buy a window regulator or other parts. I also will try to clean the connections on my battery, they are quite poor.
Judd
Judd
#12
![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon6.gif)
[quote]Originally posted by judd944:
<strong>what part do i need to replace when my window moves slow up and down? The motor or the assembly that is below the window?
Is this an easy process?
Judd</strong><hr></blockquote>Actually it is probably non of the above. The usual source is the switches. Over time the contacts have become burnt and uneven and the current drop is huge. They are easy enough to take apart and clean. File down the contacts so they are smooth again. New switches can be expensive..
FR Wilk
1984 944
<a href="http://members.tripod.com/944dme" target="_blank">http://members.tripod.com/944dme</a>
<a href="http://members.tripod.com/early944" target="_blank">http://members.tripod.com/early944</a>
8Þ
______________________________________________________
_
<strong>what part do i need to replace when my window moves slow up and down? The motor or the assembly that is below the window?
Is this an easy process?
Judd</strong><hr></blockquote>Actually it is probably non of the above. The usual source is the switches. Over time the contacts have become burnt and uneven and the current drop is huge. They are easy enough to take apart and clean. File down the contacts so they are smooth again. New switches can be expensive..
FR Wilk
1984 944
<a href="http://members.tripod.com/944dme" target="_blank">http://members.tripod.com/944dme</a>
<a href="http://members.tripod.com/early944" target="_blank">http://members.tripod.com/early944</a>
8Þ
______________________________________________________
_
#13
Nordschleife Master
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I suppose it could be the switches, as I have fixed them myself rather than pop the crazy price Porsche wanted, but I would think Judd tried both switches (this is the passenger side) and would have noted a difference.
Also, when the window regulator starts to go you don't get even travel speed, which should be easy to note, and you will hear a "clunk" or pop noise about half way through travel as the leverage of the regulator shifts. Those regulators are kind of expensive and there is no easy way to refurbish them that actually works.
Also, when the window regulator starts to go you don't get even travel speed, which should be easy to note, and you will hear a "clunk" or pop noise about half way through travel as the leverage of the regulator shifts. Those regulators are kind of expensive and there is no easy way to refurbish them that actually works.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)