I must be a crackhead...
02-01-2002, 02:35 AM
#16
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Ribs, do you still need that oilpan baffle? I bought the updated part along with the screws a while ago, but my car had an intact updated baffle already. I paid something like $120 for the baffle and the screws from the dealer, and they wouldn't take it back because it was a special order. Interested?
02-01-2002, 07:27 PM
#18
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[quote]Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>Ribs, you got to get some sleep buddy.
What stuff didn't you understand that I was mentioning?
Anyway, #4 gauge should be ok for you especially if you do the following: The alternator will be handy so go get a variable voltage regulator w/h brushes and crank it up to about 14.3 to 14.4v. If you can't measure it, take the alt into an alt/starter repair shop and have them sell it to you and set. Having the shop sell it and set should cost about $20. This will make a big improvement in your entire electrical system for reasons I won't go into now.
Then when you reinstall your alt you want to punch a hole through the alt cone heat shield and run a #4 wire to the output terminal. Make it long enough to slack over to the side of the engine bay to a handy tie off and then down towards the headlight ground on the frame rail under the headlight buckets. Leave a little extra and cap off the end of that live wire. Later, or now if you have enough time, you can install a headlight, fog and driving light upgrade and all that light load will be off the main electrical system. You will never have low voltage problems again. The whole car will be running at about 13.8 to .9 volts under the worst of conditions. And this will be damn easy to do now.
Also remember to have or replace the cooling duct from the alt cone heat shield that runs up to a little air scoop in the bumper. It is 60mm diameter hose, and cheap. Clamp the hose on the cone end before you reinstall because it is a real bitch to clamp on if the cone and alt are in place unless you have a half inch long screwdriver and hands the size of a newborn. </strong><hr></blockquote>
I am definitely going to give that some consideration. Thanks for the advise...I may e-mail you for more details about it. The stock electrical system is bad in my car...the water temp gauge dances to the music and gets higher and higher when more electrical load is put on the car (rear defroster used to be the worst, but that broke, so I will try to fix that too).
[quote]Originally posted by Steve Lavigne:
<strong>Ribs, do you still need that oilpan baffle? I bought the updated part along with the screws a while ago, but my car had an intact updated baffle already. I paid something like $120 for the baffle and the screws from the dealer, and they wouldn't take it back because it was a special order. Interested?</strong><hr></blockquote>
No, but thanks anyways...I got it in yetsterday, and I paid $35 for it from parts heaven. Looks almost brand new. I didn't know it was made of plastic...cool stuff.
<strong>Ribs, you got to get some sleep buddy.
What stuff didn't you understand that I was mentioning?
Anyway, #4 gauge should be ok for you especially if you do the following: The alternator will be handy so go get a variable voltage regulator w/h brushes and crank it up to about 14.3 to 14.4v. If you can't measure it, take the alt into an alt/starter repair shop and have them sell it to you and set. Having the shop sell it and set should cost about $20. This will make a big improvement in your entire electrical system for reasons I won't go into now.
Then when you reinstall your alt you want to punch a hole through the alt cone heat shield and run a #4 wire to the output terminal. Make it long enough to slack over to the side of the engine bay to a handy tie off and then down towards the headlight ground on the frame rail under the headlight buckets. Leave a little extra and cap off the end of that live wire. Later, or now if you have enough time, you can install a headlight, fog and driving light upgrade and all that light load will be off the main electrical system. You will never have low voltage problems again. The whole car will be running at about 13.8 to .9 volts under the worst of conditions. And this will be damn easy to do now.
Also remember to have or replace the cooling duct from the alt cone heat shield that runs up to a little air scoop in the bumper. It is 60mm diameter hose, and cheap. Clamp the hose on the cone end before you reinstall because it is a real bitch to clamp on if the cone and alt are in place unless you have a half inch long screwdriver and hands the size of a newborn.
</strong><hr></blockquote>I am definitely going to give that some consideration. Thanks for the advise...I may e-mail you for more details about it. The stock electrical system is bad in my car...the water temp gauge dances to the music and gets higher and higher when more electrical load is put on the car (rear defroster used to be the worst, but that broke, so I will try to fix that too).
[quote]Originally posted by Steve Lavigne:
<strong>Ribs, do you still need that oilpan baffle? I bought the updated part along with the screws a while ago, but my car had an intact updated baffle already. I paid something like $120 for the baffle and the screws from the dealer, and they wouldn't take it back because it was a special order. Interested?</strong><hr></blockquote>
No, but thanks anyways...I got it in yetsterday, and I paid $35 for it from parts heaven. Looks almost brand new. I didn't know it was made of plastic...cool stuff.
