VeroWing

I suspect you are spot on with your assessment of which paint type to use, but since I have the product already I'm going to give it a go. Appreciate the explanation of paint blending techniques. I spent today prepping hood and garage , and will apply paint tomorrow. I'm hoping the paint gods will give me a "beginners luck pass" and let it turn out well. Wish me luck, and I'll let you know how it turns out. Mike

951and944S

No problem Mike, glad to help if you get something out of it.

A couple of last minute tips,

Don't worry about wet glossy finish on your first coat (or two)...you are building a finish, not trying to make every coat look like a magazine cover car....only the last one.

Be a robot, choose your starting point and keep the gun the same distance, speed and angle in relation to the piece.

If your gun is relatively close on settings, the aforementioned first two points are your adjustments.....don't freak out and stop once started, speed up the gun travel speed or back away in distance if you are way over on the fluid delivery.

Be patient....this should have been #1 because it can ruin your job even if you are satisfied with your technique and the first coat.

Don't pace around the hood and spray again too soon....here's why,

This material is catalyzed and also dries evaporatively....this is called "flash".

There is a recommended time between coats, usually 20-30 minutes.

You will want to instinctively rush things to see the final product but don't.

If you lay another wet coat on the first before the term of "flash time" has passed, you trap the vapors trying to escape the first coat by sealing them in and you will experience a condition called "solvent pop" where even though covered....the first coat WILL escape vapors in the only direction they can......UP and OUT.

This will cause thousands of little needle sized dots in your finish and there's no way to stop it and no way to sand them out in a repair/buff fix, they vill be all the way to the original dry base.

Take care and good luck,

Post back here if you need to and I'll check in the morning to see if you have any last minute questions.

T

VeroWing

Great info, thanks again T. I'll be heeding advice I got here.

VeroWing

Well, it appears the paint gods were angry at me today. First was very streaky with metallic bunching up. second coat reduced product volume quite a bit and much better results, and was actually acceptable. decided a third coat with even less volume could only improve job. Ended up reaching towards center of hood with too much paint in cup at angle and got a big drip in center of hood. Waiting til tomorrow to see what I'm going to do.

ernie9468

Stop loosing your monet & time,prep it again and get it paint by a body shop

951and944S

Bummer.

Cards were stacked against you from the get go though.

Herein lies the problem I mentioned earlier......, you really can't go back now and sand with fine grit paper now and buff the hood.

You'll end up blocking down to the metallic and have the whole surface a sea of flakes...., which if not bad enough already, are now exposed and not even suspended in the paint formula anymore.

This is why I never use SS paints that aren't solid colors.

So....wait 2-3 days, buzz that junk off with 400 grit, and get ready with the base coat.

T

951and944S

The $50-$75 lesson learned pay off can be mega if he can master the craft.

My son and I both race PCA/NASA and a local series...., combined with normal street incidents I have fixed, I'm probably $20-$30,000 to the good at present.

I started and helped on this one but my son finished this one up all by himself....., car was valued at $10.5k by PCNA and was bought back from insurance company for $500, a net +$10k

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ll-almost.html

T

VeroWing

All in all I learned a lot, and I'm determined to do this myself. Actually, I'm looking at it as a partial success, since it looks slightly better than the faded paint I started with. Next time with right paint should be a breeze!