VeroWing

Can someone tell me the original type of paint used on my 1987 944s? The paint on my hood is faded and I want to get correct paint and respray just the hood. The rest of paint is still nice and shiny. I've been told that you shouldn't spray certain types of paint over some other types without bad results and I want to avoid this. Appreciate any advice on this.

Cole

Why not seat sand and polish it?

This will give you an idea of the condition of the paint when I bought the car!



Same paint! Just wet sanded and polished.

VeroWing

It's hard to see in this pic Cole, but PO must have spilled something on hood, or tried cleaning or polishing it will something that left stains in finish. I tried polishes, and even buffing with polishing compound, and one spot with rubbing compound and stain will not come out. You can actually see where whatever solvent was used left areas and drop marks in paint.

Cole

Might as well try sanding it first, worst case you are back you painting it.

The point of sanding it to take the top layer of paint off just a touch to get rid of the imprecations, then polish it back to life with finer and finer grit paper and eventually polishing compounds.

If the spill did not actually remove the paint from the metal you can "probably" sand out the imprecations.

Liquid polishing compounds are usually just a very fine grit version of what you find in sand paper. The problem with them in your case is that they may just not be aggressive enough to actually remove material. You may need to start with something like 1500 grit paper or more, clear down to something like 600 (all wet sanding of course) and work your way back up to 3000 and then on to the polishing compounds after that.

I'm not an expert by any means by you can see that it can make a remarkable difference.

VeroWing

I very lightly tried a small area with 1500 paper and it didn't remove discolored stuff. It really appears to be something that is deep in paint, but you're right that I don't have much to lose by sanding. Do you know what the original type of paint was on these cars?

VeroWing

Just went out and wet sanded area with 1500 and went down to primer, and so did stain, so I'm going to have to paint it . Still need to know what paint I can go over this with.

ernie9468

Your paint code # is all you need to get the rigth paint mixe up.

VeroWing

Thanks Ernie. That's what I was thinking, but ;ocal paint supplier ask me what the original paint is and I told them I would check. I just removed gas filler lid and will take it with me and show them and let them figure it out. Thanks, Mike.

cretinx

have you considered a vinyl wrap?

VeroWing

Not really, don't know much about them Went today and bought acrylic enamel as recommended by supplier. I'll find out soon if it matches up well.

951and944S

By "kind", what they need to know is if it's base/clear or single stage.

Your color is a base coat with clear coat over that.

Solid colors like White, Black and Guard's red are single stage enamels, replicated today with better quality single stage urethane.....still, no clear coat.

The pic above of the red 944 even in as bad a shape as it looked, could have been polished out....but the hood on the same car had been painted with a base/clear and that's why it could never be brought back without a respray.

Original paint supplier would have been Glasurit or Spies Hecker if I remember correctly.

Glasurit, RM, Limco, all of these companies are now owned by BASF and are all good quality.

You don't need to find DuPont or PPG.

BTW, you can sand with 4-600 grit paper before painting....1500 is for sanding defects before final polishing.

T

Gator996

Your hood had a classic case of clear coat failure. I deal with that all the time in my detailing business. Only solution is a respray.

951and944S

Yup, and now he's got the wrong paint.

The color can be mixed and even sprayed in single stage but was originally B/C.

That color has some pearl powder in the mix.

I used to mix Dupont and RM paints.

You even need a gun capable of killer atomization so the base doesn't look cloudy and streaky before you clear.

To the OP, the reason these paints are not generally sprayed in single stage is, the paint mix, when still liquid, suspends metallic, pearls, etc.

You will be spraying all of this on and some metallic will naturally be right at the surface, leaving no chance to correct defects, or really wet sand to final polish because you will have metallic particles exposed.

The paints dry way slower than simple air dry base coats because they dry by introducing a catalyst where base coat paint is just evaporative.

You can succeed with what you have but your coats will have to be a perfect wet finish.

Better off going back and getting the B/C and a quart of clear.

T

VeroWing

Supplier mixed paint for me, so exchanging probably isn't an option, but it wasn't much money so I'm going to give it a go and see how it comes out. If it doesn't look near perfect I'll do the bc/cc. One thing when I tried wet sanding with 1500 earlier today, I had color coming off immediately upon sanding, like there was no clear coat at all. I appreciate the info, thanks.

951and944S

Sure, no sweat.

Could turn out nice, maybe not, as long as your expectations are reasonable, you'll be alright.

Reason you saw color is either because your clearcoat is that bad off or somebody sprayed the hood with single stage paint once before.

What a shop will usually do is blend a color like what you have there onto the next panel to make it match.

You'd prep the hood for a complete respray and then sand the fenders with much finer paper, 1000-1200.

As you spray the hood, you would overlap a light coat onto the fender for 6 inches or so making your natural motion carry the gun tip farther from the panel at the end of your stroke.

Then....clearcoat the complete hood and both fenders.....this creates an illusion that the new color is spot on with the fenders because it "blends" instead of having an abrupt change from hood to fender as when you mask off a hood or other panel and paint one sole piece.

Also....sometimes you will only get a direct match if you paint colors on top of a certain color base, a "sealer....hard to explain, but differing shade bases under the paint have a background effect in exiting the color to look a certain shade.

Every color has a specific "base" shade, from white, gray to black and mediums in between by mixing the three main sealer colors.

This is why you see 10 944s at a car gathering and there are 6 different shades of Guard's red from correct, all the way to tomato red...

My opinion...you are making a mistake...if you are not satisfied, you will have the removal of this SS paint to worry about later, and if you leave it and spray correct material on it later....the mil thickness will make the hood prone to chipping.

T